Try adjusting pressure, and make sure it's thin enough.

In my very limited experience, this sounds like either not enough pressure, or too thick paint, or a combination of both.

Hello From England!!!

I've been coming back to this thread for a few days now and trying to find a solution to my problem...there are a fair few pages so I'm sorry If I'm repeating what others have asked.

I want to paint my van Flat Black, and I don't want to spray it. What would be the best way to do this? I can get Rustoleum over here, is this the best thing to use?

can I roll on Flat Black? is it easier or harder?

Do I have to thin the paint or can I just bang it right on? (I'm quite lazy)

I don't really want an amazing finish, I just want like an army finish, something that isnt gonna fall off my van: flat black quick and easy.

Cheers Chaps!
Adam.

First welcome to the board we have a few member from England.
I used Rustoleums rusty metal primer in the bed of my truck straight out of the can and the coverage was great, don't see a problem using flat but make sure its for metal and outdoors usage. I'd try a test piece to see if it needs much thinning.
BTW I used the foam rollers.
Good luck

Hello, thanks for the welcome.
That's good to hear, people are always like "what you want to paint your van Matt Black?"

I'm looking for the rough and ready look, the army do everything matt and mad max got away with it didn't he?

I'm just going to scuff up the bodywork and go to work, I'm having a bit of a problem figuring out which paint is which between the Professional stuff and the combi colour. and which thinners to use with which, Ill post you pictures when I finally get round to figuring what I'm supposed to be doing.

First thanks guys i thinned it about 50% and it works alot better. I sprayed single stage that came out glass smooth also, but that has a chart.

Second i painted my scamp with flat black regular rustoleum. I thinned with minerial spirits. It doesn't come off on your hands or anything, and it was dry with in minutes.

Steve

Nice work guys !

Hi all, it's been a while since I have posted on this thread. I have not painted my car yet, as I am still doing body work. It's a 1948 Chrys Coupe, and believe me it needed lots of bodywork and it still does at this point. But as I soon as I finish, I plan on painting it Tremclad Colonial Blue as per Chargers Method.
About a year ago I did some test pieces, one was a rusty old mopar metal dash, I just sanded and scuffed it up and proceeded to paint it with Tremclad Wild Raspberry, using the roller method as per this thread. The results were very good, I ended up rolling on 7 coats of thinnned Tremclad with the wet sanding between every second coat, with 1000 and finally with 2000. I then used Turtle Wax polishing compound, just with a cloth and my bare hands , the results were very good once again with a decent shine, no orange peel, just a little swirl in the paint. The paint dried hard and was very resistant to scratching, I definately could not scratch it with my finger nails and I have big hands.
Fast forward one year, this test piece has been in my shed for almost one year, it has been knocked around and collecting dust. I polished it today by hand with Turtle Wax polishing compound,it shined up very nicely. So this enamel can be re-worked as Charger has documented. The interesting thing is I did a scratch test, no way could I get my finger nails to dig in, the test piece was as hard as rock, I used plastic and wood to try and scrape it, it only marred the surface slightly as I was pushing very hard on the test piece, I used a sharp metal object and of course it would lay a scratch into the paint, but it would have on any painted surface.
The other thing I have been doing is a test piece with Tremclad Colonial Blue, in a rattle can. This is for my door jambs and other hard to reach areas, and I wanted to paint a test piece and see what I think of the color on my car. I sprayed the back of a piece of laminate flooring , " not sure why, it was handy when I walked in with the paint". Less than 24 hours later this paint is rock hard, I tired but was not successful in digging my finger nails into the paint, it was rock hard already, I am not saying it's fully cured but rock hard. This paint is fantastic and it has other good uses where you would use POR 15 paint the Tremclad is very similar in it's chemical composition.I can hardly wait to do the Coupe.
As Charger and Marq, have both mentioned , a lot of us guys on this forum have little or no autobody and paint experience, so doing body work and using fillers and a hammer and dlly is a brand new challenge, not sure what to expect, will try my best and hopefully it works out, cause I am defintately a candida te for a "Paint Job On A Budget guy"

Heres a pic of my beast I want paint tremclad Colonial Blue, as soon as I finish the body work.

I am also thinking about the Colonial blue colour. Have you already bought the paint, could you post a picture of what it looks like under natural light?

I will have some pics of my test piece using tremclad colonial blue real soon. I have just finished the 6th coat, it looks good so far...................the coupe

Here is pic of Colonial Blue Tremclad on a small piece of sheet metal, no prep was done as it was a bare piece of 18 g tin. This is with 6 coats of paint, it was sanded after the 2nd and forth coats with 1000 wet/dry, I will wet sand it with 2000 next, then polish with Turtle Wax Polish, it will be like glass after that. There is minimal orange peel, but there is some dust, I did this in the basement at home, rather than heating up my shop just for a test piece, so there is dust in the air in the house. But I do like the color, I think it will suit my 48 Chyrs Coupe, I think this is a good color for a less than perfect body, ie waves, amateur bodywork,imperfections etc.. Funny thing this paint is as hard as a rock already, but I did not test it yet for hardness and adhesion, but it does not scratch right off and is sticking to the test piece real well.................. The Coupe

so i am done with the paint and i do have some dirt in the paint. so i took a paint planer and got the dirt out and it left spots in the paint from the dirt. i use the finishing material and buffed most of it out. so i want to clear the paint and want to know if the spots will show throught the paint.

Last night I was watching "Classic Car Restoration" on DIY network; they were restoring a 1962 T-Bird. Anyway, they were planning to colorsand and polish the original paint. Before they did so they did some tests on a couple of fenders that had been painted more recently.

Kevin Tetz did a demonstration to ascertain whether the paint on the fenders had hardened sufficiently to polish. His simple test was to put some solvent on a clean white cloth and lightly rub it across the surface of the paint. If the rag came up with color on it that indicated that the paint had not hardened, if it came up clean (i.e. the solvent wasn't able to cause the paint to get wet again).

This technique may be useful for determining when our roller jobs using Rustoleum are ready for polishing. I guess we'd use mineral spirits as a solvent.

Anyone else ever heard of this?

I think I have read this post from the beginning over the last few months. Its perhaps the greatest thread on DIY I have ever seen, and for sure its the longest. I haven't tried it yet, but I am planning on posting my pics when I do.

A lot of guys seem to be worried about getting a little orange peel, which has to be polished out. I know charger has told everyone that it will polish and wet sand out, and it seems to be part of the process. That said, I found this link interesting. This is a spray painted fender before color sanding (wet sanding and polishing). It doesn't look any better to me in the raw state than what many of you are achieving.

Orange Peel

anyone make f4 green paint?

Well, I had to give up the garage to let the wife drive her GN. Mine is now parked out in the weather. I still need to finish trim installation and the new interior in. Probably in a few months when I get laid off

This car is a driver like Charger's, but I do not have enough room to keep it inside after

My brother brought his friend over who could not believe it was the same car.

Now my wife wants me to paint her GN and the Vista Cruiser. Maybe the Bronco will be next.

Got a question for you guys: Is it normal for the paintjob to feel smoother but look worse in areas after wetsanding? Is this supposed to change in the polishing stage? Thinking of polishing with Poorboy's or Meguires like Aussie.

This is what I'm working on, 1 coat of Brightside, no wetsanding.



Thanks for any advice

-- Johnny