WHO HAS THE BEST STROKER KIT FOR A 440. I WANT TO BE 510 TO 520 CUBIC INCH AND 750 TO 800 HORSE.

440source? .com it.

What do you mean by "best". Do you mean cheapest?, strongest?, best value?

440Source is usually the cheapest. SCAT has rotating assemblies with a Mahle piston which I think is better than the ICON piston that 440Source uses. You can also get a K1, JE combo which works really well. Lots of choices.

Instead of asking for best you should tell us what you're trying to do. What heads do you have? What compression ratio do you want to run? What bore size? How deep do the valve pockets need to be?

I WANT THE BEST. I HAVE STAGE 6 HEADS I WANT TO BE 12.5 TO 13 COMP. BORE SIZE WILL DEPEND ON THE KIT. I WILL RUN A ROLLER CAM.

I used Molnar crank and rods.

Mahle pistons.

All of it was very nice stuff!

There is no "kit" but AndyF has a good piston selection chart in the tech section that helps you with your selection.

Check out the discount section on 440source. Looks like a good deal on a crank and set of rods.

And they are fine at 750/800 hp

If you want the best, and plan on using a stock block, invest in a center wieghted crank to make the block live a long life. I highly sugest you go with a 400 block also at the power level you want. When you say best, then talk to some of the great engine builders on this board and have them set you up with individual choices for pistons, etc. Your best results will come from going that route. Ask me how i know😀😀 your dyno results will love you for it!

I have Molnar also with JE pistons....excellent quality on the crank and rods.

What cc are the heads? You'll need to know that to pick the correct piston. There might not be an off the shelf stroker kit that gives you what you want. If it was me I'd use a Molnar crank with 7.100 rods and then look for a piston that gave me the compression ratio I wanted.

Are your Stage VI heads any good? I think they would be the weak link in your engine.

Spoiler Alert: Sarcasm ahead!!!!!

He did say BEST.....

If you want the BEST then you start with a Winberg or Sonny Leonard billet crank, Carrillo or Crower rods (there are others but key is they have to cost over $1000 per set), Gibtec billet pistons, pins with DLC coating. You'll have $5000+ in the rotating assembly, but it will be the best at least the best made in USA stuff.

Then it goes in an aftermarket block, because it'd be a shame for a stock block to wipe out that amount of money in parts.

Then you put your Stage VI heads on Ebay and buy heads that really work.

Or maybe you didn't understand the meaning of the word, "best".

R.

Two “problems” I see with the proposed build of “750-800hp”.

The stock block and stage 6 heads.

The stock block will break(at some point), and the stage 6 heads likely aren’t big enough to make 750-800hp(unless they are the big Chapman’s).....without help from spray or boost.

If the goal is a “real” 750-800hp NA for a reliable bracket type build, I think the plan could use a few revisions.

Who is Sonny Leonard? I know Sonny BRYANT makes crankshafts but not so sure about Sonny Leonard

I agree with the above post about the stock block, it would be a shame to put all that money into an engine and the block fail and trust me it will.

I believe a 400 block with a good aluminum main cap and good aluminum rods will live for a while at 800hp but only for a while.

I wouldn't spend a bunch on crank and rods for a stock block build b/c when the block breaks, it'll likely take the rotating assembly with it.

Like Fast68 and dogdays said, you need better cylinder heads.

Just dial the expectations down a bit and the combo will be fine. A 440Source kit with Stage VI heads should make 600 hp all day long and last a long time in a stock block.

700 hp would require some professional engine builder help with the cylinder heads and cam profile.

800 hp is very unlikely.....

If the stage 6’s will in fact be used, along with a stock block, I’d build either a 505RB or 511B, flat top pistons, easy on parts roller cam, and it would make whatever it makes.... which should still be enough to cause some issues for the stock block.

With std port stage 6’s, I don’t feel that 700hp would be a “slam dunk” by any means, on the dyno here.

You could always swap out the top end down the road for something more suited towards bigger power numbers......if you feel that you’d like to expidite the demise of the block.

Stage VI heads on a 440 block require special intake manifold or funky spacers.

Personally I'd sell the Stage VI heads and buy Trick Flows but I understand if a person is going to use what they have. I usually build with what I have on hand too.

I have a strong suspicion the OP has the stage 6 RB intake already.

Not sure why everyone sez there's a for sure limit on power being the 'block breaker" cos there's more than a few 400 based turbo motors I've seen over the years in the 8's and living even w/stock caps. Detonation can end an aftermarket blocks life just as easily cos we've all seen that a few times and my lowly 9 second 470 is still ticking and kickin..........

