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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25258
07/28/06 12:08 AM
07/28/06 12:08 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Quote:
Actually, I think a cellphone would be better, maybe a  would help. It's one I picked up cheap years ago so that if it got bumped, bruised or lost on a kid's school trip, it wouldn't be a great loss.
I've never gotten around to getting a good one yet.
Maybe I should think about it one day 
sorry for the quality, but even grainy, it looks better than it did 
at least now you won't be ashamed to drive it!!!! i think it looks a million times better, great job.  
There's going to be a painted-with roller convention one of these days. I bet eventually, with more and more people learning about it, Maaco and the like will see a drop off in business from this technique. Not to mention increased sales of rustoleum and more places carrying stinky mineral spirits.
Better  for the Maaco mafia, 69charger 
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25259
07/28/06 08:31 AM
07/28/06 08:31 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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So I painted my car last week (with brightside). It looks great from far away as I said. Eh from up close. I'm trying to fix some of the up close spots now that I have time...
I have a bunch of spots with peel (I'll sand down and redo to take care of that no big deal)..
I also have a problem of some of my panels have roller marks on... I'm not sure how to get rid of them per se. The brush across it (4 inch foam brush) seemed to get rid of most. Any idea's? Should I just put down another coat after a wetsand and see if it goes away?
I also have a few roller lines that the paint is just not glossy.. The rest is however around it. Did I work that section to much? I'm not sure what would produce that...
And finally would polishing take care of any of these problems? I've not done any yet to the car. I've just been driving it because I needed my car.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25261
07/28/06 09:41 AM
07/28/06 09:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Actually, I think a cellphone would be better, maybe a would help. It's one I picked up cheap years ago so that if it got bumped, bruised or lost on a kid's school trip, it wouldn't be a great loss.
I've never gotten around to getting a good one yet.
Maybe I should think about it one day
sorry for the quality, but even grainy, it looks better than it did
at least now you won't be ashamed to drive it!!!! i think it looks a million times better, great job.
There's going to be a painted-with roller convention one of these days. I bet eventually, with more and more people learning about it, Maaco and the like will see a drop off in business from this technique. Not to mention increased sales of rustoleum and more places carrying stinky mineral spirits.
Better for the Maaco mafia, 69charger
i'm ready for them   i'm sure my roller possi will kick their a$$!!!!   
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25262
07/28/06 11:31 AM
07/28/06 11:31 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25263
07/28/06 12:45 PM
07/28/06 12:45 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
So I painted my car last week (with brightside). It looks great from far away as I said. Eh from up close. I'm trying to fix some of the up close spots now that I have time...
I have a bunch of spots with peel (I'll sand down and redo to take care of that no big deal)..
I also have a problem of some of my panels have roller marks on... I'm not sure how to get rid of them per se. The brush across it (4 inch foam brush) seemed to get rid of most. Any idea's? Should I just put down another coat after a wetsand and see if it goes away?
I also have a few roller lines that the paint is just not glossy.. The rest is however around it. Did I work that section to much? I'm not sure what would produce that...
And finally would polishing take care of any of these problems? I've not done any yet to the car. I've just been driving it because I needed my car.
Wetsand and polish will bring the gloss. Wetsanding should be able to remove the roller marks.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25264
07/28/06 06:29 PM
07/28/06 06:29 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Hey guys, sorry for chiming in. I was out of the loop when the first part of the thread was moved to the archives. Has there been any improvements in metods since the first thread? I saw the double roller metod, i was skimming through. Is there any 'ideal' mix between mineral spirits and paint thats been tested/proved to be good? Just wondering if there have been any discoveries/improvements over things since the first thread
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25267
07/29/06 12:40 AM
07/29/06 12:40 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,378
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Yes, that was my spreadsheet! Glad to see someone is using it. I do remember the 10-15% numbers, but in my experience (granted I am not measuring, just pouring) I would say it's up around 40% to get to get it thin enough. Very thin.
I will make a measurement soon. I think it also depends on the temperatures you're going to be painting in - in cold weather you might get away with a thicker mixture because it will have more time to lay down on its own because the solvents wont leave as quickly. I have been painting in 85 degree+ weather lately, and it works best for me when really thinned down.
10-15 percent - I can't imagine using anything that thick and not getting orange peel (which I personally try to avoid since I hate the wetsanding part). Then again, my paint job seems to take a few more coats than the "standard" 6..
Oh and about the VOCs.. all I know is that rustoleum told me that they were regulated VOC-wise on gallons, but not on quarts. And I read elsewhere that the lower VOC stuff wasn't as easy to work with, didn't perform as well or something. So I went with the quarts. I think the VOC is mostly related to the solvents in the paint, and since we are adding mineral spirits to it, the VOC of the original mixture might not have much of an effect. I just thought the higher VOC might be better for the paint job, but I really don't know specifically why. Quarts only cost a few more dollars for 4 vs. 1 gallon, so if there is any advantage, it's worth the extra $, if not, you might be able to returb an unused can if you don't end up needing a whole gallon, or you can keep a fresh, unopened quart can for backup. I'm just barely into my 3rd can, and I'm nearly done. I will probably get 1/2 way through the can when I am completely done with the engine bay, doors and such.
