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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25418
08/06/06 10:28 AM
08/06/06 10:28 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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On the topic of the toughness of the Brightside paint... I had another minor accident that provided another example of how tough this paint is. Well... I mentioned in a previous message about how I backed my freshly painted car into a barbeque and scratched the paint. I noted how I was able to easily repair that scratch by dabbing some Brightside paint straight out of the can into the scar. Well.... LAST NIGHT I pulled another boner. My son had placed a large push broom at the entrance of the garage. This is the type of broom that looks like a capital T shape. Ok... so as I drove the car into the garage I could not see the bottom of the broom and I drove over it. The tire rolled over the broom brush and caused it to WHACK against the side of the car. The broom shaft struck against the side of my car with enough force to make me yell out loud " What the h3ll !!!! " If you cannot visualize what happened. Try imagining what would happen when you step on the working end of a rake and the shaft flies up and hits you in the head...  Because the car had not passed fully into the garage I had to drive forward - rather than attempt to get out and investigate what had just whacked the side of my car. So as I drove the car into the garage I heard a scraping along the side of the car. I was pizzzed because I could not see what was scraping along the side of the car. But you could CLEARLY hear that the 'thing' rubbing against the side of the car was doing so with some force. It was simply resting against the side of the car - it was being wedged against the side of the car. I parked the car and walked over to the passenger side of the car and I could see that the wood of the broom stick was very evident on my passenger fender. I licked my finger and with that bit of moisture I rubbed the area of the fender where the wood had scraped along the paint. The wood all came off. The good news - the paint skin did not get damaged and had withstood the scraping by the broom. No scar... no marring... and once the wood chips were removed you could not tell that the fender had been scraped. I tell this simple story to help give some further insight into the paint jobs ability to withstand simple everyday accidents that can and will happen during the life of the paint job. This incident could have been a mini disaster if the paintjob was 'soft' or not resistant to scuffs. .
Last edited by Marq; 08/06/06 10:40 AM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25419
08/06/06 11:54 AM
08/06/06 11:54 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I have a question regarding mixing this paint. After discussing this paint method with my father-in-law, he was at the local Menards and decided to buy the paint for me. He called and asked me what color, and I told him I wanted a dark midnite blue....a very dark royal blue that was almost black. He said according to their paint chips they had that color in something called 'After-midnite Blue', so I told him to go ahead and get that mixed up. I got it home and am trying out the whole procedure on one fender before committing myself to doing the whole vehicle. However, what was supposed to be a VERY dark blue is more of a medium blue/violet...it's definitely NOT dark enough. I mentioned to someone who knows automotive paint that I was going to pick up a quart of black and mix it in to darken it up, but he said not to, that if I mixed black in it would turn greyish. He said that I'd need to use maroon/violet hues to darken it up. However, it just seems to me that it's already TOO violet, and I can't see where mixing in more violet is going to make it look less violet. So what can I mix in with this to substantially darken it up? Here's a picture of the '67 Ford F100 fender I painted. The purplish hue isn't really evident here, though I tried taking pictures from several different angles and differing lighting conditions to try to bring it out for the photos, it wouldn't work. Rest assured that it's much more purplish in appearance than what this pic shows.  So what do I have to do to substantially darken this up, or should I just try to get a remix from scratch?
Last edited by FORDification; 08/06/06 11:56 AM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25420
08/06/06 01:47 PM
08/06/06 01:47 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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I am not sure what paint you are discussing. But I do agree that simply adding black to a color will not always result in the logically intended color. With the Fire Red Brightside paint, if you add Brightside Black you end up with a pottery brown color instead of a very dark red. So attempting to doctor your current batch of paints is going to require a paintman who really has his mixing down to a science in order to figure out what combination of colors will help take your paint from its current color to where you want to end up. I would almost think the paint shop should feel somewhat guilty passing that paint off as a midnight anything. It's a medium blue at best. I went to the chip samples for the Brightside paint and the darkest, blackest blue they have is called : Flag Blue. When looking at the paint sample it almost looks black. The next blue is called Dark Blue which is 'almost' as blackish as the Flag Blue - but there is more of a hint of blue to the color. This could probably be described as a very dark Navy Blue. The next lighter shade is called Sapphire Blue - and it strikes me as being closer to what most people would call a Navy Blue. I took a look at the present color on your truck and I would probably lean towards the Flag Blue as being the closer color. The color that I see on the prepared fender is very similar to the Brightside Largo Blue or their Ocean Blue. Maybe if you could get hold of one of the Interlux paint chip cards/booklet - you could point out the Brightside 'Flag Blue' - id number 4990 as being the color you are trying to match up to. Or what we did with my GTA when we wanted to match its new paint to its original color was to take the gasoline cover off the car and send that over to the paint shop for them to scan and get a dead on match. What type of paint was your father-in-law purchasing ? Other than that your fender looks pretty good .
