Hey guy's looking for carb recommendations for my 72' Challenger. It's got a 71' 440 block bored 30 over, stroked(4.25) out to 505", redline about 6,500 rpm, 440 EZ-1 Indy Aluminum Heads, Max Wedge Intake, mechanical fuel pump, full reverse manual valve body 727 trans, Dana 60 with 355 gears, TTI headers going into a full 3" exhaust.
Car will be street driven with very little trips to the track planned. Holley tech recommended a 850 Street HP (link below).
What would you run????

Holley link:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/hp/street_hp/parts/0-82851SA

That carb would probably work fine. If it was my car I'd put a Sniper EFI kit on there. You'll be better off in the long run with EFI for a street car.

I like that choice of carburetor too

hi
holley 3916

best carb ever !

I would go with at least an 850 but an annular carb might work better with that 3.54 gear

Gus

Okay, you're running high flowing heads, high flowing intake, high flowing exhaust, 505 cubes. Why restrict everything with that 850 carb? I'd be looking for a 1050 Holley for that beast or that 3916 three barrel as stated above.

Cam?

Converter stall?

Sounds to me like the emphasis should be on drivability, not peak HP potential.

No such thing...

I have almost the identical combo and run a Demon 850 Speed Demon.

Most people initially think the car has some sort of fuel injection because it starts instantly, never loads up in traffic and puts up good numbers.

I could not be happier with a carb and used to run all Holleys.

1050 Dom.

Food for thought:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/fuel/9.html

In my experience, an 850 would be a cork in that combo. My 500 was a bit milder than your combo and I started with an 850. Tried a 950 and went faster. Tried a 1050 Dominator and went faster still.

I also have a 1050 on my 540 Hemi. Both combos were primarily street.

Thumper can put a 1050 together for you that will rival any self tuning throttle body EFI. And certainly will start, run, and drive better than any OOTB carb, whether it is a 4150 or 4500 platform.

A Thumper carb will cost more than a generic carb, but a lot less than an EFI set-up and with fewer mods to the rest of the fuel system.

Did you use an adapter or change intakes when you went from 4150 to 4500?

Really? You're suggesting the guy put a Dominator carb on a street car? That seems like a bad idea, the guy clearly isn't building a race car and he doesn't have a 4500 intake.

Lack of hood clearance has kept me from trying an adapter. I have used Dominator flanged intakes and I have modified 4150 intakes to accept the 4500.

The 4500 mod is simple. Just thread aluminum bolts into the original bolt holes. Cut them flush and then drill and tap the new bolt holes. A little plenum massage is all that is left to do.

This isn't the race forum, why are you guys trying to turn everything into a race car?

BAD IDEA?!?!?!? Have you read any of the posts on here and elsewhere from happy Thumper customers? Many, many happy street cars running his Dominators. Including mine.

Why don't you try one Andy, and see for yourself?

The OP's combo is not particularly mild. He will run out of carb long before his anticipated 6,500RPM peak with a 4150. Why have what he has under the carb and then plug it up with too small a carb?

I've been driving 500 inch strokers on the street for the past 20 years and have used a bunch of different carbs. EFI works the best and I have no intention of every using a carb again now that I've switched, but if you aren't ready to switch to EFI then pick a carb based on your cam.

A smaller cam will let you run a street type carb such as an Edelbrock 800 or one of the less expensive Holley models. A performance cam will probably require a more expensive Holley carb with the extra tuning capability. A 750 high flow type of carb works great on the street. Holley used to sell them as 950 HP carbs.

If you have a performance cam and want a good carb with adjustment capability then contact BradH who posted above. He has a lot of experience with those types of carbs and he has a few of them for sale in the race section.

IDK fellas. Street driven w/3.55’s no matter what is upstairs is a car with long legs.
How often is the car running above 4500 @ WOT? The OP even said he is driving the street.
I believe the 850 would be a good compromise and still yet deliver.
You all can bla bla bla about what is being left on the table but I don’t see the OP chasing max power and every last pony possible.

See my thinking is that if you build a big block Stroker engine you want it to run great or why not just build a stock stroke engine to cruise around. Would an 850 work, heck ya but so would a 750. As far as fuel injection man have I heard some nightmare tuning stories getting them set up right. We all can’t afford taking to to someone’s dyno and paying them to set it up for us only to have it run different in the car.

He doesn't need an intake for a 4500, here's a pic of a 1050 that's not a 4500 and will bolt right on his intake.

Reality check here: You cannot compare a 1.58" v x 1.75" t 4150 "1050" with a 1.72" v x 2.0" t 4500 "1050". Doesn't matter what the carb company labels it, it's not an apples-to-apples comparison.

And, yes, I have something like that, too, and it was good enough to make about 680 HP w/ my stock-stroke 440 build.

< Since I think these answers are still critical to the discussion >

And I agree w/ some other posters above in that it sure doesn't sound like the guy's trying to build a race car. He may have picked some "racy" parts, but that doesn't mean it's what he's expecting the car to be.

Thanks for all the responses guys! To be honest my head is spinning right now, LOL! The guy who built the engine for me, although he is Mopar to the bone it doesn't help with his organization skills. He can't seem to find the cam card so he's contacting Indy Cylinder head for help. He should hopefully have the cam card info by Wednesday for all the guys who asked what cam is in the motor. He also built the trans and said it's a 9 1/2" converter with 3K stall. Once again thanks for the suggestions guys!!!

