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When is the bigger U joint needed? #2554838
09/26/18 12:18 AM
09/26/18 12:18 AM
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Philadelphia
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radar Offline OP
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I’m having a driveshaft made for my big block and I went through a couple 9.25 axles before I found a good one to build. I didn’t realize I had installed a small U pinion yoke until I measured for the driveshaft. I do have a large yoke on the shelf and I guess it wouldn’t be too much trouble to swap it out?

I told my driveshaft guy to just put a combination/conversion U on the shaft for now after he shortens and balances it- I have no plans for stickier than 11” wide summer tires so I figured the U joint would probably be fine.

But it’s nagging in the back of my mind. I’ve pretzeled driveshafts before with a stickshift and slicks and broke a thirty year old universal once but with an automatic trans and street radials?

So should I swap it out and call the driveshaft shop to change my order? Or stop worrying about it?

Thanks fellas!

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554843
09/26/18 12:27 AM
09/26/18 12:27 AM
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Portage,michigan
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B3422W5 Offline
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Call them


69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554844
09/26/18 12:28 AM
09/26/18 12:28 AM
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Washington
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madscientist Offline
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Washington
I can't see reason to use less than a 7290 joint and if you are spending the money why not a 1350?

You can't hurt yourself with a bigger joint in joint.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554850
09/26/18 12:47 AM
09/26/18 12:47 AM
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Oregon
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AndyF Offline
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Oregon
I always use 1350 u joints. Never bothered to test different u-joints, I just automatically use the 1350 in every build. It seems to be the industry standard these days.

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: AndyF] #2554859
09/26/18 12:59 AM
09/26/18 12:59 AM
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Portage,michigan
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B3422W5 Offline
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Originally Posted By AndyF
I always use 1350 u joints. Never bothered to test different u-joints, I just automatically use the 1350 in every build. It seems to be the industry standard these days.


Yep.
Do it once, do it right


69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: B3422W5] #2554883
09/26/18 01:57 AM
09/26/18 01:57 AM
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Wichita
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GY3 Offline
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I tried using 7260 and 7290 joints. It was a no-go in my combo. I even destroyed a FRONT yoke after a u-joint broke on the starting line at the dragstrip. 1350 Strange shaft and u-bolt rear yoke solved my issues. I even added 150 HP and zero issues.


'63 Dodge 330
11.19 @ 121 mph
Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs.
10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554899
09/26/18 04:15 AM
09/26/18 04:15 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Bend,OR USA
I've used a bunch of Neapco H.D. solid 7260 U joints in a lot of my old drag cars with good success shruggy
My current drag car came with 1350 on both ends, it had a blown B1 motor in it before I bought it as a roller, both sizes work for the applications work
I have broke stock type u joints and yokes at the track also whiney shruggy
It is your call on your car and what parts to use up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554916
09/26/18 08:55 AM
09/26/18 08:55 AM
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UK
rb446 Offline
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UK
Put a big yoke on it, a friend here has just broke his front U at the track as its starting to hook...its only a mild 440 around 360hp/450TQ, 3700lb roadrunner on Dot drag tyres, 727- stockish verter....he's going Big.


1969 'Cuda 446ci, best 9.96@133.9 in 1990
1971 340 'Cuda, best 11.01@122.8 in 1987
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554940
09/26/18 10:37 AM
09/26/18 10:37 AM
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
Go big. I started breaking the factory driveline stuff in my cuda running mid 11s at 3700 lbs. Go big once and be done w/ it.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554958
09/26/18 11:33 AM
09/26/18 11:33 AM
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Pittsburgh PA
Eric Offline
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1350's both ends...


5.53 @ 125 1/8th on the launch control..more left in her!

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554959
09/26/18 11:33 AM
09/26/18 11:33 AM
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Posts: 1,682
Philadelphia
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radar Offline OP
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D’oh I called him and he said he already put a small U end on my driveshaft instead of the conversion U. No big deal it’s just a shortened old truck driveshaft. I’m going to run a loop anyway so we’ll see how long it lasts. If or when I crack it I will throw the big yoke on my pinion.

Thanks
Rdr

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554967
09/26/18 11:51 AM
09/26/18 11:51 AM
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Portage,michigan
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Originally Posted By radar
D’oh I called him and he said he already put a small U end on my driveshaft instead of the conversion U. No big deal it’s just a shortened old truck driveshaft. I’m going to run a loop anyway so we’ll see how long it lasts. If or when I crack it I will throw the big yoke on my pinion.

Thanks
Rdr


The tranny will need looked at if you break the driveshaft. Keep that in mind


69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2554985
09/26/18 12:26 PM
09/26/18 12:26 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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cudaman1969 Offline
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fredericksburg,va
1350s will cover up other problems.
Knock on wood, after all these years, never broke a joint or driveshaft.

Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2555070
09/26/18 03:43 PM
09/26/18 03:43 PM
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Fulton County, PA
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CMcAllister Offline
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Good 1350s, if you can get a 1350 yoke for the rear. Why a 9.25? Given enough horsepower/weight/radials/sticky track, forged slip yokes will break too. A good billet piece will take care of that.


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2555342
09/27/18 01:04 AM
09/27/18 01:04 AM
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Philadelphia
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radar Offline OP
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I wanted to do a 9.25 to be different and to be a cheapskate. I did yukon axles, crush sleeve eliminator kit, bearings, seals, and got everything back in spec for small money amd the axle was a parts trade. (Actually went through 2 to find a good one) I’m hoping street tires mixed with a light rear end in a 3000lb pickup truck will make traction always be the weakest link in my driveline. I was actually considering running an 8.25 because I have three of them but they look like a toy next to the 9.25. I did spend a few bucks on bling and bought a cast B&m finned cover which looks really nice under there.

Oh and a 70’s ramcharger 9.25 is already set up for 5 on 4.5” bolt battern and came in a width that fits perfectly in my tubs with my wheels. My ZJ rear disc brake system bolted right up too with just an enlargement of the central pilot hole which is another plus.

So no drag radials, no heavy weight, no track, and just a stock yoke... wish me luck, “hold my beer” haha

Last edited by radar; 09/27/18 01:07 AM.
Re: When is the bigger U joint needed? [Re: radar] #2555353
09/27/18 01:36 AM
09/27/18 01:36 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
I ran the small u-joint and yoke with the stock
little straps and bolts on my racecar
till I blew the ring gear on my stock 8 3/4..
once it blew the ring I changed over to a alum
center 8 3/4 with a 1350 u-joint.. its still
running fine but the car is for sale now
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