I SENT THEM TO DUANE PORTER LAST YEAR.

Never heard of him...

That is the right guy to send them to. If Dwayne did the heads then you should be ready to go. He'll probably have a record of what the combustion chamber size is too and he can provide you with a cam recommendation if you don't already have a cam.

Do you have a Stage VI intake? If so, 4150 or 4500? You'll need a 4500 intake and carb to make the bigger power.

Let’s cut to the chase.... what ET/mph you looking for?

well, if you don't have a stage VI RB intake manifold, one just got posted in the race parts section here...

If it's the 4500 piece, that intake along with a 1050 really woke my 498 mech cam StageVI junk up.

I HAVE A STAGE 6 INTAKE 4150. I KNOW I WILL NEED A DIFFERENT INTAKE TO RUN A 4500 CARB. I AM LOOKING TO HIGH 9'S.

What kind of car & weight ?

67 BARRACUDA 3300 LBS WITH DRIVER.

You don't need a big stroker to run in the high 9's

Any idea what the typical DA is where you race?

And for those keeping score....... I didn’t port Ricks heads...... I repaired them.
They were suffering from the “not all that ususual for stage 6’s, the valve seats are loose syndrome”.

They’re std port stage 6’s with similar flow numbers to BradH’s old 6’s.

I’d probably lean towards to low deck 511 build myself.
The 400 block is generally tougher and that combo can use a std RB intake manifold.

Flat tops .005 down the hole and .040 gaskets, heads at 72-73cc, would put it at right about 12.5:1cr.

I’d probably open the heads to MW size and run either an Indy 440-3 or the Edelbrock SV.

Put enough cam in it, should work pretty well.

That being said....... if it were in the budget, better flowing heads wouldn’t be a bad thing.

Sonny Leonard is a famous mountain motor builder. Sorry for the mixup.

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/inside-scoop-sonny-leonards-new-820ci-marine-engine/

R.

1. It's Dwayne, not Duane... I've written him enough checks over the years to know that.

2. ALL CAPS is considered "YELLING!". Please flip off the caps lock, except when punctuation requires it.

Given what your old car in your signature ran, I think you'd agree that you don't need a stroker at all to run high 9s. A well-built 440/451 can do it with the right car combination, but it's not the way most people choose to go about it these days.

According to my no's in a 3300lb all in car you only need 672fwhp on track to run S/G times@135mph.....Moroso s/rule will show even less.

You don't need 500+ cubes to do it, 440/451 as said, put some decent gears in it (4.56+), and let it 60 and rev through the traps. 7k+

[quote
You don't need 500+ cubes to do it, 440/451 as said, put some decent gears in it (4.56+), and let it 60 and rev through the traps. 7k+ [/quote]


4.56 gears Dwayne Porter spec cam Indy ez-1 heads dominator carb ...then let her eat

A build like this should easily make 1.25ft/lb per ci.

You have to buy a crank, rods, and pistons anyway...... the extra cubes are free.
I’ll take the extra 80ft/lbs of torque for no additional charge please.

The Moroso chart shows 650hp for a 9.80@3300lbs.
I’d be targeting a solid 10%+ over that to account for a less that optimal chassis set up and air quality/density.

Just lose 500 pounds and do it with 906 heads, stock rods and crank, TRW pistons, and old school technology like we did 30 plus years ago. You guys are spoiled. Lol 😂

👍For the guys still doing it that way!

DUANE I WILL BE CALLING YOU FOR A CAM WHEN I GET THIS STARTED

I AM OLD. THE CAPS ARE ON SO I CAN READ THE DAM THING.

😂

Another way to go about it, if you aren’t up for buying any top end parts initially, and don’t like the prospect of potentially having to buy stuff more than once...... build the RB 505 and reuse your entire top end.
Then, if that doesn’t get you where you want to be....... replace the top end with something “bigger”, and sell off what you have.

If you do a low deck, you’ll have to buy an intake, then when you upgraded the heads, you’d have to buy another one.

LOL. try hitting two keys on your keyboard at the same time.
the ctrl key, and the "+" key or the "-", you can make the browser bigger or smaller and turn the caps key off...

WoW I'm not that old but I learned something today!

"Ctrl + mousewheel" also works
"Ctrl + 0" to reset the zooming back to normal

EDIT: No more Mr. Funny Guy