The right foot controls the gas peddle, correct
My point is you will control how much air the motor sees when driving, the only time you can have a carb. that is to small is at wide open throttle
I would, and do, buy the biggest carb that I think I might need in a speed contest at the track or on the roads trying tp pass someone

I agree with Cab. So why buy a carb that is smaller than the rest of the build?

And there seems to be an implication that a 4500 carb is more of a 'Race' carb. While a 4150 is a 'street' carb. I don't see it that way. The carb should be sized to the needs of the combo and the tune should be for the combo.

Sized right and tuned right, I don't see any preference for a 4500 vs a 4150. It's just how much air the combo wants/needs. A 505" BBM with Max Wedge ports and 6,500RPM potential will need MORE air than most 4150s can supply. Certainly more than an 850.

And tuned properly, they will both have the same street manners.

IMO, the OP needs to provide a clearer explanation of what his street AND track expectations are for his build. It's really too vague at this point.

Roll with it, guys... nothing else I can add to this discussion.

Go EFI and be done with it.
OK - I'll go away now. No offense intended.

"max wedge intake"

OE max wedge intake=crossram

Based on other comments, it's not a crossram....

What is it?

This is basically my take on it as well.

I’m going to assume the intake manifold is either a 440-2, 440-2D, or MP 337.

I’d use either a QFT SQ-850 or 950.

What's the difference between a QFT Q and a QFT SQ?

SQ is “Street Q”.

Less billet stuff, less racy calibration.

Sorry about that, it's the Indy intake with max wedge ports that came with the Indy EZ-1 head kit. Not sure of the exact model number, still waiting for more info on that from the builder.

My exact words to the engine builder were "I don't want some kid in a Subaru pulling up beside me at a stop light and kicking my azz! If it runs high 10's/low 11's in the 1/4 I'll be happy". I gave the builder complete control of the build to make that happen.

I have no idea what you're used to driving. Have you owned or driven a legit high 10 / low 11 sec street car before (one with the ET slips to verify it)?

I've owned my Challenger for 33 years. Never driven a "legit high 10/ low 11 sec street car". Trying to get there, what carb would you recommend BradH?

more people who are building these things should ask themselves these questions! can the owner handle the power? can the owner tune/maintain the car?

If it runs that strong, I hope you will be very careful getting used to it. I went from a mid 11 second street car to a 10 second car and there was a bit of a learning curve there, especially when jumping into it on public streets. I finally went to MT ET streets because if you hit it just a bit to hard to pass, it would get loose. This is not meant to be condescending in any way, and I am sure that is what Brad is getting at. As far as a carb goes, I think any of the quality carbs mentioned in a 950 would balance your need for power and streetability. You could always get a larger carb later, if needed. You have to find a balance for your expectations. I built a nice 493 for a friend with a Holley HP 950 and he loves it as he drives it on the street 99% of the time. Lots of good advice here and good luck!

How about the miracle Fish Carburetor?

Sorry, more questions:

1. What's in it now?

2. How fast is it today, or -- as in my own case -- the last time it ran?

3. What's the fastest / quickest muscle car you've ever driven, and was this on the street or the strip?

4. What's going to make you happier, a quick ET slip, or not having to mess with the car on a regular basis?

5. Have you received the cam specs, yet? Any idea if it's a solid or hydraulic, flat-tappet or roller?

6. Done much carb & ignition tuning before?

7. Is fuel mileage any concern at all? How does 8 MPG sound?

8. Are you interested in trading off some amount of performance for better behavior (less "fussy") in normal street driving?

9. How much time have you spent ON (not AT) a drag strip?

10. If you have 11-second MPH, but 13-second ETs because the car doesn't "work" well at the track (spins, instead of hooks up), are you going to leave it as it is, or start to get more $eriou$ about chassis tuning and on-track testing?

11. How far do you expect to drive the car on the street, and is there much highway time in your plans?

12. If/when you go to the track, are you driving the car there, or trailering it?

13. If a 9-sec Subaru WRX cuts your nutz off in a race, can your ego (and/or bank account) handle it?

14. What does your engine builder say he thinks you should run for a carb? And if you choose to run something different, is that going to p!ss him off?

Thanks Lee for the great advice! More guy's would get into the hobby if there were more guys like you around!

I agree with the others.

Buy some drag radials because normal tires are like driving on ice with a combo like this on the street.

Then, once you get it to hook, better make sure you have a beefy driveshaft and rearend!

This combo is best compared to the Supercars you can buy. Mine does 0-60mph in 3.0 seconds n/a and 2.33 with a 150 shot of nitrous.

Everybody on this post are good guys who will help you out, you just need more hard facts about your combo(cam specs especially).
Answer all of BradH's questions, he has forgotten more about carbs than I ever knew. Fast68 has been a great help to everyone and me especially. And, Yes, like GY3 says, regular street radials can get you in trouble fast, just look at how many Hellcat and Demon owners totalled out in the first few days! And there is no shame in not previously owning a truly fast street car or having solid track experience, the shame would be not being upfront about it and getting hurt! Lots of very experienced guys on here that will steer you right.

Thanks for the advice Lee.👍 10 year Moparts member, tons of great members on here.

I don't know sh!t about carbs. What I do know is that I've spent way more $$$ on this hobby than I needed to while figuring out how to make things better after making bad decisions.

The shortest distance between two points is a straight line (aka well thought-out decisions). My path has been anything but...

Over 44 years of racing for me and I've only bought four new carbs. One was an 850 back in 1979 for a small block, two 750 Holleys for a tunnel ram big block in the early 1980's, and a new 1250 this year. The only reason I bought it was because I traded a guy from APD an Indy tunnel ram and some cash for it. All the other carbs I bought were used and I redid them.


Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr