It was wild raspberry tremclad paint bought at Canadian Tire Store in my part of Canada. I did the test piece in February 06.
The Tremclad paint is now sold in tintable bases, not sure what it's like though.
I have had discussion with the Tremclad people in Toronto, The Rustoleum corp now owns Tremclad but the Tremclad paint is still a different product and formulation. It did utilize some part of the rustoleum formulation, in order to get tremclad more resistant to fading, a problem Tremclad was having in the past.
Tremclads chemist did explain the difference, it was based on formulation as well as VOC laws differing between Canada and the USA.
Hope this helps and good luck with your rolling.............C38Coupe

look for this container at an automotive paint store. its a blue container and made esp. for your situation and its almost like clear white inside. white cap , white writings..lol sorry dont know the brand name. also bulldog works too. just scuff it.




as for rustoleum and tremclad being the same..i always new it was different but simmiliar...when someone showed their miata finishing job, i mentioned it was tremclad that he painted it with and not rustoleum...anyhow, im buffing the car today, i should have pics tonight!

ON THE TOPIC OF INTERLUX PRECOTE PRIMER
AND
SIX INCH HIGH DENSITY FOAM ROLLERS...

I was playing around today with the Interlux PreCote primer. It comes in two basic flavors... a white primer and a blue-gray primer.

The folks at Interlux recommend you use the 'blue-gray' primer for the dark Brightside colors... like black, dark blue, racing green etc.

They don't really give you any clue which primer would work best with Fire Red. I guess if you cut the white primer 50% with the Fire Red you would end up with a nice vanilla cherry base coat... and if you use the blue-gray primer and cut it with 50% Fire Red paint you will end up with something that is bordering on a blown / purplish primer. So just by choosing either the white primer or the blue-gray primer will have an impact on the final resulting color after you lay a few layers of straight paint over the primer.

For my latest experiment with this primer I took the 'blue gray' and cut it with 50% Fire Red.

The primer rolls on and is EXCELLENT at providing hiding coverage to any of the colors that were on the test piece. So I can now say, based on first hand experience, that this primer will definitely give you one uniform color after it is applie.

The primer self levels quite nicely and using the 4 inch roller produces NO bubbles. It just goes on and starts self levelling. Within about 3 hours it appeared to be cured. But I will wait until tomorow to give it a little rub down with 1000 grit paper.

I give this stuff 'two thumbs up'... it was amasing to work with.

--------------

On other news fronts... I was at the local paint specialty store ( Benjamin Moore ) and was curious about larger high density foam rollers.

Interestingly they had SIX INCH VERSIONS of that same lovable 4 inch high density foam roller. And it clips on to the 4 inch roller handle without any problems.

While over at Home Depot I noticed they too now had the six inch high density foam rollers in stock. This is something that they did not have up to two weeks ago....

Home Deport was charging about $6.50 for two... whereas the Benjamin Moore paint store was selling the same thing for $2.25 EACH. I don't know how to explain why Home Depot is charging far more than a boutique paint store...

I thought I would mention this for folks who might want to lay down more coverage with each pass of their roller. This will also cut down on the number of 'wet edge lines' that you get with the 4 inch roller. For example, if you go over a 24 inch wide surface with a 4 inch roller, it will take six passes and leave a potential 6 'wet edge lines'. Whereas with a six inch high density roller you would only make 4 passes and only rish 4 potential 'wet edge lines'.

I picked up 4 of these six inch rollers and will give them a try when I go to lay some paint on this freshly primered test piece.

...

Did you go over the freshly rolled area with a foam brush or another "exploded tip" brush like it is reccommended? And how long did you wait before brushing over the wet paint? I am curious about that second brushing procedure to get it to self level.

If we are talking about the Brightside paint... if you are doing the 'roll and tip' method to remove the bubbles... it should be done very soon after the layer of paint is put on. This gives the popped bubble the maximum chance to merge in with the paint and become self leveled. If you wait tooo long... the paint and the bubble will have started to get 'tacky' and the movement of the brush over a tacky surface would just create extra work for you sanding the surface.

