I have a plan for my engine build (I already have a full car build post that I'll be updating as I learn new things):

440, .030 over, zero-decked
JE SRP flat top pistons, -6cc, 10.1 compression
Performer RPM Heads, 84 cc
Performer 440 intake
Holley vac sec. carb (750-850)
Lunati 10230703 (old part #60303),
Harland Sharp Rocker Arms, 1.5 ratio, KE version for Performer RPM heads
Hedman 78038 headers, 1 3/4"
ARP Wave Loc Rod Bolts
Pushrods after the length is measured (lunati or comp cams probably)
I was also just wondering if this build looks like it could make 500+ hp, I got alot of the ideas from a couple articles, one had 537+ HP, I can't find the other. Would this build be around that power level (just estimates obviously you can't know specifics)?

Also, has anyone run that cam with those heads? Would the dual spring heads (60925) be better or would it be too much?

I ain't a cam guy but it does sound like a "reasonable" combo. I wouldn't think 500 HP tho. On a side note that intake is VG but it is very tall. Here's a BTT for ya.

Can you post the cam specs for the duration at .050 lobe lift, total lobe lift and the lobe separation angle also
If you don't have the headers yet I would go bigger, the key to making HP mopar B and Rb motors is to get the air and fuel in and out, no restrictions on either side
Buy a 850 CFM carb also

Just my opinion, but the cam is on the small side.
Do you mean the Performer RPM intake? Or the Performer? BIGGG difference in performance there. The Performer RPM is a great manifold, but like RapidRobert said...it is pretty tall and has hood clearance issues w/ stock hoods.
Also not a fan of vac. sec. carbs. I'd use a double pumper.

It depends on what you are looking for though. Are you gonna take it to the drag strip? Aiming for a particular ET range? Just street driving and burning up tires?

They only thing I could add was I would go with Smith Bros. pushrods.

Lift is .494/.513
Duration at .050 is 226/234
Adv Duration is 268/276
I have been considering bigger headers, however they would have clearance issues, especially with these heads.

I've seen plenty of articles on Performer vs Performer RPM, every result show that they're extremely similar, barely even a difference. My car came with the Performer so I figure I might as well keep it. It hasn't caused me any problems. I'm going with a vac. sec. because it is a daily driver. But of course I plan on bringing it to the strip, what else would be the point of more power?

Thanks (I haven't decided on the brand), do you think this would be above 500?

I'd like to see these articles you're referring to. The Performer is basically an aluminum version of the stock intake w/ slightly larger runners in some cases. Not much difference. The Performer RPM is MUCH different and better.

The Edelbrock Performer RPM and the Holley Street Dominator are nearly identical power-wise...maybe that's what you're thinking of since they have been used in several intake tests.

Smith Brothers or Manton would be a much better source for pushrods.

Nothing wrong w/ daily driving a double pumper carb.

https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-rpm-top-end-kit-for-b-b-chrysler-2087.html

Something like yours made 482hp and 528 lb-ft of torque.

I would suggest forgetting your stock connecting rods and replacing them with Molnar or SCAT or Eagle or K1 or 440Source rods with 7/16" bolts (they all have 7/16 bolts rather than stock 3/8). The cost difference between rebuilding your stock rods with new bolts and just replacing the rods is small enough. One thing about doing that, the rods are all 6.760 not 6.768 which the stockers are supposed to be. You may be able to get the pin height in the pistons modified to get a zero deck. Some piston manufacturers will do one or two changes for very little cost.

Because any piston you decide upon will be lighter than the boat anchor stock pistons and pins, the rotating assembly will have to be balanced anyway. May as well save a few more grams and get a stronger rod in the bargain, plus one without millions of tension-compression cycles already on it.

Regarding camshaft, if your heads flow well you don't need to crutch them with a huge camshaft. What you've planned is big enough.

I think you're going to need an 850 or so carb to maximize power output.

R.

Make sure and degree this cam into what the Lunati recommends on the intake lobe centers
I'm going to assume that cam is ground on a 110 lobe separation angle and that Lunati recommends installing it 4 degrees advance so the intake lobe centers would be installed at 106 degree after top dead center, correct?
As far as the header pipes being 1 3/4 inch size versus either 1 7/8 or two inch your only talking about .125 (1/8 inch) max more wide on each side of the pipe between 1 3/4 versus 2.0 inch, correct?
Every 440 type motor I've raced or dyno tune really like the bigger pipes and collectors, ALL of them
On your deal on the street make sure and run a three inch or larger exhaust system also if you can legally in your state

Good luck. Your getting responses all over the map.

Here is one more guy's opinion;

1) Assume 475 HP motor, an RPM is going to be a little better than a regular Performer. Go with what you have now, but reevaluate when you have it all sorted out. If you like to experiment, a little intake divider work and spacer will get the std performer close to an RPM at your power level, IMO.

2) for headers, low elevens are a walk in the park with 1 3/4" headers. Are 1 7/8 better, maybe, but not much, and are certainly not your limiting factor. Go with the 1 3/4" if you want, knowing that you might be giving up a few peak HP numbers.

3) Cam choice seems reasonable.

Just one more guys opinion.

I’d call Dwayne porter and have him set the heads up and probably some mild porting. He’s fast68plymouth here on the board. Porter Racing Heads.

He can go over your cam choice and make sure you have the right springs on there, the machining on the heads is correct, etc.

I like the Hooker Super Comps myself. Whatever you go with, spend the few hundred extra and get the jet hot coating. You can get hedmans coated if you are dead set on those. Coated headers are way worth it.

Nothing wrong with using the intake you have since it’s gravy to change on a mopar. The RPM is a sweet piece though and will outdo what you have. Be mindful of the trans kick down no matter what you do or you’ll be right back asking what went wrong.

Getting those details right along with the right cam and you should be in the ballpark for your power goal.

Mr. Cab, most cam grinders put the intake lobe advanced 4 degrees or whatever when the timing is set dot-to-dot. So when our guy degrees in the cam, it should all fall together. Note that I didn't say he didn't need to degree the cam.

Back in the day, if you wanted your cam advanced, you had to use an offset bushing or key or multiple keyway gear set. Now they just grind in the amount of advance they think works best. I made an advance key for a Toyota 20R by finding a Woodruff key of the same size but wider than the stock key and hand filing the top half of one side and the bottom half of the other. It was pretty trick, and the engine really liked it.

R.