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Now one retards drying and the other hastens it. Which to use, and when?

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I have seen a lot of reference to MAACO on this thread and would like to comment on them. I had a paint job done on a 73 Challenger that was not bad for the price. Unfortunately they didn't paint the hedder panel, (the piece that wraps around the headlights and grill). I was told to bring it back in a couple of weeks. When I did the hedder panel actually got a glossyer, brighter blue than what was on the rest of the car. My brother-in-law had a paint job done by them and it had areas that had bubbles. It was blamed on the body work and they would not repaint. I bought a Gremlin that had a MAACO paint job that pealed at every body line after a year. I wetsanded the car and some areas pealed of like latex. After sanding I sprayed on a sealer (DAS1980), then painted the car. I should have striped the car because the crap under the sealer caused it to lift in several areas. The first time I washed the car with water it had a few wrinkles that settled down after sitting in the sun a while. If you use them you may want to do a little of your prep before you turn it over to them. Just because it is sprayed on doesn't mean it's better. GO ROLLERS!!


Thanks Marq for the reply on the effects of humidity on paint. My guess is that many people don't realize just how much it effects to outcome of the job.

As to the neighborhood assocations problem a few pages back, Call the person in charge of deed restrictions. Then ask if there is anything reguarding paint and body work on your personal vehicle that would be a problem. If you are allowed to change oil in your driveway. I doubt there is.

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macco's usually SUCK for paint, BUT i did build a 68 mustang show car, about 10yrs ago and had it painted at macco, but the guy working on my car was this old biker guy and really new his stuff, and did a awesome job for $1100 they stripped the roof (which was vynil) and put in new door hinges, lined up all the pannels, awesome job, the car was painted viper blue, but that was 10yrs ago, and i was reccommend to go only to that shop cause that painter used to work at a high-end shop and quit, went to macco. but on average 99.99999% of macco's are just concerned with getting them in and out the door as fast as possible, somewhere along the line they throw paint on the car!!!!

as for temperature/humidity, i've rollered tremclad in dead canadian winter (-25*deg C) to middle summer (+30*deg C), and the paint behaved the same in all temperature conditions but took longer to dry when really cold. humidity did'nt effect the paint at all, unless it was foggy (100% rel humidity) then there was a haze in the paint as you would get spraying single stage in high humidity, but if it's less than 85% rel humidity, there is absoultly no effect on the tremclad from my expirence at all.

i painted my bug in middle of winter, it was retarded cold outside, and here is the result (you can see my sled, and the snow ):

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Attached was $1600 and the primer and paint alone was nearly $1000 of that. This picture was taken five months after final buff. No wax at this point. Rented a booth and paid someone to remove front and rear window. Three people six weekends sanding, scrubbing and rubbing.

dave
florida

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attached is a $50 paint job, $30 alone was for paint!!!! did it in my garage, took out my own windows, took me 1 day to scrub, and sand and i rubbed it, not for any reason, just cause it felt good!!!!

sorry, i could'nt resist, very nice job, 3rd Gen charger?

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The ones doing the stripes/two tone paint jobs how are you doing <pic's would help to see it if possible>

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Its hard to follow all the posts , can you mix and tint thr rustoleum to ,,,
an autumn bronze metallic, or is that asking too much ??

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Hey 69charger, I've been folowing this thread since day one and really like what I've seen. The only thing that concerns me about using rustoleum paint is problems with fading over time. I work on tugboats that see nothing but rustoleum paint. Over the course of a couple years the paint gets a faded or chalky look or more so loses its luster. I know, how can you compare a tugboat to a beautiful classic car but just looking at the characteristics of the paint makes me wonder? Do you think that the extra steps taken of wet sanding and WAXING with the turtle wax greatly lessen the chances of the paint losing its luster or fading that I have noticed in an industrial environment (or if it were over time to lose its luster just buff it with some wax to bring it back possibly) . Other than that the rustoleum paint at work holds up well to its surroundings its as someone mentioned before hard as nails. As for the adhesion to the body of a car I wouldn't have any doughts about using it only to be sure proper steps were taken to give it a good surface to lay onto as in no heavy rust, dirt, or oil on the body of the car and if over old paint having the body roughed up to give it something to bite onto. What are ones thoughts on this comment? anyone? Jay (Keep rolling on fellas your paint jobs are looking great)

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the prep is as any other paint job, BUT the use of primer is not necessary, prep with 400, do all the body work, and go straight to paint. as for the fading issue, think about it, if you take any paint job, paint the car and expose it to the elements, any paint will fade, there is no more maintance to the tremclad/rustoleum paint as compared with auto paints, and the durability is probabally better then an auto paint as far as resisting scratching/chipping because it really is tough paint.

here is a pic that i took about a month ago, the paint was done in 2000, middle of winter, tremclad orange:


that paint job has seen 35,000 MI, and counting, no fade, and it looks like the day i painted it.

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...as for the fading issue, think about it, if you take any paint job, paint the car and expose it to the elements, any paint will fade, there is no more maintance to the tremclad/rustoleum paint as compared with auto paints, and the durability is probabally better then an auto paint as far as resisting scratching/chipping because it really is tough paint...

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I painted my car with Rustoleum 'gloss white' in March...althought I repainted the car, the door jambs and inner fenders still have the Rustoleum paint. The funny thing is, it is now canvas/egg shell color. Elements?? the thing hasn't been out of the garage!! I wouldn't recommend this stuff to my worst enemy...

Also remember, if you paint with Rustoleum you can forget about ever using 'real' auto paint without stripping this junk completely off because it will not sand...stuff peels like latex after almost six months drying time...Chuck

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that's wierd, chuck, i can honestly say i've had nothing but the best results with tremclad, there must have been something either wrong with the paint or the prep, sorry to hear that, but the tremclad at least would absoultly never, ever peel or have adhesion issues, it's the exact opposite from my expirence.