One thing I noticed about the Brightside paint is that it is possible to treat it just like Rustoleum/Tremclad.. in that you can add extra 'brushing fluid' ( Interlux product number 333 ). You can basically wet the Brightside paint to as thin as the Tremclad paint. When the paint is thinned to this consistency it paints on thinner... but the bubbles have a tendency to self-pop just like the diluted Tremclad.

The only problem with using highly diluted Brightside is that it will obviously take more coats to get full coverage... and you will need to revert to just straight uncut Brightside for the final layer in order to get the maximum shine and gloss on that final layer. ( Highly thinned Brightside doesn't produce anything near the high gloss of the unthinned product ).

Now... if you were talking about using the roll and tip with the Tremclad/Rustoleum paint the same rules probably apply. It is best to pass the magic brush over the bubbles as soon after applying the paint. Since the coating of Tremclad/Rustoleum is pretty thin it should only take a very light passing of the brush.

I have been doing some additional reading about the 'roll and tip' method used by boater and the 'very best' results that they obtain seem to be one of the following two methods :

a ) use your one favorite 4" china bristle paint brush... and between each panel put it in the mineral spirit or thinning fluid to clean the brush... or

b ) if you are using the disposable foam brushes... try to use three brushes... one for each side of the car and one for the hood and trunk.

The biggest problem the boaters find with the 'roll and tip' is that the 'tipping brush' tends to load up with paint.

If you are only using one tipping brush and if it takes about one hour to completely walk around the car rolling and tipping... then the paint on the 'tipping brush' could conceivably be up to one hour old on the brush by the time you hit the last panel.

So by using a number of fresh brushes OR keeping your one good brush constantly cleaned between doing panels you can avoid the problem of 'paint build up' on the brush having an adverse effect on the effective smoothing of the coating you are popping bubbles on.

It all sounds so logical but it was hard to hunt down that little secret involving the 'roll and tip' method. I don't know if that is because the practitioners of the 'roll and tip' assume that everyone knows that... or if it is really a secret of the folks who take their 'roll and tip' methods seriously and don't like giving away their little trade secrets

.

Hello all, I have been a lurker since page 20 of the first thread and I am finally ready to paint.

Thank you very much Marq for trying and explaining how to use the boat paint. Please keep the pictures coming, the mustang convinced me to try it.

I have an orange 1970 porsche 914 that was repainted before I got it. Totally orange peeled and scratched. I have ordered some orange boat paint from epifane (20 bucks for 750ml) and will attempt this technique on my rear trunk lid to begin with. That company is the only one I could find that makes orange in a one-part eurathane.

My plan is to hit the old paint with a degreaser, wetsand with 320, then 400, then first coat of epifane with just a splash of thinner (mineral spirits according to the company), roll and tip, then sand with 600 once dry, then another coat very slightly thinned epifane, sand with 800, then 1000, then a final full strength coat of orange. In between each step I will wipe the lid with mineral spirits to clean it off.

I am a little concerned with the working time of the paint, which is why I plan on thinning it just only slightly. That should extend the working time, shouldnt it? I figure I need 15 minutes from rolling to tipping, and I dont want the paint to get too tacky in that time frame. Im working in Berkeley where the humidy is very low and the temp should be 65-75.

I will post pics when I am done.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

Things are looking awsome!!! no pics tonight, but I will have some tomorrow. 8th coat on the truck box, and 5 on the hood now. The metallic in between layers works excellent!! All that's needed is just a dusting of metallic paint, to adhere some of the sparkle to the surface, and then lay the next coat right over it.
So far, i've had absolutely no problem with orange peel or runs. Like Krylon put it at one point, No runs, no drips, no errors
I'm getting fidgety waiting to put the final polish on it.

