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Since I'm going with gloss black I'll take my time.

To see what the car looked like before any work click here

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Yup... I think the difference is going to be night and day for you. As they say... the paint job is 90% prep and 10% painting. But I think you are going to be able to renew your love affair with your can once you get a nice glossy black skin back on that puppy

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Yup... I think the difference is going to be night and day for you. As they say... the paint job is 90% prep and 10% painting. But I think you are going to be able to renew your love affair with your can once you get a nice glossy black skin back on that puppy

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Renew? I'm crazy about that car. My friends think I'm for loving an 80's Dodge. They shut up though when they get in and feel 15psi put them back in the seat. Then it's . The interior is near perfect, I just dropped about 3k into the front end, tranny, brakes, steering etc. The engine I installed 2500 miles ago. After painting I wont having anything to do .
I just picked up some glazing putty to REALLY smooth it out. I hope after all this I can get the mix and technique right.

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Thanks, actually for now. I do not have any plans to paint the car. I'd just like it uniform color/primer look. Can Rustoleum Primer be rolled on? How would that be thinned?

Thanks

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Yes... you can do the primer with a roller. In fact further back in this discussion thread, there was a link to a body shop association web site where they were actually lauding the 'rolling' of primer instead of spraying it. It would seem that the auto body industry is calling the 'rolling of primer' the next logical thing for shops to implement. Save application time... cuts down on noxious gases in the air ( enviromentally friendly ) etc.

I think the previous discussion in this thread about the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer was mixed on whether to thin it or use it 'straight'. It would appear that both work and the merits of either way balance out no matter which way you go...

If you thin the primer :

PRO : By thinning it you can get it to lay down smoother and it cures quicker...

CON : By thinning the primer you may affect its adhesion quality. You also will have a thinner primer surface to work with when you sand it prior to painting.

If you apply the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer straight from the can..

PRO : You will get a thicker layer of primer to help cover minor surface glitches and you will have a thicker surface to work with when sanding prior to painting. Adhesion should be at its best since you are using the primer in an untampered state.

CON : The curing time of the primer will be longer because the primer is thicker.

With the Brightside Pre-Cote primer... both of the above things apply.

With the Brightside Pre-Cote primer you can add 50% of your chosen color to the primer to give it a heads start towards the end color.

The same may apply with the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer. In that you would lay down an initial layer of straight primer. Then you would follow up with a second layer that is a blend 50% - 50% of the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer and the end color paint.

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Thanks. So how would i thin Rustoleum primer? I'd like to stick to that because i can get it locally with no hassle. I wouldnt stray too far from out of the can, just a little thinner is what i would prefer. If i remember right it is laytex based, so how could i thin the primer?

Thanks!

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A question to those who might know. Now we've pretty much completed our slacker method (me and my friend did his car). It came out nice but I would say we did prob half as good job of probably most the people on here (hey it looks better then before, thats what counts :P).

My question is though, I will be doing this to my car and since I love my car more I will do a lot more testing before I take it to the car, but I haven't gotten the chance to pick up a panel to test yet.

My main question is, would anyone think it would be easier sanding down to near bare metal, or bare metal itself, with something like > http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0401vwt_super15_s.jpg and then laying thin coats. I'm thinking it might help, maybe it's just me, I could see it needing more coats because of the bareness, but has anyone tried this? I'm sort of interested in doing so (since I want to do gloss white on my black car and I think doing that might be somewhat easier).

Let me know. Also, could you use that same tool to just scuff the paint quickly compared to using a block and paper alone? Advice would be a appreciated.

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A question to those who might know. Now we've pretty much completed our slacker method (me and my friend did his car). It came out nice but I would say we did prob half as good job of probably most the people on here (hey it looks better then before, thats what counts :P).

My question is though, I will be doing this to my car and since I love my car more I will do a lot more testing before I take it to the car, but I haven't gotten the chance to pick up a panel to test yet.

My main question is, would anyone think it would be easier sanding down to near bare metal, or bare metal itself, with something like > http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0401vwt_super15_s.jpg and then laying thin coats. I'm thinking it might help, maybe it's just me, I could see it needing more coats because of the bareness, but has anyone tried this? I'm sort of interested in doing so (since I want to do gloss white on my black car and I think doing that might be somewhat easier).

Let me know. Also, could you use that same tool to just scuff the paint quickly compared to using a block and paper alone? Advice would be a appreciated.

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That tool is way too harsh for scuffing,it eats through paint and rust very quickly (depending on what drill it's attached to) and would be OK for stripping, but I would avoid stripping the whole car. There are scotch brite pads made for scuffing. I havent used them, I used some 320 grit wrapped around one of those soft sanding blocks for the areas of my car that I wanted to just scuff and go.

How is your friend's paint unsatisfactory? It seems like most appearance problems can be fixed by wetsanding with 2000, waiting a bit, then polishing. That would take care of orange peel and crap that landed in the paint.

As a followup to my using a thicker mixture - as of now, the paint is still tacky (after 11 hours at about 75 degrees). The thinner mixture would normally be dry by now.

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I have to agree with Exit. I stripped my car down to bare metal and reget it completely. Live and learn but I would have much rather sanded down the rusted sections then scuffed the rest. It would have saved me a LOT of bondo and sanding. If you're worried about the white on black taking an unbearable number of coats, you could look into the light gray primer or even use the light gray rustoleum for a few coats to lessen the shark difference between the white and black then coat overtop that with the white. If you do decide to strip the car to bare metal, look back to page 18 or 19 where I posted I was using the wirewheel and read the replies about using a 80 grit disc. There's a link there that had good information that I could have used before I started. And now, I head back to the garage for more sanding.... JOY!

