13,5 volt regardless which rpm. from idle to 3000 rpm rocksteady

Off the top my head, 13.5 Volts is on the low side of acceptable. Check the FSM and adjust the regulator.

You haven't mentioned what the ammeter reads. The ammeter shows how much the battery is charging or discharging. This is a very useful tool in diagnosing charging system issues.

You definately have a loose connection. This needs to be fixed first.

If you're wiggling the wire then its likely something to do with the wire.
However its possible the connector or ammeter stud itself is loose. Depending on how the ammeter was constructed, on some, if itgot overheated and the plastic warped or melted, the internal connection to the shunt can get loose. So if you can feel some movement in the stud - that's a possibility.

If you put both ring terminals together and the connection still needs wiggling - then the problem is definately in the wires or wire terminals.
PLEASE disconnect the battery if taking either ring terminal off, but esp the red one from the battery.
Observe in the diagram those wires are always connected to the battery positive. They are hot at all times! Touch any bare copper portion to bare metal and the battery will discharge as much power as it can to ground.

For the older VR it's int eh middle depending on temperature, but as said check and adjust if needed.

still dont get it. thought i was over it. had several readings abobe 14,5 volts. today the mofo (^^) deceided to stop charging. batt dead . put another batt in , still no charging. what i dont get is that i putt a direct wire from the alt to the bat. no charging-_-

Your alternator has two connections in the back of it. A stud that is the output and a spade terminal that is the input to turn it on.

take your meter, engine off, key in run and what is your reading at the stud?
It should be close to battery voltage. If it is then that part is probably good.

Take you meter, engine running, what is your reading at the spade connection (all wires connected)? Should be switched 12V, you may not see it switching unless you have an analog meter. If you have nothing there then you problem is in the input side.

Let us know and we can troubleshoot from there.

You need switched 12V to the "ign" terminal on the reg/green wire from "grn" terminal on the reg to the 1/4 male spade (field) terminal on the alt. I didn't go back to see if you have a later 2 field terminal alt but if so & you have the OE "box" type of reg then the other alt 1/4 male spade terminal needs to be grounded to the nearby alt case. & with your meter there needs to be continuity between the (2) alt male field terminals (pull a batt cable before switching the meter to ohms).

used a digital. stud is close to batt. Spade no readings

Ok, the spade get it's power from the VR, see the diagram above.

Go to the VR and measure the voltage on both connections.

the one labeled FLD goes to the alternator, the VR will cycle the output on/off to control the alternator.

the one labeled IGN splices into the switched 12V that also feeds the ballast resistor. Since your engine runs we can probably assume that the 12V to that splice. is good for now.

now work backwards from the spade, GRN terminal on reg, IGN terminal on reg, bulkhead (blue wire ign1 run terminal). should be hot with key "on"

multimeter neg cable to batt-neg. pos-cable to fld on reg. no readings.

other side on the reg is 12,4 volts

Ok, VR is bad. I used to have a problem with the fusible link INSIDE the VR itself blowing all the time. So I just replaced is with a thicker strand of wire.

This is only applicable to the mechanical VR, if that's what you have. The wire in yellow in the pic.

although it's a new alt and it charged before I measured again from the stud to case. Only shows the bat voltage. Put back in the old and working mech regulator. Still no readings on the fly reg spade. Alternator dead?

it's the regulator. the voltage come from the flied connection on the regulator to the alternator. If it does not then your alternator will never charge.

As a very temporary test you can run a jumper from the battery positive to the field connection on the alternator and measure the alternator output, it will charge if the alternator is good. What you have just done is bypass the regulator altogether and told the alternator to put out now.

Just run this test long enough to verify alternator output.

Disconnect the field wire and run the jump er?

You can disconnect the field wire if you want to

Still not charging

then your alternator took a dump and took out the regulator as well.

but why ia it eating regs and alts?

I don't buy reman alternators just because of this kind of thing. If you have a local rebuilder take it to them. If you don't find one you can ship it to. I've taken to doing my own because of shoddy third world crapsmanship.

Put back in the old alternator and bought new regs (again). And the car charges beautifully. So the other regulators must have been dead ootb and the new alt was shot also.

Thanks for the help.