360 iron block/iron heads/short duration (30 minutes) racing/stock bolts. Would you guys recommend any thing such as spraying it with Permatex "high tack". retorquing after first fireup after it cools. breaking loose each head bolt 3/4 turn then back to full torque. or anything else. Heads/decks are flat. My OCD wants more. thank you for your time.

I ran them on my 11:1 360 with aluminum heads. I never had any issues, I used them with bolts and with studs over the years. The one time I did go through the trouble to retorque after a heat cycle not a single one moved so I never did it again.

Alright, it sounds if I stick to std procedures/no shortcuts & if I see an issue (bad threads etc) then resolve it that I will be fine. thank you.

I ran them on a 12:1 360 for years with bolts and studs--I ran clear tube on EVAC I would start to see a "mist" or condensation in one side after a while--That was the sign to replace the gasket Before it caused trouble
Usually could get 150 runs before trouble--Studs did seem to help some --when checked the outside row ( short ones) would always be a tad loose--started giving them an extra yank when torquing down and that went away
I have always used a spray Hylomar on Cometics but never on the 1008's small blocks--ten bolts = gasket trouble sooner or later in a small block Mopar

I’m not a lover of bolts on race engines since you are relying on NC threads. I like the smoothness of NF threads and their clamping abilities.

Do you mean you applied the original torque to the stationary bolt and it didn't move? If so, that doesn't mean it was at the correct torque. Like Robert said, first loosen the bolt and then re-torque; correct torque value can only be achieved on a moving fastener.

13.0:1 with alum heads & studs, no tricks, no re-torque, zero issues.

I do have a new can of spray Hylomar sitting on the front room table. & that reminds me I coulda swore someone said to use it on head bolts ???

Do not use sealer on the gaskets. Use the standard advised installation procedures. No issue. Morerr important that both surfaces are flat. Some used to like the finish of a Blockmaster 85 machine, due to the fact it gave the gasket some " grip". Not sure on that one, but as stated, they will work fine.

Not a racing application, but when I switched to 1008 any previous seeping issues (the block to head mating surface at the front and rear edges of the block) dissapeared.

I followed the standard torque directions, the only difference being I used ARP fasteners and their lube.

Installed lots of them and the BB one.Plus we used FelPros at work for all heads.Never used a thing.Just nice and clean and never a problem.Have them on my sons 360 with 10.8 comp.Rocky

I've never had any issues with the 1008 gasket using bolts or studs, no sealer ever. Since my engines are built to run on pump 93 the most compression I've ran is 11.4-1.

My current 434 is 11.2-1 and uses studs, I did come back two days after the heads were installed and one at a time break the nuts loose and re torque. I marked them all with a paint pen and was surprised that some moved almost a quarter turm before reaching torque, all of them moved some. I don't think this is neceaasry though.

Alright, sounds good no sealer & std procedures. thanks guys

Robert -- I'm a former FP engineer (and I wrote the installation tips for all the aftermarket gasket sets)... rule of thumb:

Fiber face = no chemical needed
Metal face = apply thin even coat of tacky sealer (not RTV!)

The 1008 gasket is fiber faced and already has an anti-stick coating that give a little additional sealing assurance (but the primary purpose is anti-stick for easy/clean gasket release if/when needed).

Just be certain of flatness, smoothness and proper torque specs.

Mitch you're the man! all noted. (just my OCD telling me that there has to be "something" else that I can do that will "improve" things!)