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If you do decide to strip the car to bare metal, look back to page 18 or 19 where I posted I was using the wirewheel and read the replies about using a 80 grit disc. There's a link there that had good information that I could have used before I started. And now, I head back to the garage for more sanding.... JOY!

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+1 on the 80 grit. Strips fast. Thats what I used on my one really bad fender.
And now....off to glaze the front clip.

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A question to those who might know. Now we've pretty much completed our slacker method (me and my friend did his car). It came out nice but I would say we did prob half as good job of probably most the people on here (hey it looks better then before, thats what counts :P).

My question is though, I will be doing this to my car and since I love my car more I will do a lot more testing before I take it to the car, but I haven't gotten the chance to pick up a panel to test yet.

My main question is, would anyone think it would be easier sanding down to near bare metal, or bare metal itself, with something like > http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0401vwt_super15_s.jpg and then laying thin coats. I'm thinking it might help, maybe it's just me, I could see it needing more coats because of the bareness, but has anyone tried this? I'm sort of interested in doing so (since I want to do gloss white on my black car and I think doing that might be somewhat easier).

Let me know. Also, could you use that same tool to just scuff the paint quickly compared to using a block and paper alone? Advice would be a appreciated.

---

That tool is way too harsh for scuffing,it eats through paint and rust very quickly (depending on what drill it's attached to) and would be OK for stripping, but I would avoid stripping the whole car. There are scotch brite pads made for scuffing. I havent used them, I used some 320 grit wrapped around one of those soft sanding blocks for the areas of my car that I wanted to just scuff and go.

How is your friend's paint unsatisfactory? It seems like most appearance problems can be fixed by wetsanding with 2000, waiting a bit, then polishing. That would take care of orange peel and crap that landed in the paint.

As a followup to my using a thicker mixture - as of now, the paint is still tacky (after 11 hours at about 75 degrees). The thinner mixture would normally be dry by now.

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(hey it looks better than before, that's what counts :P).

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would anyone think it would be easier sanding down to near bare metal

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I want to do gloss white on my black car

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I'm pretty sure that's a crime. If it isn't, it should be. Maybe it's just me

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Thanks, actually for now. I do not have any plans to paint the car. I'd just like it uniform color/primer look. Can Rustoleum Primer be rolled on? How would that be thinned?

Thanks

---

Yes... you can do the primer with a roller. In fact further back in this discussion thread, there was a link to a body shop association web site where they were actually lauding the 'rolling' of primer instead of spraying it. It would seem that the auto body industry is calling the 'rolling of primer' the next logical thing for shops to implement. Save application time... cuts down on noxious gases in the air ( enviromentally friendly ) etc.

I think the previous discussion in this thread about the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer was mixed on whether to thin it or use it 'straight'. It would appear that both work and the merits of either way balance out no matter which way you go...

If you thin the primer :

PRO : By thinning it you can get it to lay down smoother and it cures quicker...

CON : By thinning the primer you may affect its adhesion quality. You also will have a thinner primer surface to work with when you sand it prior to painting.

If you apply the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer straight from the can..

PRO : You will get a thicker layer of primer to help cover minor surface glitches and you will have a thicker surface to work with when sanding prior to painting. Adhesion should be at its best since you are using the primer in an untampered state.

CON : The curing time of the primer will be longer because the primer is thicker.

With the Brightside Pre-Cote primer... both of the above things apply.

With the Brightside Pre-Cote primer you can add 50% of your chosen color to the primer to give it a heads start towards the end color.

The same may apply with the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer. In that you would lay down an initial layer of straight primer. Then you would follow up with a second layer that is a blend 50% - 50% of the Tremclad/Rustoleum primer and the end color paint.

.

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Thanks. So how would i thin Rustoleum primer? I'd like to stick to that because i can get it locally with no hassle. I wouldnt stray too far from out of the can, just a little thinner is what i would prefer. If i remember right it is laytex based, so how could i thin the primer?

Thanks!

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quite honestly primer is just a wast of time with this method and THIS paint, remember what it's called, and what it's original intent is for. primer just adds work, and helps those who are insecure sleep like little babies!!!, if you do prime, it's only adding a extra layer of paint that adds to less structual stability, and allows the paint to chip eaiser than without primer, and a thin layer of paint. this paint is allready formulated to be painted over rusted metal, auto paints are not, that's where the primer comes in (not to be used over rust) but you get my point. i would absoultly never strip a car to bare metal UNLESS: paint is peeling/cracking, or there is allready over 3 layers of previous paint jobs, even in the later case i would only strip down to the last "original" paint, and go over that, you can tell when your fixing rust, where and how many layers of paint there are on the car.

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Well its not really that im 'insecure' over the paint. It is just that i don't actually want to paint a color red/blue/green/etc at the moment, and i dont want to worry about polishing the finish and such. I want the car one color. I'd rather not worry about peel, wetsanding, or polishing. If i can thin the primer, roll it on and not have a care for orange peel or polishing? thats what i'm looking for at the moment.

So how is it thinned?

Thanks.

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how do i go about solving this?

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