Last edited by Exit1965; 07/29/06 12:47 AM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25268
07/29/06 12:56 AM
07/29/06 12:56 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Yeah, I live in San Diego...last few days it's been 95, before that over 100 (116.2 one day) This weekend will be around 85...I'm gonna take advantage and start working on my car. I've been so excited for the last few weeks, reading and researching. I spent a bit more than most people have reported, but then I'm going gloss black so prep work needs to be immaculate. Well...off to get some prep work done  Edit: Thanks for you thoughts on VOC's. I'll return my gallon and get 4 quarts. My charger is a lot smaller than yours and 69charger's, so 3 will be more than enough. Keeping an extra quart handy is a good idea.
Last edited by 87glhs232; 07/29/06 01:02 AM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25269
07/29/06 03:53 AM
07/29/06 03:53 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Thanks for those that have responded. Can you guys recommend a recipie as far as mixture, sanding method, etc that would go under... * Hides flaws well * Covers well - 2-3 coats would do fine I'm looking to get my Duster all one color, not quite looking to spend many days while its 110* outside rolling and polishing. I'm thinking Pewter Grey as far as color, what mineral spirit/paint mix should go with. I'm new to mixing it to a actual consistancy, I would go with gallon sealable plastic measuring jug, pour the whole quart or however much, and mix the paint in one shot. And do the same for however many other coats are needed, but i'd like it the same coat to coat, not one way on the 1/4 and another on the hood.. 6" foam rollers still the weapon of choice? thanks, i'll be doing this maybe next week if i can find my color. Going for a primer look, just with the protection of paint.  
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25270
07/29/06 05:10 AM
07/29/06 05:10 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hi Everyone. My name is Camron ("Hi Camron"), and I'm addicted to reading "Paint job on a budget" on moparts.com!
I've been reading for over two weeks straight through from the beginning, each and every post. I was directed here from the Scirocco.org list, and here's my story:
Summer 2001, bought a beautiful shiny black (new paint) 1986.5 Scirocco 16V from Connecticut, shipped to Portland, OR. Babied the car, but early 2002 I was "sandwiched" when traffic stopped suddenly, and the driver behind me smashed my Scirocco into the car in front of me. The car was borderline totaled, but I decided to get the car fixed. The shop that did the work did an "adequate" job of getting the car back to normal, and looked pretty OK with BC/CC over new primer on 100% of the car for maybe 2+ years. The car then developed a funny spot on the hood, which a year later turned into peeling clearcoat. The paint and body shop was long gone, so I had to live with "ugly peeling hood", which had just gotten worse and spread to the rest of the car. The car looks SO BAD right now that it's an embarrassment to drive. As much as I loved my Scirocco, there was no way I was going to dump thousands in new paint for a totaled/rebuilt car.
Now things have changed! I have decided to try the Brightside paint, gloss Black, as there are at least two marine stores in my area, and finding the paint was easy.
MY QUESTIONS:
I do realize that it is necessary to remove ALL CLEARCOAT from the basecoat - peeling or not... what is the ideal method? Dry sand? Wet sand? Power sand? Grits?
Is it realistic to expect that I would be able to remove the CC without sanding through the BC to primer? Will Brightside apply and bond to this BC if properly prepped, or will I need to re-primer first?
OR is it necessary to also completely remove this basecoat before repriming and then painting?
Since the car had been in the bodyshop just a few years ago, there is very little in the way of bodywork needed... just a small door ding or two, maybe some light stone damage in the factory bodykit, and a couple spots that were "rust fixes" where the bondo swelled over time under the paint.
Thanks everyone, I'm ready to get to work!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25271
07/29/06 08:36 AM
07/29/06 08:36 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
I do realize that it is necessary to remove ALL CLEARCOAT from the basecoat - peeling or not... what is the ideal method? Dry sand? Wet sand? Power sand? Grits?
I would look upon this paint job the same as if you were taking it in to MAACO for one of their 'off the menu' paint jobs. Normally... when you bring in a car to MAACO to get a paint freshening... they do a 'scuff sand'. That removes the surface layer, scuffs up the current paint job to provide a substrate that the new paint can adhere to. If it was me and I was faced with your current situation... I would go to Home Depot and pick up some of the 220 Grit Norton's 3X sand paper. You get about 3 sheets of paper in a pack. I would basically aand down the entire surface to the point where everything is level and equally dulled ( scuffed ). Once that task is done I would wipe down the entire car with mineral spirits and a rag to remove all the residue, dust and crap that has been loosened by the sanding stage. The reason I would go with the 220 Grit is that it is fine enough to remove the paint and yet also fine enough to not leave scratches or swirls. If you are beginning with a black paint job... your scuffing should leave you with a black scuffed car. I would try to not take the sanding down to the primer level.
Quote:
Is it realistic to expect that I would be able to remove the CC without sanding through the BC to primer? Will Brightside apply and bond to this BC if properly prepped, or will I need to re-primer first?