Just a note on the wet sanding, I've found that 800 is the best grit to start with, simply because I'm a touch too aggressive with 400
I tri-fold the sheet, and wrap it around an ordinary kitchen sponge, then only sand until the drag of the paint is gone, and the paper glides across the surface. Seems to work good for me, so far
Amazing results as far as I can see at this point. A month ago, before reading this post and seeing the results others have had, I would have said it was impossible to do. ( maintenance tech with lots of industrial painting experience, grab the can and brush and slap at the machine as fast and thick as possible )
Keep up the fantastic work, guys, it's worth the effort in my opinion.
BTW, FarFire, you should really be impressed with the Hunter Green, it looks awesome when the layers add up.

thanks marq for the input!

The guy at epifane I spoke to assured me the correct thinner for the paint is just regular mineral spirits.

I guess I could have mixed the brightside paint colors, and I might try that if I dont like the epifane paint or the color. good point!

I was at home depot yesterday and saw the sandpaper you mentioned, I didnt get any, I thought 220 might be too harsh, leave too many scratches, but I will pick some up tomorrow.

I also thought about a primer, but my car is already orange and I am painting it a similar color, so I decided to skip it. I found my paint at www.epifanes.com, check it out if you get a chance. Their varnishes seem to get good reviews, but I couldnt find much on the net about their paints. We will see how their paint compares to brightside.

My paint should be here monday and I cant wait to give this a shot!

I took a look over at the Epithanes web site... and I am confused..

a ) the monoeurethane doesn't come in orange... the mono is their 'one part' eurathane...

b ) the polyurethane paint that does come in orange is a 'two part' paint.

Based on what I saw on their web site, I believe you have purchased a 'two part' polyurethane...

All I know about the 'two part' paints is that their fumes are far more wilder ( dangerous to humans ) than the fumes given off by the 'one part' paints. The one part paints take a little longer to cure ( more working time ) because they don't have an accelerant/catalyst. The two part dries faster because the fumes are evaporating quicker and in a higher concentration then the one part paint.

It's sort of like a reverse situation of the mineral spirits... where the 'odorless' mineral spirit doesn't evaporate as quickly and hence gives off lower concentrations of fumes... and the 'regular' mineral spirits evaporate more quickly.

On the topic of the one part paint systems and the two part paint systems.. Brightside is a one part urethane. No mixing and you use it straight out of the can... But Interlux also makes a 'two part' eurathane called 'Perfection' - which although it had better hardening qualities and shine qualities I avoided because of all the warnings about the two part fumes.

If your can of paint arrives on Monday... just see if there is one can or two... if there is a second smaller can... that is the accelerant/catalyst for the 'two part' paint system.

Another thought is that the 'two part' paint system may have a different 'working time' once you apply it because the catalyst will be yet another factor in the time the paint stays workable etc.

My last thouoght on this paint... is that the company sounds quite excellent BUT the one thing that gave me a pause was where they mention their 100 year proud history and heritage....

My first thought after reading how long that company has been around is that I have not seen their name come up in any of the discussions on the boater web sites when discussing paint for the upper sections of boats... It just struck me as odd that a company that has been around that long 'would get some folks talking about it'

Instead, all the discussions on the boater boards centers around AWlgrip, Petit and the paints by Interlux ( Brightside & Perfection ).

Dunno... just thought I would pass along those thoughts...

Oh... an as for that 220 grit Triple X ( last three times longer ) sand paper.. I was quite surprised what a decent job it did on my my sanding. I didn't get any scratches or swirls using it. It is agressive - but not so agressive that you can't control the agression by just using lighter pressure on your sander. What I particularly liked about that sand paper was the way if kept relatively clean while sanding. It seems better at evacuating the sandedd particles out from under the sander and it doesn't seem to clog up with the debris. I think the reason why it produces a fairly smooth surface without any artifacts is the abrasive material they are using and the way in which it is applied to the paper. When you look at the sanding surface of the paper you will see the difference in how it has been applied to the paper when compared to 'standard issue' 3M or Norton paper.

.

