Has anyone tried this? Bought a 408 rotating assembly and it came with a set of Mahle forged coated pistons and steel 1mm 1mm 2mm standard tension rings, piston to wall will be .003. I am only worried about oil control at highway speeds. Mahle claims it will be fine, new cars are getting them, yes but they have way better windage control than older stuff. Will be using a milodon 7qt pan, maybe a crank scraper would help.

It wil be fine. There is nor reason to run anything thicker than .062 anyway. You are at ~.040 so no biggie.

New cars also have very tight rod side clearances and run 5w20 oil.

I don’t think a 1/1/2 ring pack is a “slam dunk” in all situations.

I agree
Mahle is providing a ring package that may make a couple few more HP but is a nightmare to install for a back yard builder--You MUST use a tapered ring compressor to have a fighting chance of getting that oil ring in undamaged--block bores must have good chamfer as well
Too much risk for almost no gain ( or very little gain)

Why they include these in street car kits makes no sense in real world just on paper

I would feel stupid if I paid money for new pistons and they had rings bigger than that. Welcome to the 21st century where you can buy showroom stock 800HP street cars that don't burn oil.

I'm to busy buying up and using all the old junk that the Gen 3 guys are selling for penny's on the dollar. I'll take those thick ring SLUGS. LOL

It is not about oil--they will work perfect--it is not about HP they may make 5 more Big deal because that is a maybe
it is about guys at home building an engine that requires a surgeons skill to get the damn oil ring in without squashing it

If modern was so damn good then why do you all want a 69 Charger?

Because they want a 1969 Charger that will idle and perform like a new one with 60 plus year old engine designs. That way when they have almost 30 thou side clearance on their "modern" H beam rods and their teeny tiny oil ring they will know the first thing to check on when it starts using oil.
Todd

Well it keeps cars more original --they dripped. leaked etc when brand new
We bought a new 66 Belvedere and every car in the showroom had large tin pan under the engine LOL
At least it is not like a few years back when Mahle was sending out oil ring expanders that butted together HARD and were not right--when their tech was called they said that was right and anyone that did not agree was not a very good engine builder This was in the first Eagle big block kits that came with Mahle pistons Oh what fun to be the one that takes parts from 80 different makers many of whom have never actually seen a Mopar big block or small block and then.......make it all work

Saw an a for Golf Club salesman--Think I will apply

Kind of confirms my worries, thought I was getting normal 1/16-3/16 ring package. Yes it has big rod side clearance. Mahle does not have to fix it if it has oil control problems.

Cmon, cmon, cmon!

Rod side clearances are not the meter in oil coming off the rod. The bearing-to-journal clearance is maybe 20% of that. It's like having two feet of 2" pipe connected to 1 foot of 4" pipe. Where is the restriction?

Reducing friction from rod side to crank makes horsepower, see piston-guided rods. I read recently about racers relieving some of the rod sides so there isn't as much friction between rod and crank.

Oh, well. I'll probably get slagged for this repetition of facts, but facts are facts and opinions are opinions.

R.

I have had no issues with oil use on skinny rings I never said it was an issue I think I said no issue with that
It is the other things that make that a poor decision for street stuff IMO
almost No gain and serious potential for installation problems and...maybe..who knows after a few miles maybe not so smart to have such low tension oil rings in a danged ole hotrod mopar with 50 year old blocks
Yea my new hemi truck has skinny rings for MPG--it sucks oil like crazy
but that is apples to oranges

Most car engines aren’t designed to be two cycles. But what do I know. I don’t have a college degree to come up with some fancy formula or theory

Side clearance has nothing to do with oil control. Oil control on the cylinder walls is controlled by bearing clearance.

If the OP is even running a 20w50 oil his bearing clearances shouldn't be much over .003 at the very most.

In fact, hopefully he is setting his stuff to run on a 5w30 and buy a good oil.

They will be fine. Most of the OEM's are now using them. Mahle uses them for most of their application & they are an OEM supplier also. We build literally 1000's of race & street engine every year with a 1MM, 1MM, 2MM combo's with no issues.

Was thinking 0-40, or 5-30 synthetic for oil, roller cam, in a roller block.

IIRC mine are 1.5, 1.5, 3.0.

They are doing ring packs thinner than that, even in some of the OEs. Just like any "exotic" part, you have to balance the cost and maintenance factor with the desired benefits and results. Vacuum pumps, dry sumps, block material, honing techniques, etc, etc. Replacing rings every 50 runs. Is it worth 5 or 10HP? Record setting Super Stock or Comp engine? Or a bracket, mid-level Stocker, Super Gas piece?

If a few horsepower are that important, you're likely spending thousands on the car as well - lightweight parts, ceramic bearings, etc.

Agree, and I run OLD Eagle Chevy 6.385 rods with .030+ rod side clearance and have for over 16 years...........

HOLD the dang phone.
I give up.
Todd