I had my 69RR aligned today and it was not pretty. The best caster they could get was -1.2 on the Drivers side and +1.2 on the passenger side. Quite a bit under the +3 to +5 that everyone suggests. I went online and see that there are different offset bolts available.
My thought is to get a +2.5 for the left UCA and then the best reading I can get is +1.25 both left and right side.

Do I understand correctly?
Any better idea for stock UCA's?
Is +2.5 the biggest?

IMO, something is bent if you can't, at least, get matching positive numbers on both sides.

That said, offset bushings are what is typically used to gain some caster, but I believe there is another underlying issue here.

Installing bushings does require removing the UCA from the car and pressing them in/out.

https://www.manciniracing.com/trwmoofupcoa.html

Car is mostly put back together and the UCA's are coated. It is likely the arms are not original but I am looking for the simplest "fix" without tearing into the car again.

Frame work is not an option. Also no damage found during restoration.
Bushings are new but could be replaced again.
Bolts are the easiest to replace at this point.

No. The problem with the driver's side is a problem with the driver's side. Its caster has nothing to do with the passenger side caster.

It could be effected by ride height. (and if the car is running super stock leaf packs its going to be a little more difficult. )
First thing to set is the ride hieght per shop manual. You can set it on the low side of the specs or even a little under. Lower will gain some positive caster, just like it does when the suspension compresses.
Then set the camber,
Then the caster,
repeat if needed.
Finally, set the toe.

How were the strut rods setup?

Leaf springs are from a low mileage 69 GTX that had a Dana and a 4speed. Rebuilt and installed with a new shim pack. The torsion bars are aftermarket and may already be a bit low because of the low profile tires. I am looking to raise the front up to almost level the rocker panels. The lower bumpers are very close to the the pads.

This is what my question is about.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/suspe...0039=Show%20All

This leads me to believe that I should get the +-2.5 for both sides and just match up the lowest number I get from the both sides during adjustment.
Struts are stock with new rubber bushings and even the roll pins in the low mileage struts.

the cam bolts won't help
make sure the strut rod on that side is seated correctly and the k-frame isn't smooshed in where the strut rod seats.

The SS springs are special with two different static arches. Yours should be fine.

Set it per the shop manual, not body hieght. If you want to lower it from there, fine, but use the factory measurement method. Body panels aren't accurate and the wheel and tire diameters change the number, etc.
If you run it with lower ride height, trim the contact bumper. keep the shape as much as possible.


I see. Those seem to be a claim on the amount of movement available for adjustment. The implication from the parts description is that the car has 0 caster in the middle of the slots - which isn't neccessarily true at all. So those misleading descriptions.

Agreed. The factory cams are already set as far out as they can be on the eccentric, but they don't describe them by degrees. so this description creates a perceptions of improvement without actually changing the design. Kinda of like Charmin is the only squeezably soft bum wipe.

First, no Mopar can get +3 to 5+ caster like you think with the stock cam-bolts.
You need the Moog offset-bushings like mentioned by GoodyGotaCuda.

Is no one else thinking here he just had a clueless shopclown do the alignment on his car ending up with those numbers?

I would like to see some pics first of how the cam bolts are positioned currently.

Whats the Camber Left and Right?

Wondering if the drivers side has longer A-body LCA and the shop ate up all the Caster adjustment bringing it back in spec. An A-body is a good 1/2" longer than a B-Body but otherwise looks identical.

Not identical if you know what they look like. The B body units have a curved bottom, the A body ones are flat along the center.

Haven't had any A-Body parts that could have mixed with my B-Body parts.

The camber is adjusted with the rear cam however it's geometric position is controlled by the strut rod.

SS springs do not belong on a handling car
use 2 right sides or 2 left sides or better yet espo springs

Without pics this thread is useless

How high is the back of the car? Raising the back of the car pushes caster negative

Did you measure precisely the center to center distance from wheel to wheel right and left side? Is it the same?

Ride is NOT set by the fsm -where have you all been the last 20 years?
Tape measure

Adjustable strut rods do wonder for the ride and handling and allow for proper caster settings

So? Does Not have to be anything YOU did.

Again What is the Camber on the both sides?

I did not get a print out and they just got it as close as they could with plans to fix it later. Looks like I will be replacing the upper bushings to offset ones and see where it goes from there.