Re: Daytona hidden headlight spring question
[Re: pullandrag]
#2591664
12/14/18 04:31 AM
12/14/18 04:31 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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I inherited the job of finishing a Charger Daytona most everything's done but beings I did not take this apart and have no experience with these headlights does vacuum pull it shut and raise it open and how are they open in default? the real question is how do I clock the springs on the back side before I put them to the bracket and bolt them down I honestly don't think I'm supposed to wind them springs up till it opens the headlights that seems pretty extreme so I just need somebody to school me on how that works thank you very much! As of right now I have the springs and clips on there and the bracket that holds the spring in the headlight doors are down I'm sure the answer is fairly simple but like I said I hate being into somebody else's project but it is what it is. Vacuum holds the doors down/closed, and also raises/opens them, the "safety" springs located inboard on each light bucket/pivot shaft, were intended for emergency use to raise the lights, should the vacuum system fail in anyway, shape or form, the factory instructions were to disconnect the 2 harness lines located atop the radiator yoke, by disconnecting the 2 lines from the pressed in inline connectors/unions, this would release any residual vacuum left in the forward light harness/pods, and allow the springs to open the lights, which it did, although not a very practical system, it was enough to perhaps offer some light for emergency night time driving... The springs are often the cause for these cars having the "lazy eve" syndrome when parked, as any leak in the vacuum system will cause one or both headlights to slowly creep open, most owners disconnect or remove the safety springs... to install the safety spring correctly, leave the headlight door in the closed position, install the spring,looking directly at the pivot shaft's end, the keyed slot that accepts the spring should be facing slightly reward towards the rear of the vehicle (2 o'clock position if looking at passenger side, 10 o'clock if looking at driver's side)install each inboard spring with it's curled tail end upwards and both tail ends (drivers/pass) facing the rear of the vehicle, you need to remove the bolt/nut and angle iron bracket that tensions/retains the spring's tail end, invert the bracket, hang it on the tail hook of the spring (like you would hang a decoration on a Christmas tree)now carefully wind the spring clockwise on the passenger side, and counter clockwise on the drivers side(looking at the pivot shaft end) by using the angle iron bracket to tension the spring, it only takes one revolution, it takes a little effort as your now lifting the head light door, once you have wound the spring tight, if you hung the angle iron bracket in the right orientation, it should now line up with the hole you removed the bolt/nut that retain this bracket, install nut/bolt and tighten bracket, your done, the light should be in the open position... here's a few pics to help you... Mike
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Re: Daytona hidden headlight spring question
[Re: pullandrag]
#2592203
12/15/18 05:30 AM
12/15/18 05:30 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
|
Also do you have a good vac routing for the three hoses the guy isn't buying the ones for it with the yellow stripe,also read about a check valve in the lines somewhere thanks man The only "check valve" in the system would be the internal check inside the reserve canister located under the battery tray to let the can hold vacuum, I know the vacuum system can appear daunting with all the lines, I have no diagram (I'll see what I can do), but perhaps I can help identify the lines/function for you, lay out the harness, the larger diameter line (there's only one large diameter hose in the whole system) that goes to the engine manifold vacuum/fitting travels along the harness on the drivers side inner fender goes to the large port on the vacuum reserve canister under the battery tray, this is the main source to create vacuum in the reserve canister, the small diameter line that's mated to the large diameter vacuum reserve hose goes back to the dash switch to supply vacuum, the 2 other small diameter hoses mated to the switch vacuum supply line, are the vacuum feeds back out to the nose cone, these 2 lines are the lines draped over the radiator support that have the connecting unions mentioned/shown earlier in the tread, the lines then connect to the nosecone/light bucket/pods, the light pods have 2 systems, up and down harnesses, the light activator pod ports located inside the buckets are the "up" ports, the rear pod ports on the canisters are the "down" ports, the front ports on the canisters (inside the buckets) are just "tee'd" together, the rear ports of the canisters are "tee'd" together, this way you only have one line for up activation, and one line for down activation, these lines are now connected to the previously mention emergency/unions/connectors located on the radiator apron support, if for some reason after you get everything hooked up, and the lights come up in the switch down position, and down in the switch on position, just reverse/re connect/swap the 2 lines at the radiator yoke/support connectors/unions... I'm assuming you have a repro harness?, some of the repros have the molded rubber block connector for the dash switch with 3 lines molded into it (supply/up and down function), it can only go on one way, some of the repros only have 3 lines and no molded connector for the switch, but should have the vacuum supply hose/postion for the switch marked, the other 2 up/down hoses can be supplied to either remaining port of the switch, and position operation of the switch can be determined later by swapping the hoses at the radiator support/yoke connectors/unions.... hope this helps? Mike
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