What would you build if you had the parts I have?

Getting all your parts to work together to make an efficient working combination is always the goal, right...?

That being said, I have never had the funds to just buy the parts I needed and do a build and get it done. It's been a LONG road with my project... "perpetual" is a better term. And sometimes when you have a project that lasts for years and decades, plans change many times along the way.

So here's what I've got:

1. Estimated 2700-2800 pound w/driver E-body, Powerglide w/brake, 4.56 geared 9", big tire.
2. MW Victor style heads cnc'd by Jeff at MCH. Manley 2.25"/1.81" valves, Harland Sharp 1.5:1 rockers, heads flow 365 at .700".
3. Comp solid roller, dur @.050 271/276 , 108, ...705/690 lift w/1.5's.
4. Super Victor MW intake just gasket matched to heads, 1050 Dominator

I don't have it yet... but let's say aftermarket RB block and a stroker kit... budget style.

With what I have as a starting point, what would you build? Pump gas? Race gas? How big of stroker?

I don't plan on chasing points or thrashing the thing every weekend, but I do want it to work.

Thanks

+How fast do you want it to go?
My current bracket S/P race car is near what your stating your is weight wise, with a 400 block 505 C.I. bracket motor using E85 pump fuel it runs 9.00 at 147.+ MPH in the 1/4 mile best so far
Your heads might be a little bit better than mine are now Not knowing your goals it is a little harder to help you choose the proper part for you to reach your goals

440 source 543 RB stroker/pump gas

This is a race car that is not driven on the street? And is it legal to run 9's? If so I'd go with something nice and simple such as a 4.25 crank with 7.10 rods and flat top pistons. That should give you around 12:1 compression but you'll need to run the numbers. 12:1 compression should be in the sweet spot where you'll make decent power without requiring super expensive fuel or touchy tuning.

Build it to last rather than trying to get every last drop of power out of it so stay conservative with the rings and bearings. Put a good oil pan in it, stay conservative with the timing and stuff like that. If the engine is built right it should last for hundreds of runs and be fun to drive.

With those heads and cam you should easily make 700 hp with a 12:1 short block. Probably closer to 800 hp if you have good headers, good ignition and the carb is dialed in.

However big you build it with whatever CR your 32" tyre?, 4.56 gears and an estimated 700>750hp in an estimated race weight of even 3000lbs you'll be turning a min 7200-7500 trap rpm depending on your conv. slip and should run 9.3>9.1's@143>147mph. Thats a load of rpm for a long stroke motor but doable, calming it down with 4.10's would bring you down to a reasonable 6700>6800 rpm at the stripe@750hp. Just some numbers I crunched that may help you make a better choice for a bit more longevity in the overall approach.

To answer a few questions...

TTI 2 1/8 step headers

Race only

8.50 cert

5k stall PTC converter

MSD ignition

Tire height or gearing may be tweaked later.

Thanks

OK, I have to say it....lol...and you already know this. You are building a 8.50 cert car, but want to build an engine " budget style"? The shortblock,. is the LAST PLACE to go budget. Its the base of the engine. Since you are going for a aftermarket block, why would you want to finish that budget style? I could be missing something here. If it were me, and its a race only deal. I'd build it 13.3 CR, 540 or even 572 CI ( yes a little short on head, but it will run fine) (it cost no more to build this), runs fast on 110 octane, all the rest is standard race stuff.Buy good shortblock parts.Select cam wisely.

If you can't get your hands on an aftermarket block, I'd build a 4.25" stroke RB w/ 12:1 to 13:1 compression and have fun w/ it. Like AndyF said, it won't need the real expensive fuel and your tuning window will be big.
It's race only, so there's no way I'd use pump gas...the stuff gets worse every day.

If you can get a good block, go ahead and make it big. At least 540" or 572" preferably. The 540" and 572" combos are common and easy to find rotating assemblies...used even. Don't worry about the heads being small, they'll just lower the RPM range and keep it reliable.

Get the block first, then decide on the rest.

CWE, I get it on the “budget style “. I was trying to avoid the recommendations for Winberg, Callie’s, Bryant, etc.

For stroker kits, I was thinking Scat or Ohio Crank as being budget.

If I could get away from an aftermarket block , it could save big and make progress with the rest of the car. I was looking at the BCR cap and girdle kit, but I’d probably have to travel to find a machine shop that is capable, and close to $1k to install.

That’s why I was leaning towards the Indy block.

If I were doing it with an aftermarket block, I’d do a 572.
Molnar crank and rods, flat top pistons, .043, 1/16, 3/16 rings, lateral gas ports.

Go Molnar on crank and rods, best value there.

Stay away from race gas and get an alcohol carb from APD. Run an alternator and all you have to do after you get the jetting right (EGT's) is add fuel and charge the battery once a month. Zero engine cooling during the day so way less battery drain.

I disagree on using straight methanol alky due to the oiling contamination issues
I switch the E85 4 yrs ago and love it

Sorry but you are 100% wrong on the alcohol and moisture issue, if you know what you are doing

Was looking inside my mates 540 BBM at SPR run on Methanol with a toilet just last weekend and he was complaining of contamination, inside the valve cover was quite milky and the vacuum pump can was half full, he uses C14 as a warm up.

Our little budget combo's have been with 440 Source kits. I have built their 440/512 and raced it for 5 years, and built their 400/512 and I am on our first season with it. Both pump gas, 1050 4500 carb deals. Both run 9.70 and are pretty reliable.We run the girdle they sell with it.

I am still working on the tune up, but last week I nailed a 6.202 at 110.8mph in the Gold Cup here in NY. Tinkering with carb tune, spacers, timing, tire pressure, etc....Lanunch at 2500, shift at 6400...

With over 12:1, my combo would run in the 9.50's or better...You have an E-body, so I would step that up to their 440/543 kit...Torque is king! Keep the rpm under 6500, and it will last.

Heads are Indy EZ1's basically out of the box.

I’m not going to say it can’t be done with a toilet system but it takes more tuning skills to get there. Fuel contamination is a big issue too. If I ever tried a toilet I would have a primer plus system for start ups, shutdowns, and driving to the lanes.

Thanks John, just trying to help m8, he did run a Carb prior and tbh the toilet isn't that much faster, he went a best of 8.85 and 8.80 with the toilet.

I agree...fully.