Quote:

---

So I had a friend who does newer little light trucks come up to me and ask me if I knew about the Mopar website with the rustoleum paint jobs. He has no idea I'm a longtime moparts member. I can't believe how this thread just keeps going and going and going. I saw it months ago and it's still active. Must be a record. 69Chargeryeehaa must be up for some sort of automotive sainthood for the interest he's generated across all segments of the automotive hobby. You're like a working class hero, helper of the little guy, friend of the common hobbyist. I think I'll even try it myself. Never thought I'd slather Rustoleum across the quarter panels of a 1972 Dodge Charger, but I think it's on it's way. Even if I don't like the product or get frustrated, I can always go get the expensive paint job I was originally going to have to get anyhow. and now it's off to go find the cliff notes summary of this whole process. I'm not even gonna ask as I'm sure it's been summed up more than a few times. I'm a believer.

---

thanks man i'm just trying to spread the love, help a few buds out.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

i can tell you from expirence that that system won't work, you matters well just pour paint on your car, it will look better!!! ive used that system to paint a fence, the issues are that the roller design won't lay paint thin enough, the paint will dry too fast, and it regulates paint flow too fast, so you end up with too much paint, good for a fence/house, but NOT good for this application. you NEED to use a high density foam roller with the tremclad/rustoleum, maybe with the brightside paint a brush will do, cause the paint behaves differently, and looks as it self-levels better than the rustoleum/tremclad as MARQ has stated.

---

Hey Charger, I would have used the gun, not the roller. It says that it has a professional style sprayer. If you look through the site (not sure exactly what page) it will tell you a little about the spray gun.


Edit: Check out the FAQ page. Does the spraygun change your opinion at all

---

no, it would'nt, infact i played that game too, i just found it worked good for 10 mins, and then started spitting, back to home depot it went, besides the whole point about the roller is the ease, no-mess technique, and once you get the hang of it, it's super easy. inventory of things needed to paint, 1. roller, 2. paint tray, 3. paint, 4. tack cloth, 5. foam brushes, total cost about $20, result = priceless.

honestly, the roller method would be the ONLY way i would ever paint a car again if i were to paint a car myself, keep in mind, i've shot lots of single stage paint in my days, here's a example:



and that car above looks pro. BUT, i was high, batteling dust/dirt/bugs, and it made a huge mess, that's with a compressor and HVLP, duplicolor single stage, midnight metalic blue. my garage floor, walls, tools are a rainbow of colors i've painted over the years, i'm done with shooting paint in my garage, the roller is way too easy, plus i used one and a half gallons to paint that beetle, and 3/4 of a gallon to paint my charger which is 2 times the car!!!!

if your going to spray, use a HVLP gun, much better atomization, keep in mind what these wagner units are ment for, painting a fence, house, ect...not laying a 1 mil thin coat of paint.

here's a more recient pic of my charger, i can't see the difference, can you see the difference? roller it is then

Quote:

---

Hello all, this is the blind guy with the knight rider carr... not one reply to the polising question...

anyway, I did anothe coat and left my test piece out in the sun for almost 2 weeks... That should be plenty dry time... I will try the turtle wax polish again and see what happens... if it doesn't work out, then I'll try and find some stinky mineral spirits...

I do have a can of actual gloss black tremclad and clear coat... none of which I wanted to crack open until I had satisfactory results with the rustoleum... painted it was very shiny, but when I polished it with Turtle Wax it got dull...

Does anyone have a pic of tremclad / rustoleum with the brush on clear coat? It may be a couple of weeks before I get to that stage, just curious to see other's work. thanks.

Rafael

---

I don't remember the polishing question. If your polishing is not leaving a shine- try letting it cure longer, and do it when the temperature is cooler than hot, as hot seems to make the paint a bit softer. Also you might want to put some dry-time between sanding with 2000 and polishing.

When I polished up part of my red paint job, when I polished immediately after wetsanding the small test area, I got a haze. When I went to another part of the car, sanded with 2000, then came back the next day and polished, it polished really well. The difference could have been that it got to dry longer, AND/OR that I gave it some time to settle/dry after wetsanding it.

But doing both of those things should help, and couldn't hurt. That's my plan for my canvas white paint job too. 3 weeks of curing, wetsand with 2000, wait a day or two, then polish.


edit; another variable just came into mind between the first (hazy) and second (good) polish, so now I have NO IDEA what specifically helped me polish better the 2nd time around. The first time, I remember using the soft pad that came with my cheap coleman 6" random orbital buffer. The second time (successful time), I was using the one that's more like a cloth than a pad and seems to be harsher than the pad.

Hope this helps, sorry if it confuses! They are things to try, anyway.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I was planning on getting it anyway to paint the house, but if you guys think it would work with Rustoleum for a car, then it would make my decision to buy it easier by knowing that I could use it for the car as well.

---

The only thing that I have seen on the topic of sprayers that relates to the topic of car painting with Rustoleum/Tremclad or Brightside is that it needs to be 'HVLP' - high volume low pressure.

I believe that the unit you are looking at would probably work with the paint thinned down to the appropriate level for spraying.

But as noted by one of the other spray testers here, I would keep a supply of handy rollers at your side throughout the spraying to level out all the runs that may ( probably will ) occur.

