tried to post a pic, but even after resizing it on the phone, still too big. I which they would just allow any size pic to be uploaded and then resize it on the server....

Keep cropping until it's small enough.

Glad you found the issue.

3 bolts on the...steering box was loose? Good thing you found it; potentially dangerous.

Well, still not it...

figured that was the smoking gun... but not, ended up taking it around the block (for the first time), and it is still there. Steering appears much tighter, but still has the wabble.

It has unilug cragars on it, so I pulled them off, checked everything (suspension wise) and it appears tight (on the lift). I removed the wheels and was careful in putting the unilugs back on, but still the same issue.

Checked the runout on the rotors <0.001" bearings appear tight, rims are straight (by the rotate eyeball method), no bulges in the tire in the sidewall or tread (again by the rotate eyeball method).

I do have another set of rims/tires I could put on the front (again unilugs), but might try that to debug.

At a lost and getting extremely frustrated (with this an everything else)...

I think you are going to be a happy man real soon.

I'd try another set of rims. I bought a brand new set of unilug Cragars in the 90's and it never drove right. Tried everything, balancing, rotating, etc.
Finally figured out they weren't true.
It's the rims

for what it's worth. FSM's of the era state maximum runout where the bead seats as : radial runout [up and down] - .035, lateral runout [side to side] - .045. with tire mounted : radial runout [measured at the center of the tread] - .080, lateral runout [measured at the sidewall] - .105.
sometimes it is necessary to rotate the tire on the rim to get the best results because the tire and rim both may pass standards, but when mated, are way off.

BUMPSTEER! Jack the car up until wheels are off the ground and measure toe-in and toe-out.one wheel can be towed in while the other is toe-out.then loosen t-bars and lower the car all the way down and measure toe.I bet you will find your problem.The old mopar chassie book will tell you how to fix.

What does John say? Want me to come over and take a look?

I had the welds break on that piece where the lower control bolts into the k-frame years back and acted like what you have going on

IDK, did not look at it tonight, tried to get the '73 ready to try to take it to Milford Friday.

John was thinking something in the tire (belt or something), but I don't see anything.

I don't think it is bump steer issue as it is an all original suspension / parts and it has the "wabble" on a flat road.

As far as welds breaking, this could still be a factor, but in my inspection it does not appear to be the case (I have not seen anything, but, eyes are only so good). Yes, it is a 67 (weak) k-frame, but this happens on just driving straight, no "performance" driving, I assume (maybe falsely) that all '67 a-bodies did not wander all over the road going straight on smooth level roads?

No you are right, as we know there is something going on. I cant wait to find out what it is.

Did you check the pitman and idler arms. I had a pitman totally break in half. Turns out it was cracked and the idler as well. Bought a new pitman and idler. They too had hairline cracks. Went through several sets before finding clean parts.

That would be crazy! I looked at them, but honestly I don't think I would have seen a hair line crack.

It is the orig pitman arm, with a NOS Moog idler arm (hard to find part for a '67).

Today's mini update...

Put a different set of rims/tires on. They were unilug aluminum slots, but they have recesses for the unilug washers. I thought I had a set of steel rims / tires, but they are small bolt (and this is big bolt).

Now, I am checking (as best as I can) the alignment / toe with the fastracks... Well see what I find...???

Too bad you are not closer! I have all sorts of rally and other wheels you could try. I have stuff I may never use.

Well I think I found out what it was... Should have been the first thing I should have checked!!!

The wheels were toed OUT, only slightly but but about a 1/16-1/8.

I toed them back in and it is MUCH better, need to get a real alignment now!

The steering box was definitely loose, which was a factor, or maybe a symptom, and it might never have been completely tight.

Toe out, I never woulda thought!

Don’t feel bad, I had this annoying front end thunk that I chased for a year. Changed lower ball joint, lower control arm bushing. No change! Finally got the wife in the car to turn the wheel a little back and forth while I watched. Out of the corner of my eye I see the k frame move just a hair. All four bolts had back off to finger tight! Doh! I remember thinking when I tightened them the first time “These are forty year old rusty threads that would be a diaster if you strip them!” This time, IMPACT!