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However... there are many edges that - despite careful sanding - have been sanded down to bare metal, and I am concerned about skipping the Pre-Kote primer. Otherwise, the hood is in good shape, with about only 2 *tiny* nicks that I have found that are too deep to sand out. After all, the paint does say to prime bare metal...

These spots are small, but you know how it is with edges... everything just comes right off!

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"the rustoleum i have not used, but it's very simmilar to the tremclad which i think is the same as rustoleum professional."


I have been testing with the Rustoleum Stops Rust. Has anybody tested with both the Stops Rust and the Professional? If the Tremclad may be more similar to the Professional, maybe I should do some testing with the Professional.....

Any Comments??

Thanks, Mark

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I would get the professional if you have a choice. Some colors aren't available (or readily available) in the professional type. I've gotten a good shine out of the red professional stuff, and im painting my car white with the stops rust stuff. I hope I can get the white to shine like the red did.

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Get a spray bomb primer and prime the bare metal. Choose a color primer that's closest to what the rest of the car is (i.e. a black primer for a dark colored car). After it fully dries (per label instructions for that particular primer), lightly sand it with a 400 or so to blend the surface to the rest of the substrate. You'll then be good to go with your painting.

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I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.

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That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay

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I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.

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That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay

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Ooops, I am using Rustoleum, so my comment may not be applicable. Mark E.

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I do have a bottle of Picklex 20 rust converter/metal prep which I could brush onto those spots, I might go that route.

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That's the "right" thing to do. A lot of people here have painted directly over bare metal and it probably looks ok, but that doesn't make it good painting practice, nor does it insulate them from problems a month, a year, or 2 years down the road. Do what the paint mfr. suggests right on the label of the can, and keep Murphy and his family at bay

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remember this is rust paint we're talking about

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I would get the professional if you have a choice. Some colors aren't available (or readily available) in the professional type. I've gotten a good shine out of the red professional stuff, and im painting my car white with the stops rust stuff. I hope I can get the white to shine like the red did.

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this may have already been answered, but way too much to read through at this point, but here goes. My brother wants to use this on his dodge rampage, which has the plastic front nose. The truck will be driven year round including canadian winters, so we're wondering if the paint will flex enough for plastic and not develop those stress cracks that the paint on some used plastic body panels have.

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Since I have used both the Tremclad/Rustoleum and the Brightside paint... I will take a shot at this question.

I don't think you have to worry about the flex of these paints when applied as per the Charger 'thinned out' method.

The skin being left on the car parts is very thin. This allows it more flex then say a straight coated paint job which might be up to 5 times thicker when cured.

My first thought when I read the question was this... most factory paint jobs are prone to cracking (spidering type cracks) when the plastic is flexed beyond a 'certain point'.

Normally when a body part reaches that 'certain point' of flex it is the plastic itself that is going to crack.

Overall... I would suggest that either of the paints would provide equal or better ability to withstand 'reasonable' flexing of the plastic body parts when compared against a factory paint job.





My McLaren has a very flexible front bumper/aero effects and rear bumber/aero effects. I have layers of both Tremclad and Brightside paint on them. I have no qualms or fears that this will be an achilles heel or weakpoint of this paint job.

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Ok, I started off thinking I was going to use the Restolium Gloss White. Then the Brightside was introduced and I thought I'd use that (less coats/no thinning). Now "yellowing" has been brought up....for a gloss white paint job what do you guys recomend?

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White in any paint has a tendency to acquire a yellow tinge with age. That is why most professional painters tend to add a spec of blue tint to their 'white' to permanently ward off the yellowing. This is especially true of CHEAP LATEX white paint. But that is also more relevant to 'old' paints from the 'old days' and the chemistry of modern paints have taken steps in the chemical composition of the paints and pigments (solids) to prevent yellowing. But even moderm CHEAPER BY THE GALLON type paints may suffer from not having anti-yellowing technology in them. Heck... even the polyurathane composition of the Brightside paint would help in sealing off the ability of oxygen to get beneath the outer skin of the paint job to discolor the pigment. And even further the solids or pigments are completely encapsulated and surrounded by the polyurathane which prevents oxygen from reaching them... And lastly... Brightside is a polyurathane... ( think of a liquid PLASTIC ). I would really like to know what type of staining substance can penetrate a solid plastic barrier. It just doesn't make sense.

The 'off white' colors are usually pre-dispositioned towards 'yellowing' in that they have a pigment that gives the initial 'off white' color. I don't think that would contribute to further 'yellowing' of that 'offwhite' color because these paints are engineered to hold their initial color without fade or discoloration for as long as it is chemically feasible. As we all know.. ALL paints eventually change color - and the real comparison of good paints and bad paints is 'how long is the paint engineered to hold its initial color. In this regard I think the Brightside and the Tremclad/Rustoleum are both engineered to 'hold their color' longer than many of the other paint products out there.

The only hint of a stain would occur where a substance with a contrasting color is able to enter the microscopic pores of the paint surface. But even there the staining substance can probably be encourage to detach itself from the pore with the right washing or cleansing. And in a worst case scenario the 'pore' could be removed with a wetsanding - since those pores only exist on the outer surface and do not act like passageways through the paint..

The Brightside paints for example do have special anti-UV ingredients to prevent fade or color changes from the ultra-violet rays of the sun.

But you mentioned that 'you had heard of yellowing in areas where there was no direct sun the whites were changing to yellow. My first thought is that it is obviously not a UV problem. Hmmmm... something not exposed to the sun.. like an inside cabin... would be affected by cigarette nicotine... that would yellow a white wall... or cooking in a galley would release things into the air that would yellow the walls inside the boat if they were enclosed and painted white. Just visit my mother's kitchen to see how cooking changes the colors of her kitchens walls etc.

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this may have already been answered, but way too much to read through at this point, but here goes. My brother wants to use this on his dodge rampage, which has the plastic front nose. The truck will be driven year round including canadian winters, so we're wondering if the paint will flex enough for plastic and not develop those stress cracks that the paint on some used plastic body panels have. I know that body shops use some sort of flex additive for plastic body panels and such but not sure of what should be used with tremclad?

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