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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25718
09/08/06 04:16 PM
09/08/06 04:16 PM
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Well, I'm giving it a try. And I must admit it is starting out quite good. Its way easier than I thought it would be. I'm using the gloss white and hope it turns out as well as the 240 above

Gerbs

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: v8mirage] #25719
09/08/06 07:58 PM
09/08/06 07:58 PM

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Hey neon awsome idea but i would bring the black down just a bit <about the top of the door handle> tis would make it meet up with the hood better, but its hard to tell from the angle of the picture. the reason i think this will look good is your hood curls a bit in the front so the body line of the two tone will look higher on the body if it doesnt match the hood lip...or maybe its just me. the only other idea is to go to the door molding and do some of the bumper but i dunno how that would look

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25720
09/08/06 08:39 PM
09/08/06 08:39 PM

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Hey tastyratz, that paint job looks awsome!

I'm gonna do that exact colour to my car soon. I was wondering how you painted the door handles? Did you use a rattle can for those parts?

Thanks.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25721
09/09/06 07:04 PM
09/09/06 07:04 PM

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heres a question??? on my car i have some paint residue from wet sanding on my door jams and the trunk area. and i dont want to wet sand the areas because it will be hard to buff the paint (unless i have to). but how do i get rid of these marks.

here is a pic

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25722
09/09/06 09:03 PM
09/09/06 09:03 PM
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Quote:

heres a question??? on my car i have some paint residue from wet sanding on my door jams and the trunk area. and i dont want to wet sand the areas because it will be hard to buff the paint (unless i have to). but how do i get rid of these marks.





If it is just wetsanding residue... the odds are that you 'should' be able to take a damp cloth wetted with water and rub it off. In theory it is just dried off crap that is sitting on the surface of the original paint. So the cloth will give you the scrubbing capability and the water will help release the dried crap off the surface. In theory it is just de-watered wetsanding residue. And the water in the cloth will rejuvenate it back so that it can be released from the paint surface. And if you used dish soap during your wet sanding, that will also help when you re-wet it and make it more agreeable to release from the original paint.

Ok.. so let say that doesn't quite do the job.. move things up a notch in power for the task and use a cloth wetted but not soaked in mineral spirit and wipe the crap off without harming the dried paint beneath. In theory the paint beneath is fairly hard and cured or else you wouldn't have been able to wetsand...

Then as a potential atom bomb... to take things up yet another notch in power... you can buy a spray can of that laundry 'pre-cleaner' called "Spot Off'. Or maybe you can find a spray can of that stuff under your kitchen sink or in your laundry room. It is extremely potent. You will find it in the laundry cleaning supply section at your foodstore or Walmart etc. I was able to use it to remove paint from my gray leather seats. It also was able to remove some of the wetsanding crap that I thought had stained the leather. I didn't check at what the solvent is in it.. but I was surprised by how effective it was at getting crap off a finished surface without damage the original surface. You spray the "Spot Off' on to a cloth - get the cloth wet - and then rub away. Just keep your eyes open and keep checking the progress of the rubbing to make sure it is not lifting more than you want. I was extremely surprised by how potent that stuff was at getting crap off.

Just don't go too nutzo on your rubbing. If you are lucky the residue is all just sitting on the surface and not engrained into the paint below.

.

.

Last edited by Marq; 09/09/06 09:19 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25723
09/10/06 12:42 AM
09/10/06 12:42 AM

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This is what I worry about too. Especially with a two tone job. I think it's best to paint and wetsand the upper colors first and then the bottom colors. That's how I'll approach it anyway.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25724
09/10/06 09:03 PM
09/10/06 09:03 PM

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yah i remember 10 years ago there was a hose that hooked up to the garden hose, and had small holes in it to have a constant stream of water. it was suction cupped to the paint and it was about 4 feet long, it made a mist of water so stuff like this dont hapen. and i havent found it since then.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25725
09/11/06 09:02 AM
09/11/06 09:02 AM

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Quote:

Hey tastyratz, that paint job looks awsome!

I'm gonna do that exact colour to my car soon. I was wondering how you painted the door handles? Did you use a rattle can for those parts?

