12.49 in my truck with 28" tires and its totally uncontrollable on the street

Shouldn't SLR be somehow equatable to power to weight ratio?
Seems like you should be able to get something that would compute to an approximate 60 ft time

I have both a 904 and a Powerglide.. I think the issue is shocks. And Springs.. I believe it was Al that said by the best shock you can afford and I agree 100%.. also have worked with John Calvert with getting the correct leaf spring for my car..

Except that doesn't take into account
A; Tire type/size
B; Suspension type
C; Shocks
D; Weight distribution
E; Trans type stick/auto
F; Converter/clutch
G; Starting line RPM
H; trans brake/foot brake

It's no secret that just like anything else in racing there are different levels of tuning. The fast guys put as much power to the starting line as possible. That is power x SLR x torque stall ratio. Others run huge tires and less gear for consistency. That being said as power goes up you will reach a limit of how much SLR the track can take. Some guys can go both quick and consistent with SLR that others say won't work. Depends on how hard you want to work at it.
Doug

That car ran a best of 11.23 at 119.+ MPH at that race, it had a bunch of string sucked up into the fuel pickup that I was not aware of until after I sold it right after that race. All the other M.W. Mopars running in B/SA at that race where running 122.+ MPH but I contributed that to them having the bigger 1964 carbs, intake and camshaft
I had all of them cover by .17 ET, but I was my car was down 3.0 MPH I ran the Firestone 30x9x15 slicks tubeless that where around 96.3 inches in circumference with 16 to 18 lbs. in them on a ten inch rim.
The cam was a Lunati legal cheater cam with the lash set at .012 and .014 hot, that car was completely legal
I loved that car, I won a bunch of races with it and made a lot of money racing it
The good old days

Thanks for the reply.
Sounds like it was a 63 car.

03heavy,
For the type of racing you want to do, don't get hung up on killing the 60ft. clocks. I've done a ton of index racing over the years, and getting the car to react the same every time in the first 10 feet is more critical to good reaction times than an impressive 60ft.
My car is ladder bar/coil over, so I realize you have more challenges to make it work, and the .4 pro tree is a pain for these types of classes. In addition to driving my car on Drag Week, and spraying it on occasion, I knew I would end up index racing as well, and I love the D Gas 10.60 index .4 tree racing at NHRA Nostalgia races, and I've also done some of the 10.0 stuff at Street Car Takeover.

My 428 small block made 615Hp at 6700, and is over 500 ft.lbs of torque from 4400 to 6200 on the dyno. The top picture on my previous post was the car leaving on the trans brake, with the two step at 4200, NA. My sixties are typically 1.40-1.43 in this configuration, but my best light is .042 in a .4 tree without rolling in a little. The car just has too much front travel right now, and perhaps a little more tire pressure in the rear would help. For reference my best NA ET is 10.39-128. I think the converter is 300rpm too tight, and the 3.89 gear is too tall for max effort. Best on nitrous is 9.43-139. The 8" converter can't really hold the torque, and the 3.89 gear is too short to pull all the way to the stripe! Such is the the plight of a multi-use street car!!

Shocks and springs and tuning are critical to getting the best from your combination. But if the combination (i.e. low gear ratio) is out of whack, one way or the other, it becomes difficult or impossible to get the car to run as quick as it's capable of or even control the tire. The suspension and transmission parts - including available gear ratios, tuning, converters and tech, coming out of the very high horsepower Pro Mod and drag radial world, is crazy. All about tire management.

Thanks guys for the insight
And whitedart you have a nasty machine ( Been checking it out on YouTube )
Mines gonna go together as planned
But now I have a little more direction
Will call Calvert and talk about the springs suggestions and probably get a good DA shock
on it before I even put it on the ground

Whitedart I found some of your videos from under the car while launching
Not sure if they were the glide or the 904 they were about a year old
The videos are helpful
Gonna set mine be up like yours
Nice to know the lower blocks aren’t a issue
Who’s shock are you using
Any-who thanks

At the time those videos were taken I believe I was on a 28.10.5 Tire.. with viking da shocks. Set up with drag radial valving the lowering blocks are made by Calvert they are half inch thick made of steel and designed to be stacked.. if you're going to stack blocks make sure you get the steel ones. When you speak to Calvert you will want to talk about the type of racing you are planning on doing. As well as the weight of the vehicle and right height lower the better
..

What's wrong with the aluminum lowering blocks? I only need 1/2 to maybe 3/4 inch drop so I won't need to stack them. Is aluminum ok if I don't stack them?

I have alum 1 inch on mine and no issue so far

I have been told it's not the best of ideas

I've heard the same thing on race cars

Ok thanks. Glad I heard this because I'm just getting ready to order them. I'm buying steel.

Thank you

Aluminum captured between 2 exactly flat, very rigid parallel structures is safe.
Otherwise not.

SLR = 14
but then....someone left the torque converter out