You can bet all you have that the clutch broke that gear. You need to get out of your head that there is a different clutch for the street and strip.

You need a sintered iron disc and an adjustable pressure plate. McLeod calls it the Sof-Lok clutch. Doesn't matter the name.

I can tell you what breaks parts. It's the plate load and clutch engagement time. Those two are what breaks parts. It's not 1979 any more. 3000, even 2000 pounds of static pressure is way more than you need with the correct disc.

Some people say you need the clutch to slip. That is an inaccurate way to say it. You don't want the disc to get to flywheel RPM in an instant. A sintered iron disc and a correctly tuned pressure plate will allow the disc to get to flywheel RPM at a controlled rate, rather than almost an instant.

You can do that with a rag disc, although the disc doesn't like it very much, and the rag disc requires more plate load than the sintered iron disc. Those bronze/metallic/carbon fiber discs do not like to "slipped" at all. They will have very little life.

With the sintered iron disc, you have a disc with a much higher coefficient of friction so it requires much less plate load than other discs and it will take what most call slipping much longer than other discs.


There is also the part that Grant sells (weed burner). It mechanically controls the amount of time before the clutch achieves lock up.

Either way, doesn't matter if you shift with the clutch, drive it on the street most of the time or anything else, your clutch is breaking your parts.

Bet on it.

The "forever" solution is a slipper clutch mated to a G Force GF5R.

This is the first time that I heard that a slipping clutch disc will lower your ET. Nothing like the stench of a burnt clutch disc at the end of your quarter mile run. Or while you have to set your shift point 1,000 RPM lower because as the slipping clutch is doing it's thing you don't over rev the engine, OH, that's what rev limiters are for. I'll stick to a clutch set up that hooks thank you.

The Hillbilly Slipper...

https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=442492

As I've said, you aren't slipping the clutch. You are controlling clutch engagement. Two totally different things.

You won't smell any clutch burning because that's not what it does.


I've never seen a car that didn't go faster with controlled clutch engagement.

After talking to my friends at East West Clutch madscientist is right.
The next clutch I get will be an iron disk and adjustable weights.
I talked to Black Magic as well and they said the same thing.

The other problem with the car is it doesn't have enough starting line ratio but I'm not going to change it.

Now for the big question - which clutch?

Black Magic
Ram
Other

I like Black Magic because Cale Aronson is not only incredibly helpful, but a damn smart guy. So is his wife Tinsey. Tinsey is as good a clutch tuner as anyone else.

I also like Rob Youngblood as he is damn helpful as well.

Hyatt Clutches is good to deal with.


The best thing I can say is to call them all and see who you get on with the best and then work with them to get you squared away. All the clutch guys I mentioned are top notch people and will bend over backwards to make you go fast and not break parts.


Keep us posted how thing are going. There are lots of stick guys out there who can learn from what you are doing.

You will likely grow tired of juggling weights vs base for a casual street/strip car. Not being able to be spontaneous on the street will take some fun out of it, worse yet when you lack starting line ratio.

If you do go Long/adjustable, get a version that has enough base that you won't have to rely on added weights to hold the engine's power. You'll still be able to dial base back and play with the weights to a lesser extent, but will also have the option of removing all the weights and cranking up the base just enough to hold the engine without being violent.

It's nice to be able to roll into the throttle without downshifting or burning up the clutch.

Grant