Hello -

Looks like there is a burnt exhaust valve on my mother in laws 03 Neon. Based on the solid misfire and compression test and sucking sound from exhaust.

My luck the timing belt and water pump (as precaution) was changed ~2 years ago out of preventative maintenance since it was just hitting 100K and over on time. I am hoping not to need to replace belt again.

For those familiar with this job, do you think I am able to get to tensioner and keep belt slung around crank as I remove the head and replace. Planning on a reman head.
The idea was if I index crank to TDC then I can loosen the belt, swap heads and re-time cam. I have not done this job yet, is the tensioner the style with a holding pin? I really dont want to get into removing crank pulley if not needed.

Also, are there studs or bolts on exhaust manifold? I am foreseeing broken bolts on old one as it comes off.

I wouldn't use an off the shelf reman head, I think they do just the min of work. I would take you head to a good machine shop and have them do the work. On the belt, I don't think you can get to the tensioner, and I wouldn't do it that way anyway cause you can't see the timing marks to know if it slips a tooth.

Nope, gotta pull the lower timing cover

Best i remember all the manifold to head hardware is bolts

Rats. Need to find the puller for the crank pulley now. Was hoping to avoid that.
As for the head, the one I found looks to be from a decent place and comes with a new cam. Would save me down time. From the miles she does, this should be enough to get by. She is driving less and less each year. Maybe because it is running like garbage right now...oops.

Autozone rents a crank puller, yes you have to do the belt..the tensioner has to be adjusted..exhaust are bolts..I had 2 that the head was stripped..I just grinded them down like a stud and slid the mani off..then removed them with ease once the head was out.

Thanks. I'll do it the right way and not try to short cut. Looks like the puller is the same for my 3.5L in the 300M. Might as well make the tool investment.

Now the question is, and I am probably taking on more than I should. I am also changing out the front subframe. Hers has a fist size hole from the condensation from the a/c dripping on it and other questionable rust. It looks dangerous to me. Also the front end is beat and rusted to hell so changing out everything. The parts are cheap now and got an entire moog control arm and bushing kit and Monroe loaded strut kit for pretty cheap.
So do I lower the engine assembly out the bottom and work on the head or do from up top?
Might be nice to have the room to work. Or maybe I am just crazy.

Sounds like you would be further ahead swapping cars.

Checked on that already. Rest of car is in very good shape. She is 81 and only going to be driving so long. Plus she likes the size of the car. The $1k in parts and my labor is worth it, rather then buying something used and reliable. Nothing nice for under $3k. And yes, I am a bit crazy.

Problem I see is finding a clean used sub-frame.
I'll give you a heads up.Odds are the rear sub-frame to chassis bolts will probably break the nuts inside the frame rail loose when you try to take them loose.
If it does, pull the carpet back inside and take a hole saw to the floorpan. I use a small pencil torch , heat the nuts then get back underneath the bolts will come right out. Once done head to your local hardware store and pick up 2 plastic plugs to fill the hole

I agree to fix it IF reasonable costs. Replacing it is a gamble buying someone elses junk

in regards to drop the long block out or fix it in chassis ,,,
IMO leave in in there.

I have been reading about those bolts breaking the body nut. And saw threads about the hole. I bought new ones and plan on heating the old one up and PB blasting the heck out of them before attempting to turn.

Do you think I should head it off and drill an exploratory hole above and spray in some PB? Then all I need is a body plug to seal.

I found a subframe on ebay that states to be rust free and in photos looks ok. We will see when it arrives. From the photo, looks to be miles ahead of what I have now. I wish I would have paid more attention to it over the years to prevent the rust. NJ road salt did it in. The new one will be soaked inside and out in fluid film. My new friend.

Based on your description...i think I would