From what I have seen with Brightside, it really doesn't care if you are putting it directly on metal, fiberglass, bondo or CC or BC. What is most important is that the surface you are painting on to is structurally sound ( ie don't paint over paint that is flaking off or peeling ) and make sure that the surface is at its smoothest and most level. The quality of your paint job will be directly related to how smooth the surface is that you are painting on to. This is doubly true of any black paint... where the reflection capability of black paint will amplify any flaws in the subsurface. Since you are black and are going black... you don't need a primer... because as we noted before the primer's main value to us is to provide a uniform color on the subsurface so that when the paint is applied it exhibits a uniform color on all the body. But a scuffed black paint job... that is going to have a black laid on it.. can basically use the scuffed black layer as the primer 'uniform' color layer.
Quote:
Since the car had been in the bodyshop just a few years ago, there is very little in the way of bodywork needed... just a small door ding or two, maybe some light stone damage in the factory bodykit, and a couple spots that were "rust fixes" where the bondo swelled over time under the paint.
As noted above... the better the body beneath the better the result when painted. A small door ding can become a real eye catcher when fresh black paint is applied and amplifies the look of the ding. I would try to work out the dings and put a black primer over the repaired area ( to level the 'uniform color' of the body prior to painting. It may take a little more time and work to prep your body... but with black paint being applied you almost need to in order to get a final result that is a one footer... as compared to a ten footer.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25273
07/29/06 12:38 PM
07/29/06 12:38 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks for the input! I'll put it to good use.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#25274
07/29/06 03:07 PM
07/29/06 03:07 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Quote:
Quote:
Can you guys recommend a recipie as far as mixture, sanding method, etc that would go under...
* Hides flaws well
* Covers well - 2-3 coats would do fine
Since you are hoping to end up at a mineral gray type color... I would suggest that you do one uniform PRIMER color on the entire car. In the photo you provided, it appears you have a black hood and a white or light colored body.
If the entire car is going to go to the mineral gray color.. you should decided if you want it to a dark mineral gray or a light mineral gray - because the primer color you apply to the body will impact the end color of the paint job. A white primer with a gray mineral applied over it will eventually give you a lighter looking mineral gray when the job is done - as compared to a car that began with a gray primer beneath.
I really liked the coating ability of the Interlux PRE-Cote primer. You can roll it on... using the same application methods that you will be later applying the paint. It hides just about everything colorwise and is thick enough that it can fill in any minor scratchs or swirls in the subsurface.
You could do two coats of the primer. The first coat would be straight our of the can and for the second coat you can cut the primer with 50% of the paint that you will subsequently be using to paint the body with.
For both primer coats I would follow sand the primered layers using a 400 grit to smooth the surface in preparation for the addition of the next layer.
If you are using the Brightside paint.. I think you will have to be ready to do about FIVE layers... Two for the primer painting layers and three for the actually painting with the color.
If you are planning to paint with the Tremclad/Rustoleum combination... I think you will have to be ready to do about TEN layers.. two for the primer painting layers and eight for the actually painting with the color of your choice.
From what I have read of Charger's comments regarding the Tremclad/Rustoleum... he usually goes directly to paint with the mineral spirt cut paint and doesn't go to a primer level first. But as we have noted with Exit's project car ( when he was using red, it took him up to 10 layers of painting to get a uniform color so that you could not see the ghost of various colors that were on the initial starting layer.
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Thanks, actually for now. I do not have any plans to paint the car. I'd just like it uniform color/primer look. Can Rustoleum Primer be rolled on? How would that be thinned?
So with not worrying about future car color, can i roll primer?
Also how are you guys storing things? As far as pre-mixed rustoleum paint? cleaning rollers? cleaning trays?
Thanks
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#25275
07/29/06 07:52 PM
07/29/06 07:52 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Boy...I spent most of the day preping and priming the driver side fender. It had been repainted, and I'm guessing there was a contaminant on the primer when they shot the base...it had polkadot spots all over the upper third, had to take it down to factory color. I'm also preping the front facia, which has a plethora of nooks and crannies  PITA! Oh well, prep is the key. Since I'm going with gloss black I'll take my time. To see what the car looked like before any work click here
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#25276
07/29/06 08:37 PM
07/29/06 08:37 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,475
Ontario, Canada
78D150CLUB
My avatar is a self portrait!!
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My avatar is a self portrait!!
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,475
Ontario, Canada
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...Submitted for your approval..A man destined by fate to a terrible paint job...until he stumbles onto a miraculous potion to relieve the agony...you are moving through a world of sight and color...there's the signpost up ahead....The TremClad Zone. (apologies to Rod Serling)  Looks a bit like my truck did early in the year, big difference now. I sort of rushed some of the bodywork on mine, but the nice thing is, I can go back and finish up, recoat and it will blend right in. Plus, if you want to add a coat or two a couple of year down the road, it's no problem. I hope it turns out well for you, I know I'm really impressed with my results.
I want to die like my Grampa, peacefully, in his sleep. Not screaming in terror like his passengers.
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to you and 69charger. You guys are DIY saints. 