Last edited by Marq; 08/06/06 01:51 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25421
08/06/06 02:32 PM
08/06/06 02:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
The temps have been around 93 max in the garage where it's been.
69Charger- yes, exactly, the paint 'dents'. But if you say it gets rock hard eventually, that's what I'm looking for and I hope it comes true. 
patience grasshopper........patience 
trust me it will be like your stove in 4 months, after all the garage "accidents" i've had i can say this paint; when fully cured is much more resistant to scratching/chipping then any auto paint. but like marq said, it takes time, you can't expect results right away. it's like when people buff the paint for 2 mins, and expect a mirror shine, reality is that it takes 1-2 hours to buff just the hood or trunk. i agree with everything marq mentioned in the post regarding hardness and cure times, i challange any auto paint aginst mine with regards to hardness. enamel, when cured it extreemly strong paint, like your kitchen stove, and washer/dryer, compare that paint to any "real" auto paints, your stove will win hands down.  
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25422
08/06/06 06:39 PM
08/06/06 06:39 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Ok Charger and Marq- all that sounds great and I will keep my fingers crossed and my garage hot to get this stuff to work. I just sprayed my engine bay with a mixture including about 5-10% mineral spirits, and that resuable spray can from harbor freight. To anyone using that can, or anyone who might, you can go ahead and fill it to near the top (the instructions say 1/2 fill usually). The catch is that the more mixture in there, the less air you can pump in. So if it's near full, about 1.5 pumps of a bike pump will get it to 80 lbs of pressure (which is where I pumped it back to each time) but it will only spray well for about 20 seconds. Then go back, pump up to 80 lbs, it will spray for 45 seconds, keep pumping back to 80, etc. It ended up spraying pretty well and covered most everything with one coat. Also as was said before, use the finest nozzle (which I think is light green in color). It's a thick coat, but I've done a thick coat this way before and it dried very hard in a day. I will just have to respray over some dark spots. Then do the door and trunk jambs.. 
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25423
08/06/06 06:39 PM
08/06/06 06:39 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Exit corect me if I am wrong you are waiting for at least 12 coats of paint to harden ? Your red base coat and your white finish coat. 
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25424
08/06/06 06:40 PM
08/06/06 06:40 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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More like 16 or 17 coats really, 10 of red and 7+ of white.  And for what it's worth, the red paint was pretty hard (hard enough to polish to a nice shine) before I painted white over it, so I dont think there's a problem there.
Last edited by Exit1965; 08/06/06 06:41 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25425
08/06/06 06:58 PM
08/06/06 06:58 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Then it must be the chemical makeup of the different colors that makes them set up differently just guessing. 
Last edited by Tonto4706; 08/06/06 06:59 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25426
08/06/06 07:04 PM
08/06/06 07:04 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Sorry, guess I should have mentioned it was Rustoleum Professional, I just figured it was a given, considering the thread. Well, I think I'll just try starting over with new batch at a different store, since my F-i-L thought the yahoos working at this particular Menards were pretty clueless when it came to mixing the Rustoleum. Of course that means there's been two wasted weekends of work applying the current 6 coats on the fender, but at least it's only a fender I have to re-strip.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25429
08/07/06 12:48 AM
08/07/06 12:48 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Rustoleum Professional states to use only acetone to thin.
Also I can only find Professional in gallons, plenty of quarts in stops rust.
So use a gallon of Professional and thin with mineral spirits anyway?
Thanks in advance, Mark (tired from stripping old paint and prepping for new paint all weekend)
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25430
08/07/06 01:04 AM
08/07/06 01:04 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I got a question. You guys say get it ready or prep it first hand. What exactly is that  . my car has its oem paint still.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25431
08/07/06 07:33 AM
08/07/06 07:33 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Rustoleum Professional states to use only acetone to thin. Also I can only find Professional in gallons, plenty of quarts in stops rust.
So use a gallon of Professional and thin with mineral spirits anyway?
Yes... for the Rustoleum Pro you can use mineral spirits ( preferably the 'smelly one' ). But just make sure it is 100% mineral spirits and not a thinning liquid that only has a percentage of mineral spirit in it.
Quick lesson on evaporative carriers...
a ) Acetone is extremely quick at evaporating
b ) Ketone is slightly slower at evaporating
c ) pure mineral spirits are even slower...
d ) low odor mineral spirits are even slower...
Hence the reason why the use of the pure mineral spirits give you that little extra bit of working time to lay on your paint and yet it basically does the same job as acetone or ketone.. just a little slower
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25433
08/07/06 10:25 AM
08/07/06 10:25 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Thaks all for the info...
A couple of Brightside questions.
1) Shake or Stir to Mix?
