This is my first post, but I've been faithfully following along since March. Told 69Charger that I'd post my results if I ever get registered. So, here it is!
I used "the method" pretty much as re-stated on page 7 of the original thread. No Tremclad here, so used Sherwin Williams industrial enamel (custom tinted, of course).
I am extemely satisfied with the results. Had no problems with adhesion. Each coat set up hard after 4 hours. I used 2 parts paint to 1 part no-stink mineral spirits. It covered the underlying white paint and bare bondo on the 3rd coat.
My camera doesn't do justice to the final gloss, but I'll say that this paint job is far nicer than the Maaco job that was on her when I bought her. I have never done any auto painting, and have no particular artistic talent. In other words, if I can do it - anybody can!
Big time "thanks" to 69Charger for inspiring this adventure!

That is probably the nicest looking color I have seen on a Corvair. It's really flattering to the lines of the Corvair and gives it more pop and almost deceives the eye as to what that little convertible is. Almost strikes me as a Cuda color...

And if you look at the front and rear fender profile with that color... it almost hints of a 70 Cuda profile. All you need to do is add the 'gills' on the front fender and you could probably leave some people doing doubletakes.

Great contribution to this discussion...

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Ah, I didn't see the attachment. Nice car!

Learning more about this forum every day :-P

Very nice!! That's a fantastic looking Corvair.

fwiw too I dont know if it means anything. I painted the whole car cut with acetone, and I was able to use the laquor thinner with mineral spirits to remove overspray. Areas where I lacked a bit on taping actually would crinkle and bubble off. My guess is once you go acetone dont go back

Hello there and greetings from Sweden.. Your thread is going worldwide. Speciall thanks to 69chargeryeehaa who bringed this up... (and others to) I been following this thread (and the previous) for a couple of months and boy was that much reading.. I had a heck of spotting the Rustoleum in Sweden, but after a while i found it 10 miles away, it's called Rustoleum Combi color in sweden.. From beginning I didnt know of "mineral spirit" , but it's called white spirit in Europe. So i bought some black Rustoleum (costs a lot moore here) and white spirit of good qality and testpainted my brother in laws 77 olds decklid.





I followed exatly the method 69chargeryeehaa described and the paint is after month glossy and rockhard, as hard as i ever know of car paint..
I have also sprayed some cars through the years with various results..
The reflections on the pics is stuff hanging on our shop wall, you can almost identyfy the pontiac and Buick valve covers...

very nice job olds77, now do the rest of the car.

Hello, all. I'm a Mopar nut too and was linked here from another site. Very interested in a green and black two tone look. I've read the first 44 pages and was linked to another thread. Holy crappy!!?? This is a lot.

We're just a long winded bunch
A lot of pages, but a lot of good people and ideas and a lot of very nice results. BTW, I like the shade of green you used, looks good against the black.

Thanks but that's just a photochop. I want the color of green to be more like what is on my car now, check my Cardomain link in my sig. Hunter green I think. Anyone here ever do a two tone. I think this process could get very difficult and would like some advice on two tones. I've read this whole 100+ thread and there's not much. Also I heard from some paint guys that windex does a fine job at cleaning base metal and plastics. Takes oil and other contaminants right off.

multi color jobs have been covered a few times. Don't ask me where, but up there somewhere. There is D150's truck, and a nice Datsun Z (his name escapes me) that are two tone and 3 tone, maybe others.. both answered questions about how they separated the colors if I recall right.

Dawn dish soap works well too.

Jason

It's not too difficult to accomplish, it just takes longer to finish. I basicly painted the dark green base first, then taped off at the trim mounting line, and did the lighter green. It's a repeat of the entire process, on just a bit smaller scale.
If you look at Marq's post with the old fire truck, mine is the truck beside it in the pic.
If you are not doing body or dent removal, and you like the green you have now, I would suggest that you mask the lower body where you want the tone line and then prep sand the top and apply only the black to the top, leaving the lower body it's original color.
IMO, the Hunter green (same as my dark green) would be too dark with a black top. Of course you could always apply a lighter green by masking the top, and repeating the paint process. The way you show the car, an adhesive trim would separate the levels nicely.
The lighter green is Tremclad John Deere green.
The green and black is definitely a nice combo, but then, I'm partial to green

Got lots of body work in my green so that’ll be new paint too. Not sure on the color though. I like the look of Hunter Green because in certain lights it looks black then it changes to green, I think my pinstripe will help the eye. Dents, chips, scratches, etc. I guess my real question is with the wet sanding. Say I start the top coat first, mask off the bottom portion. 6-8 coats on the top, sanding in between, buff and polish on the final. Then mask the top (black) and repeat. Would this be the way to approach it? I figured this would be best to avoid the black running into the green while wetsanding, it may soak through the paper. Then with the bottom the wetsanding will only run down and I won’t worry. Also can both colors be wetsanded, buffed and waxed together and still keep a good line? Or should I do only each color as separate as possible? Just kind of looking for the errors you two tone guys might have made along the way as this process is a little more involved. Also for the pin stripe I planned on masking the area and rattle canning a silver, shouldn’t need a wetsanding for 3 short light coats. I stink at straight lines though. MOPAR for life!!!

I found it easiest to finish both paint colors, then do the final wet sand and polish. Be ready for some very cautious tape removal, though. On the new paint, with the time the tape is on the surface it gets quite a grip. Use a cloth wetted with mineral spirits to rub the tape as you remove it, and go slow. This will soften the adhesive and prevent the new paint from being stressed and tearing. I found this out the hard way, but my wide trim covered the damage that i had to touch up.
Also, an old body trick is to remove the tape on the bias, _____/ <--- pulling at an angle to the line of the edge.
By wet sanding both colors at the same time for the final it will also help to eliminate edges left hwere the tape met the paint. Then your pinstripe can be applied and smoothed in as well.
Alternatively, if you apply a strip of tape the width of the stripe, then paint up to it in both colors, then remove it and tape the outside, the stripe can be applied like an inlay, almost entirely eliminating any raised edge. Someone else posted this method earlier for hood stripes, but ATM I can't find it for you.
Either way will work, but the most needed item besides tape is patience. Two tone and/or stripes add to the labor and intricacy, but I found the results worth the effort. Took me almost a month of 2-3 hrs a night and all day Sat. to pull mine all together from looking like this first pic.

Thanks man. That inlaid stripe might work better than over the top too. Just wondering if I can lay on a good AAR Cuda stripe now? Hmmmm. Also I've been searching around and found that pros like to use a razorblade with the masking tape where the paint butts up to it just to give a clean edge and to ensure the paint is clear of the tape, from my experience with pulling tape, even at the angle some paint just won't let go. Okay now to practice on the girlfriends car first. LOL!!! Thanks everyone and keep them pics coming. I know I'll post mine up.

Just got back from Sears. Got a gallon of 100% mineral spirits for $1.47 on clearance. I don't know if it is just this Sears or not, but they had at least 2 more gallons. Jacksonville Sears (Regency).

Jason

Heres some photos of my sprayed rustoleum 2 tone nissan 240sx. I filled the hole for the power antenna(we have an in glass), and every ding I could find. I used gloss black on the roof, and gloss white for the rest of the car.