Thanks.





actually I sprayed the entire car with an hvlp gun. I didnt roll that bad boy on, thats not even buffed. I cheated :-)

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Marq] #25726
09/11/06 11:20 AM
09/11/06 11:20 AM

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Quote:

Then as a potential atom bomb... to take things up yet another notch in power... you can buy a spray can of that laundry 'pre-cleaner' called "Spot Off'. Or maybe you can find a spray can of that stuff under your kitchen sink or in your laundry room. It is extremely potent. You will find it in the laundry cleaning supply section at your foodstore or Walmart etc. I was able to use it to remove paint from my gray leather seats. It also was able to remove some of the wetsanding crap that I thought had stained the leather. I didn't check at what the solvent is in it.. but I was surprised by how effective it was at getting crap off a finished surface without damage the original surface. You spray the "Spot Off' on to a cloth - get the cloth wet - and then rub away. Just keep your eyes open and keep checking the progress of the rubbing to make sure it is not lifting more than you want. I was extremely surprised by how potent that stuff was at getting crap off.





It's the same thing as brake parts cleaner. Yeah, it's potent stuff.

Jason

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25727
09/11/06 02:33 PM
09/11/06 02:33 PM

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Hi everyone,

I came a across this thread on a BMW forum talking about cheap paint jobs. I've got a 1992 BMW 325is that I'm seriously considering painting with this method..It's red and the paint looks alright from a distance, but there's a ton of dings and the clear coat has completely peeled off every part of the car aside from the passenger side rear quarter. I wanted to ask if you guys think my paint would be alright to paint over. The paint itself is just fine and isn't peeling anywhere, but I am gonna have to fill some spots in with bondo. Will those bondo'ed spots come out with a slightly different color or will I be able to put enough of this stuff over it to even the color out? I'm probably going to try this method out on a silver 91 plymouth sundance that I have before trying it on the bimmer.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25728
09/11/06 04:28 PM
09/11/06 04:28 PM

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should be fine. when I bondoed I chose to primer over it after smoothing just to seal it. People say you dont have to but it really sucks up the rustoleum and this seems to make it coat more than soak in. Otherwhise it just takes a few coats before its really sealed. Just sand down your paint so it has a good amount to bite into. If you have paint flaking off then sand off the parts that flake until it stops flaking. The rustoleum will adhere great to a properly prepared surface. If that properly prepared surface is whats coming off then it doesnt really matter. its only going to adhere as strong as its weakest link. if you can pick it off sand it off, if you cant pick it sand it.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25729
09/12/06 08:31 PM
09/12/06 08:31 PM

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Well, I am brand new to this site--came across this thread at a Jeep site when I asked about rattle can spraying my '85 CJ7. The thread is unbelievably long, but extremely helpful. I have read it in its entirety over the last day or so, with interest and amusement.

Just a little background--I bought my Jeep a few months back ; it is mechanically sound, the body had a few rust spots, and it had been primered probably 5 years ago. I am an avid hunter and outdoorsman, and I bought the Jeep to be used at our farm as a hunting vehicle, basically to get around the fields and timber and haul out deer. I had planned on leaving it as it was when I bought it, that is, until my wife and daughters rode in it and loved it. So, instead of staying at the farm all year, it will be here at home during the non-hunting season, and they wanted it to look a little nicer than it does. I figured it needed a paint job to be respectable, so, I went to Maaco and found out they wanted $300 for a cheapo paint job, but not wanting to put much money in it, I figured I would try to do it myself. I found a cheap auto paint supplier on the web, and borrowed a cheap spray gun from my brother in law. Having never done auto painting (or any auto work at all), I was a little nervous, but figured I could do a good enough job for a "farm Jeep."

I was just about to order my paint, when I stumbled upon this thread yesterday and realized that this is the perfect solution for me. I much prefer the control that rolling on paint affords, compared to spraying (I just finished spraying the entire "tub" interior with Duplicolor truck bedliner material, and that was pretty messy). The low cost and absence of overspray/mess really makes the 69Charger/Rustoleum method attractive.

However, since I want to spend as little time as possible on this (need to get the Jeep to the farm soon), I think I will go for the Brightside option, only needing a few coats. It costs more, but still is less than what I would have spent on "real" (though, cheap) auto paint.

I have a couple questions. The first one is for Stage 5, whom I don't believe has posted since he did his Brightside job--how did it come out? I am considering buying the Brightside red paint from eBay, and I am very interested to know if it worked out well for you. Please post about your experience with it, and pictures would be especially appreciated.

Second, is the Brightside red color similar to the Rustoleum Safety Red? If so, I would plan on using it in spray bomb form for the hard to reach areas.

Finally, how much paint do you think I will need for the Jeep (it has no top or doors, just the hood, sides, and tailgate)? I am thinking I may be able to get by with two quarts, three at the most.

Thanks for all your great info and for bearing with a newbie like myself.