2) What percentage of #333 brushing fluid would you recomend? 5%? 10%?
3) Has onyone tried to spray the brightside with one of thoes personal sprayers people talk about on here.
Thanks Again for all the info.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25434
08/07/06 12:45 PM
08/07/06 12:45 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Thaks all for the info...
A couple of Brightside questions.
1) Shake or Stir to Mix?
2) What percentage of #333 brushing fluid would you recomend? 5%? 10%?
3) Has onyone tried to spray the brightside with one of thoes personal sprayers people talk about on here.
Thanks Again for all the info.
As mentioned a couple pages back, I used a squirrel mixer on my power drill for mixing; I word of caution - keep the speed under control. Also these mixers will inject bubbles into the paint, but a filter funnel is pretty good about dealing with them when it's time to pour into your roller tray.
I first tried about 5-10% 333 brushing fluid for my first test coat, then added a little bit more for subsequent coats, I'd say up to about 15 % (no accurate measuring performed, just eyeballing it.) If this amount of thinner causes less gloss, I can't tell, it's still "Shiny!"
I played with a Preval (Precision Valve Company) refillable cartridge sprayer. I thinned with Interlux Special Thinner 216 for Spraying, which is a rapidly-evaporating solvent. It was a spray pattern that was not entirely consistent; the droplets were of very differing sizes, so left a mixed bag of coverage. I sprayed some areas on my hood that were hard to get to with brush/roller (PO installed a hood scoop from an 80's-vintage 280 ZX Turbo wich was completely function-less on my NA Scirocco). I was able to get complete coverage in these hard-to-get-to areas, however, despite some slight orange peel. I have added more 216 thinner to my spraying vessel, but have not yet sprayed any more tests to see if the droplet size is more consistent. Remember that the Preval sprayer cannot be tipped more than 45 degrees. One pleasant surprise about the Preval was that i found it just about everwhere - the autobody/paint supply store, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Miller Paint store... it was not a hard-to-find item.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25435
08/07/06 01:18 PM
08/07/06 01:18 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
a ) Acetone is extremely quick at evaporating
b ) Ketone is slightly slower at evaporating
c ) pure mineral spirits are even slower...
d ) low odor mineral spirits are even slower...
Quote:
NOW... by accident I decided to try cutting the Brightside paint with some of the 'regular' mineral spirits that I had left from my Tremclad experiment. It works and the paint acts just like it is suppose to with the bubbles, the magic wipe of the first foam brush to pop bubbles and the level assisting wipe with the second foam brush.
So the point of this bit of exploration and discovery may be of assistance to anyone applying Brightside in very hot working conditions. You can cut the paint with about 5% to 10% Ketone OR mineral spirits and you will have a little more 'working time' for applying and perfecting each layer that you are applying.
Marq, I wanted to mention a curiosity I discovered about Brightside VS. Mineral Spirits:
While working on my paint mixing, I have about 5 vessels going; A can of brightside, A tin of 333 brushing fluid, An empty can into which I mix Paint/333, and two Quart-sized plastic mixing cups into which I poured (low-odor) mineral spirits. After mixing the paint/333, I placed the mixer into the first quart cup to solve off excess paint, then next day came back to wipe off and place mixer in second "clean" spirits cup. I was surprised to discover, however, that a large, black puddinglike mass had congealed at the top of the mixer cup! It was really nasty, and the pudding-mass broke apart into icky clumps when I pulled out the mixer to clean it.
Moral of the story - I don't think I'll be mixing mineral spirits into any brightside coats on my car! 
Last edited by CamronCamera; 08/07/06 01:54 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25437
08/07/06 04:20 PM
08/07/06 04:20 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Also... when you overdilute the paint... like sticking a paint covered mixer in a 100% solution of mineral spirits... the paint will separate from whatever it is attached to - a brush or a mixer for example - and then recongeal elsewhere in the mineral spirit solution. Because the paint is 'heavier' than the 'mineral spirit' the tendency would be to either all sink to the bottom or all rise to the top. I can't say for sure because I never subjected the Brightside to submersion in a 100% mineral spirit solution.
Yeah, I'd been hoping that the paint in the mineral spirits containers would settle down to the bottom and then I could pour off the clean stuff to reuse. Obviously, I had the one puddinglike experience (the gunk was definitely at the top, all swelled up), but also I had my second cleaner container of slightly black spirits (sounds like D&D or something!) which didn't ever settle, the paint seemed to stay suspended for several days without settling or congealing. I'm not sure if I just needed to wait longer, or if that's as good as it would get. Eventually, the mineral spirits in the second container got filtered through a rag, and those spirits became the first cleaning container. I noticed also that my plastic mixing squirrel became soft and slightly deformed after soaking in spirits for a couple days, so I guess I won't be doing that anymore!
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