I think it might. My '65 Coronet 60's 1.89 on Radial T/A's with a 3.23 and 22-2400 stall converter. Stock '70 440-6, resto cam, 727. Runs 13.70's on the radials. I have been 13.29 @ 102 with Hoosier Quick Time Pro's, 60's are 1.82 with the QTP's. Car weighs 3765 with me in it.

I am running stock leaves with the front segments clamped, basic over the counter truck shocks in the rear, and no snubber. The 13.29 was run with worn out front torsion bars for what it's worth, they have since been replaced.

Maybe, find out
AKA aside, they should help as long as there is room for improvement, I've seen .03 ET improvement on one of my old race cars by adding the clamps. Made the car look better, even front travel on both sides, on the hit all the way through low gear also
Make sure all the normal race weight is on the springs when you tighten the clamps

Thanks Cab, solid advice as usual. I'll try it.

When chasing et make sure you just barely get into the stage light. I seen .01 from deep staging to barely getting the stage bulb to light. This was on back to back passes.

Are you still leaving at idle? Have you tried loading the converter and just rolling into it. If you are spinning at the hit this could help. this seems counterintuitive but I run half the rear tire and if I don’t load the converter it flashes too high and snaps the tire loose at the hit. The stall rpm is different than the flash rpm. I load it enough that the car launches but doesn’t blow the tire off. I have a 9.5” ptc converter that flashes to about 3500 my best 60’ is 1.71 have someone with an iphone slowmo video the launch and just pay attention to the little things. Don’t spin the tires while sitting in the water. It slings water up in the wheel house to rain down on the tire. Pull around the water and back into it. When you pull out of the water avoid the puddles that collect in the ruts right in front of the water box. Offset left or right to stay out of them. The tire is not your limiting factor at this time.

I do roll through the water.. maybe I'll try going around next time. On my best passes I've been loading the converter to about 1,500 rpm then rolling into it. I could probably push the rpm higher ?? I'll just have to experiment. Good info tho fuzzy. Thanks!

You can drive through the water instead of going around and then backing into and out of it, just don't spin the tires in the water I drive through and don't spin the tires in the water box anymore, I'll pull up a tiny bit in front of the waters edge and then do my burn outs.
You can also try limiting or increasing the burn out time to help hook the car up on the starting line also, lots of things to test