Oh, also, on my way to Home Depot tonight to look at Rustoleum, I was at a stoplight, next to a new, Chevy HR(?)--I looked at the paint, and could easily see "orange peel" from six or seven feet away! At the next light, I was next to a newer Dodge Ram Hemi, and saw the same thing. I checked my Saturn when I got home, and ditto for it. My point is, lots of cars seem to have that, so you all probably don't need to lose so much sleep over that. I certainly won't with my Jeep!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25730
09/12/06 09:43 PM
09/12/06 09:43 PM
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Second, is the Brightside red color similar to the Rustoleum Safety Red? If so, I would plan on using it in spray bomb form for the hard to reach areas.






Yes. The Brightside 'Fire Red' is almost identical to the Tremclad / Rustoleum "Red". They are like twins. In fact there are quite a few other marine and rust type enamels that also used this identical shade of red. I was quite surprised by how many companies had chosen to use almost the identical shade of red.

I used the Tremclad red spray bombs for all my nooks and crannies and the Brightside for all the body exterior panels. You can not spot where one ends and the other begins.

Quote:



Finally, how much paint do you think I will need for the Jeep (it has no top or doors, just the hood, sides, and tailgate)? I am thinking I may be able to get by with two quarts, three at the most.






With that little amount of panel surface I would suspect that you should probably be able to nail down four or five coats with two quarts.

.

Last edited by Marq; 09/12/06 09:45 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Marq] #25731
09/12/06 10:16 PM
09/12/06 10:16 PM

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Marq--a few more questions:

How many spray coats did you put on the nooks and crannies?

Did you try to wetsand those difficult to reach areas as well?

How many rolled on coats did you end up applying?

What do you estimate your mix ratio was with the Brightside, and would you recommend I use MEK or mineral spirits to dilute with?

Thanks again. By the way, your car looks awesome...

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25732
09/13/06 08:53 AM
09/13/06 08:53 AM

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Quote:

Well, I am brand new to this site--came across this thread at a Jeep site when I asked about rattle can spraying my '85 CJ7. The thread is unbelievably long, but extremely helpful. I have read it in its entirety over the last day or so, with interest and amusement.

Just a little background--I bought my Jeep a few months back ; it is mechanically sound, the body had a few rust spots, and it had been primered probably 5 years ago. I am an avid hunter and outdoorsman, and I bought the Jeep to be used at our farm as a hunting vehicle, basically to get around the fields and timber and haul out deer. I had planned on leaving it as it was when I bought it, that is, until my wife and daughters rode in it and loved it. So, instead of staying at the farm all year, it will be here at home during the non-hunting season, and they wanted it to look a little nicer than it does. I figured it needed a paint job to be respectable, so, I went to Maaco and found out they wanted $300 for a cheapo paint job, but not wanting to put much money in it, I figured I would try to do it myself. I found a cheap auto paint supplier on the web, and borrowed a cheap spray gun from my brother in law. Having never done auto painting (or any auto work at all), I was a little nervous, but figured I could do a good enough job for a "farm Jeep."

I was just about to order my paint, when I stumbled upon this thread yesterday and realized that this is the perfect solution for me. I much prefer the control that rolling on paint affords, compared to spraying (I just finished spraying the entire "tub" interior with Duplicolor truck bedliner material, and that was pretty messy). The low cost and absence of overspray/mess really makes the 69Charger/Rustoleum method attractive.

However, since I want to spend as little time as possible on this (need to get the Jeep to the farm soon), I think I will go for the Brightside option, only needing a few coats. It costs more, but still is less than what I would have spent on "real" (though, cheap) auto paint.

I have a couple questions. The first one is for Stage 5, whom I don't believe has posted since he did his Brightside job--how did it come out? I am considering buying the Brightside red paint from eBay, and I am very interested to know if it worked out well for you. Please post about your experience with it, and pictures would be especially appreciated.

Second, is the Brightside red color similar to the Rustoleum Safety Red? If so, I would plan on using it in spray bomb form for the hard to reach areas.

Finally, how much paint do you think I will need for the Jeep (it has no top or doors, just the hood, sides, and tailgate)? I am thinking I may be able to get by with two quarts, three at the most.

Thanks for all your great info and for bearing with a newbie like myself.

Oh, also, on my way to Home Depot tonight to look at Rustoleum, I was at a stoplight, next to a new, Chevy HR(?)--I looked at the paint, and could easily see "orange peel" from six or seven feet away! At the next light, I was next to a newer Dodge Ram Hemi, and saw the same thing. I checked my Saturn when I got home, and ditto for it. My point is, lots of cars seem to have that, so you all probably don't need to lose so much sleep over that. I certainly won't with my Jeep!


