Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25338
08/01/06 05:55 PM
08/01/06 05:55 PM
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However... there are many edges that - despite careful sanding - have been sanded down to bare metal, and I am concerned about skipping the Pre-Kote primer. Otherwise, the hood is in good shape, with about only 2 *tiny* nicks that I have found that are too deep to sand out. After all, the paint does say to prime bare metal...
These spots are small, but you know how it is with edges... everything just comes right off!
On my bumpers, I sanded much of it to bare metal. No problems covering. A few coats and it was a uniform color. I did not see any need to primer. My experience, Mark E.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25339
08/01/06 05:57 PM
08/01/06 05:57 PM
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"the rustoleum i have not used, but it's very simmilar to the tremclad which i think is the same as rustoleum professional."
I have been testing with the Rustoleum Stops Rust. Has anybody tested with both the Stops Rust and the Professional? If the Tremclad may be more similar to the Professional, maybe I should do some testing with the Professional.....
Any Comments??
Thanks, Mark
I would get the professional if you have a choice. Some colors aren't available (or readily available) in the professional type. I've gotten a good shine out of the red professional stuff, and im painting my car white with the stops rust stuff. I hope I can get the white to shine like the red did.
I will get a hold of some Professional and test it out this weekend. I will report what I find. Thanks, Mark E.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25340
08/01/06 05:59 PM
08/01/06 05:59 PM
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Get a spray bomb primer and prime the bare metal. Choose a color primer that's closest to what the rest of the car is (i.e. a black primer for a dark colored car). After it fully dries (per label instructions for that particular primer), lightly sand it with a 400 or so to blend the surface to the rest of the substrate. You'll then be good to go with your painting.
I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25341
08/01/06 06:05 PM
08/01/06 06:05 PM
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I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.
That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25342
08/01/06 07:49 PM
08/01/06 07:49 PM
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Ooops, I am using Rustoleum, so my comment may not be applicable. Mark E. Quote:
Quote:
I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.
That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25343
08/01/06 07:52 PM
08/01/06 07:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220 toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
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Quote:
Ooops, I am using Rustoleum, so my comment may not be applicable. Mark E.
Quote:
Quote:
I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.
That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay
remember this is rust paint we're talking about
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25344
08/01/06 10:29 PM
08/01/06 10:29 PM
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HULLO FROM AUSTRALIA thanks 2 everyone who has put the time and effort into getting this info out. I have started a test using our equivelent called Killrust. I am up to 6th coat. I am sooooo impressed with this technique as i have never been able to paint, not even my nails here is the link to the forum where i have all my pics from first coat thru sanding up to 5th coat http://www.gmh-torana.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7747bye for now XXXKAZXXX
Last edited by kazfromadelaide; 08/01/06 10:31 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25345
08/01/06 10:52 PM
08/01/06 10:52 PM
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25346
08/01/06 11:03 PM
08/01/06 11:03 PM
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I would get the professional if you have a choice. Some colors aren't available (or readily available) in the professional type. I've gotten a good shine out of the red professional stuff, and im painting my car white with the stops rust stuff. I hope I can get the white to shine like the red did.
I had to special order my "Sand" professional from Lowes, so just an FYI Lowes will special order any available color for you.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25347
08/01/06 11:11 PM
08/01/06 11:11 PM
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25348
08/01/06 11:14 PM
08/01/06 11:14 PM
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I've started prepping my truck in earnest today, I'm keeping a running library of pictures (as I remember to take them) at http://faith.dixiesys.com/72GMCToday's work starts at this pic: http://faith.dixiesys.com/72GMC/IMAGE_00068Right now I'm doing seek and destroy on rust, as I clear a spot of rust I'll just spray can it (with red primer or white whatever's handiest so I don't have to constantly mess up rollers). Then it's bondo time to fill a couple dinks, and one rust thru spot. Then it's paintin time hopefully before September starts! This truck is old, and whoever painted it last did a seriously crappy job so my work is cut out for me.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25351
08/02/06 10:14 AM
08/02/06 10:14 AM
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Ok, I started off thinking I was going to use the Restolium Gloss White. Then the Brightside was introduced and I thought I'd use that (less coats/no thinning). Now "yellowing" has been brought up....for a gloss white paint job what do you guys recomend?
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Dang, that looks familiar, Grimster!
#25353
08/02/06 02:31 PM
08/02/06 02:31 PM
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Time will fly by while you're working, though! And you'll be doubly proud of the results.
Here's where I started....
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25354
08/02/06 02:38 PM
08/02/06 02:38 PM
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I wiped down the hood with Interlux Special Thinner 216... man that stuff evaporates fast... it was tough to use sparingly and yet verify the whole surface was completely wiped down. Next, I went with brushing on Picklex 20 on all edges and ridges, anywhere there is a *risk* of bare metal.
After that was wiped down and dried, I spend some time mixing the Brightside with Interlux 333 Brushing Thinner.. ~5-10%. Brightside directions call for no more than 10% thinning, so I followed these directions for my fist coat. (Sorry, I'm not trying to sound like an Interlux commercial, I'm just using same-brand products as a guarantee of compatability.)
I was in the circumstance of having to leave home for the evening to visit family, so I wanted to ensure that I got my fist coat on the hood so that it would dry while I was away... I had to skip thoroughly cleaning the garage and wetting the floor due to time constraints, and sure enough, there were plenty of bits and fuzzies in the finish by the time I was done rolling... but overall, It layed down pretty darn good!
I was surprised at the excellent coverage that I got, despite my efforts to lay on the thinnest layer possible. The roller seemed to apply with a little bit of tackiness, so I may thin a bit more on the next application. Even so, the paint layed down exceptionally flat after a half hour or so, and every one of the many bubbles that appeared as paint came off the roller popped either on their own, or by 2nd clean roller pass.
I actually did my touch-up cranny brushing *prior* to rolling (rain-tray grill, hood scoop), anticipating that the roller would do a better job of bringing all surfaces to a flatened, even finish if done after brushing - instead of brush marks ruining the rolled-on smoothness.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#25355
08/02/06 06:56 PM
08/02/06 06:56 PM
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this may have already been answered, but way too much to read through at this point, but here goes. My brother wants to use this on his dodge rampage, which has the plastic front nose. The truck will be driven year round including canadian winters, so we're wondering if the paint will flex enough for plastic and not develop those stress cracks that the paint on some used plastic body panels have. I know that body shops use some sort of flex additive for plastic body panels and such but not sure of what should be used with tremclad?
I have a friend who painted his Daytona, and he said he can twist the rear bumper like a wet rag and the paint doesn't care. Incouraging since my Shelby Charger GLHS has a ton of plastic.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#25357
08/02/06 09:03 PM
08/02/06 09:03 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378 Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
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Wipe down with a plain rag to de-dust then wipe it with mineral spirits. You might want to use papertowels for the mineral spirits so you can see when it's dirty and youre not just spreading dirt and oil around.
What I've been doing is, wiping down with mineral spirits and papertowels (between coats, it might take 3 or 4 papertowlels the whole car, using about 8 surfaces on each paper towel), then let the mineral spirits evap (may take 20 minutes or an hour depending on temp), then before I'm going to paint, I'll go around it with a lint free cloth, slapping it around getting rid of anything that might have landed while the spririts were evaporating. Then ready for paint.
Between coats, the longer the better (to a point), one day would be safe in hot temperatures depending LARGELY on how thick the layer of paint was. It should definately not be tacky whatsoever when you're adding a coat to it.
I put a thick coat on Sunday night (I think), and it was tacky for nearly 24 hours. It dried with very little orange peel. I gave it about 48 hours to dry just to be safe.
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