The key thing to keep in mind when considering spraying is the 'overspray' - where 30% of your paint/thinner mix gets blown into the air and lands just about everywhere except on the car body.

Once the paint is airborne it will mist your entire garage interior with a colorful glow that oddly matches the color you chose for your car body. Lawnmowers, garbage cans, the cats litter, your tool boxes... spare tires, etc all take on this mystic glow.

If you choose to spray 'outside' then expect the overspray to magically appear on anything within airborne radius of your spraying zone... squirrels, cats, grass, the driveway, the neighbors car, etc.

If you are already buying the unit anyhow... then I would say GO AHEAD and experiment with it. You just might get lucky and dial in on a knock out of a paint job. But definitely keep a roller handy to catch those runs or paint splotches that are almost certain to happen.

However, just remember the Charger explanation for the 'roller' paint job.... it was to minimize paint overspray and mess to the minimum.

To paraphrase the old military saying of ' If you got them... smoke them... "... I would say " If you have a sprayer at your disposal... give it a shot'. It can't do anything that a little sandpaper can't remove.

.

---

Quote:

---

I have a sprayer much like the ones you guys are talking about, I love it painted my house in an hour
(after triming out the windows and such, that took two days) the nozzle it came with is for spraying latex house paint right out of the bucket.
A .017 I think but you can purchase as low as a.004 nozzle for spraying stain.
Just for fun I shot an old D50 truck bed and it looked real smooth!! truck was junk anyway and full of rust holes.
I really thought about using it years before reading any of this.
BEWARE!! it does shoot ALOT of paint at once. One pass coverage two passes and run city

---

Quote:

---

Hello all, this is the blind guy with the knight rider carr... not one reply to the polising question...

anyway, I did anothe coat and left my test piece out in the sun for almost 2 weeks... That should be plenty dry time... I will try the turtle wax polish again and see what happens... if it doesn't work out, then I'll try and find some stinky mineral spirits...

I do have a can of actual gloss black tremclad and clear coat... none of which I wanted to crack open until I had satisfactory results with the rustoleum... painted it was very shiny, but when I polished it with Turtle Wax it got dull...

Does anyone have a pic of tremclad / rustoleum with the brush on clear coat? It may be a couple of weeks before I get to that stage, just curious to see other's work. thanks.

Rafael

---

i polish the day after the last coat, but allow overnight to dry, with fans on the car, that really helps. the fans go on the car about 4 hours after paint, after that it's dry enough to get dust on the paint, but not stick. the other thing i notice is that most people think they should get instant results with the polishing, and buff the hood for 5 mins, and expect a mirror shine. the reality is that the turtle wax polishing compound is about a 3000-3500 grit compound, very very fine compound, that's what allows you to buff on soft paint with no chance of burning, or over buffing, and it would take me about a hour (yes, 1 hour minimum) just to buff the hood. this is after wetsanding with 1000+ after the last coat. Also i ONLY use the bonnets that look like a rag, terry cloth bonnets i believe, using lots of compound and LOTS of water.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Hello all, this is the blind guy with the knight rider carr... not one reply to the polising question...

anyway, I did anothe coat and left my test piece out in the sun for almost 2 weeks... That should be plenty dry time... I will try the turtle wax polish again and see what happens... if it doesn't work out, then I'll try and find some stinky mineral spirits...

I do have a can of actual gloss black tremclad and clear coat... none of which I wanted to crack open until I had satisfactory results with the rustoleum... painted it was very shiny, but when I polished it with Turtle Wax it got dull...

Does anyone have a pic of tremclad / rustoleum with the brush on clear coat? It may be a couple of weeks before I get to that stage, just curious to see other's work. thanks.

Rafael

---

i polish the day after the last coat, but allow overnight to dry, with fans on the car, that really helps. the fans go on the car about 4 hours after paint, after that it's dry enough to get dust on the paint, but not stick. the other thing i notice is that most people think they should get instant results with the polishing, and buff the hood for 5 mins, and expect a mirror shine. the reality is that the turtle wax polishing compound is about a 3000-3500 grit compound, very very fine compound, that's what allows you to buff on soft paint with no chance of burning, or over buffing, and it would take me about a hour (yes, 1 hour minimum) just to buff the hood. this is after wetsanding with 1000+ after the last coat. Also i ONLY use the bonnets that look like a rag, terry cloth bonnets i believe, using lots of compound and LOTS of water.

---

Quote:

---

This is how it looks as of this afternoon.

---

D150, I think that looks good-- but it's hard to tell with all the grainyness. Is that a cellphone cam or something? Maybe take the paint job savings and get a newer digicam.

Quote:

---

I changed from gloss black to gloss white and have a few coats on the car now and it looks very good.

I can hardly wait to finish and be able to say i did it with a roller and rustoleum paint, when someone asks who painted it.

I'll never have another car with a bad paint job, this is just too easy.

Thanks again Charger69yeehaa

---

your welcome

Quote:

---

Actually, I think a cellphone would be better, maybe a would help. It's one I picked up cheap years ago so that if it got bumped, bruised or lost on a kid's school trip, it wouldn't be a great loss.
I've never gotten around to getting a good one yet.
Maybe I should think about it one day
sorry for the quality, but even grainy, it looks better than it did

---

at least now you won't be ashamed to drive it!!!! i think it looks a million times better, great job.