Follow this thread link to buy the Red Brightside at a significantly lower price: EBAY BRIGHTSIDE I bought a case of the Dark Blue, and it is the same as you can get anywhere else at 25% of the cost. It works just like everyone is describing in this thread.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25733
09/13/06 01:21 PM
09/13/06 01:21 PM

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Yeah, JL, I was aware of the cheap eBay paint and that is why I wanted to see results of Stage5's efforts, since he used that. You say that paint worked like other Brightside paint--is that based on your personal use of it, and/or is there anyone else that reported results with it? I would like to save money by using it, but if it is old paint or it has problems due to something else, I will spend more and get it elsewhere.

Thanks!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25734
09/13/06 02:02 PM
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I've seen random posts about people getting this stuff mixed. My car is BRIGHT red (BMW Brilliantrot) and I don't know if the standard rustoleum reds are gonna cut it (I'd like to try and keep it as bright as possible). Can I get it mixed to be really really bright red? I'm sure someone has already asked similar questions so sorry if I'm just wasting space =). I'm going to try this on my sunroof panel to start with, it's badly hail damaged and will probably look better no matter what I screw up .

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25735
09/13/06 03:39 PM
09/13/06 03:39 PM

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Bootgras--they are saying that the Brightside "Fire Red" is essentially the same as Rusteoleum "Safety Red." I tested the Safety Red from a spray can on cardboard at Lowe's and it was REALLY bright red, maybe a bit orangeish. That is how it looked in the pics of 1965's car earlier in this thread. You can see the Brightside color on Marq's McLaren, though at least on my computer, his pics seem kind of bluish-green in tint, so the red probably is brighter than how his car looks. I am almost thinking that these colors are too screamy red, but I will put it on a Jeep, which sometimes have funky colors, and mine is just a "farm Jeep," so it does not matter all that much. Hope this helps.

By the way, Marq, if you could address my earlier questions, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25736
09/13/06 03:50 PM
09/13/06 03:50 PM
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Quote:

Marq--a few more questions:

How many spray coats did you put on the nooks and crannies?






I dumped :

- one full spray bomb to do the underside and edges of the fiberglass hood ( it was white ), It took two complete passes of the underside of the hood to get even coverage.

- one can for EACH of the two door jams, inner door panels, inner rockers, Did it over four spray sessions.

- one can for the underneath side of the trunk lid. It took about two passes to get good coverage.

From what I imagine of your Jeep... I would think you should be able to get away with three spray bombs... one for the underneath of your hood, and one spray bomb for each of the door areas.

Quote:



Did you try to wetsand those difficult to reach areas as well?






No... the spray bomb puts on a fairly decent and level coat of paint. It has sufficient shine to not need any wetsanding. Bottom line is that these nooks and crannies are not as visible to the public as the outer body panels. So perfection is not as necessary in those locations.


Quote:



How many rolled on coats did you end up applying?






For your vehicle it will all depend on how many colors are on the body that you want to cover over. If the body has a uniform color... and if you are painting straight out of the can or cutting it slightly with the brushing liquid, I would suspect it will take four coats minimum. The more coats you can apply the better. Because that will give you more room to play around when wetsanding etc.

Quote:



What do you estimate your mix ratio was with the Brightside, and would you recommend I use MEK or mineral spirits to dilute with?






Brightside is 'designed' to be used straight out of the can. But for rolling I found that it was better to cut it with about 7% to 10% using their recommended 'brushing liquid'. I believe from my experiments that you can probably get the same result using 7% to 10% pure mineral spirits. The mineral spirits are cheaper then the Interlux Brushing Liquid.

Quote:



Thanks again. By the way, your car looks awesome...






I actually took the car out to a 'Cruise Night' and wasn't embarassed at all to be there. One thing that I have particularly enjoyed with this paint job is putting the polisher to it. Waxing and polishing... I have almost become addicted to polishing and waxing it. Each time it gets better and better. But hopefully I will be smart enough to know 'when to quit'... so that I don't polish and wax it back down to metal.

Last edited by Marq; 09/13/06 03:55 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25737
09/13/06 05:47 PM
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Marq--thanks for the replies.

Did you sand the Brightside after each coat, or every two coats, like Charger did with the Rustoleum? The reason I ask, is, if I will be putting down at least 4 coats of Brightside and I need to wetsand after each coat and I need to thin it, what is the advantage over using Rustoleum, especially since Brightside costs a lot more and Rustoleum is available in more choices and at stores in my area? Don't mean to be a wiseguy, I just want to find out ahead of time what method/product is going to save me the most time (again, in the context that I have a "farm Jeep" that does not need a beautiful finish).

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