I just returned from my local marine store with some supplies.
Two quarts of brightside paint $38.99 each
One quart of 333 $14.99
One quart of two part Epoxy primer coat $35.99
total with the goverments cut $147.02
I will need more of both when it comes to the entire paint job {hopefully this Fall}
Also talked to the General Manager for a good half hour.
I was right up front with him telling him it was for a car he was not supprised at all, brightside has been used for painting cars { spray method } but is not cost efective for an automotive paint business because you need 24 hours between coats .
He did recommend I use Interlux perfection { twice the cost per quart}for a guaranteed proven 10 years gloss, Brightside he said was good for 5 to 6 years gloss before it fades
I like to brightside colors though.I am sure he is talking about boats there.
Now in my case my coupe was meadia blasted and PPG epoxy primmed some time ago and I am still doing sheet metal work on it so I needed a primer that can go over the PPG epoxy primer,bare metal,has filling property's and is sandable that is why I went with Interlux two part epoxy primekote ,if was just going to paint over a existing paint job I would use the pre-Kote.
Now I have the stock for my test but it is to dam hot up here now 34 degrees C 40 % humidity.
I will hold off for now.
Note: The General manager also told me you could get away with only two coats of Brightside.
Sorry one more thing before I forget I did talk to him about wet sanding / polishing the final coat he said it is not needed nor has he heard of anyone having to do it with that paint again I and sure he is referring to boats.
I was going to do the Tremclad way and still may if this does not work out ,but I am looking a two tone gray scheme I tryed mixing stock tremclad gray with other mixed grays to get the shades I was looking for.It can be done but could not be reproduced should I need at a later date.The bright side Steel Gray and Kingston Gray matchup almost perfectly at least in the color chart.
Sorry for the long post.
Bryan

I am getting a one-part enamel, but not a urothane. My mistake. As far as I can tell, then paint is similar to rustoleum (which is why it thins with mineral spirits). The guy I spoke to at the company told me the paint isnt quite as durable as the monourothane paint, but I wanted orange. He did say that the paint was very durable, though, and is good for 2-3 years on a boat. If you go to the website, and click on "products", then click on "one-component topside finishes", the paint I ordered was their yacht paint (the green paint in the picture). the monourethane is better paint, but this paint may work also. If not, im only out 20 bucks and a few hours. If so, then great!

Im off to pick up some of that sandpaper, thanks for the tip.

Marq, you mentioned recently that Brightside has their own wax system. Have you learned any more information on this?

Also, did you get a chance to get any more pictures taken? I've been anxiously awaiting Saturday for pictures!

Marq, many thanks for your research on the Brightside paint. I put on a coat of the yellow on a door a few days ago, and the coverage, depth and shine is amazing. Additionally, it's pretty much impossible to scratch at all even after just a couple days. Had a tiny amount of orange peel that was really quick to sand out. I will finish up this door and then compare the the Rustoleum body parts -- it looks like I'll be finishing off the entire car with Brightside though, if it's this good.

Finished up the box of the truck and started on the cab. The metallic is working well.

one more

Tonto, do you know if any 2 part epoxy primer can be rolled with success. I have a 48 Mopar Coupe I am restoring and want to sand her down and prime her for the time being. At some point in the future I may have the entire car media blasted before the actual finishing body work is done. I am doing mechanical, electrical and such right now.
I was even thinking of using Tremclad flat black (rat rod look), for temporary use, I suppose if it doesn't work out I could strip it all off before the real body work is begun..Thanx C38coupe

C38coupe
There are at least three different types of roll on primer that I know of to date,Transtar 6477,Interlux primekote & MP75 Primer Ultra
What I have learned the hard way is that epoxys are very durable but they need to be sealed with filler primer, primer or paint no more than week after application I learned that through another message board.Thats why I need to recover the whole body of my car again before I paint.
I plan on roughing up the old epoxy then recoating{number of coats unknown} and sanding.
The stuff would be hell to remove 100% {sticks great to metal}
I would go for the flat black for sure for a temporary finish.

few pictures..going to take more..

another..