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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25018
07/11/06 11:37 AM
07/11/06 11:37 AM

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I sanded with 120 the entire car. Should I sand with a higher grit before painting now? Or will the paint cover it up? I'm not sure how this will work. With rustoleum that process was fine and worked quite well.




You should sand it down with a finer grit, when I used 220 I could still see the scratches after two coats. When I prepped my car, I used 220 then 320. I've only been able to put one coat on the car (stupid rain), but I definitely don't see any scratches.

Re: Thinning with Penetrol...nice job, Bugg! #25019
07/11/06 11:38 AM
07/11/06 11:38 AM

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I'll try that for the next round. Of course, my truck's a working-class sort of guy, and anything that shows off the dings and imperfections may be counter-productive.
But that's a great finish you've worked up. If I can't find a flagged brush, would foam work tolerably? Or should I go with a high-end brush?





Thanks Rev. Yeah, I'd leave the dings and imperfections on a working truck. It's what gives it "character."
When applying base coats I just used the regular foam brushes. The ones at Dixieline have a plastic back bone that goes almost to the tip. It gave me the most control. I'd only use the flagged brush if you're going for a final, polished finish. The disadvantage of the flagged brush is that ya gotta clean it later. The beauty of Charger's method is that once you've done a few coatings, you can throw away your equipment.

Your primered truck inspired me. I see so many like them. There's no reason they should go on with only primer. Over a weekend, one could give those vehicles a decent covering ... character dings and brush marks included, and it would still look better than it did before. (There's a profit making idea for you guys.)

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Exit1965] #25020
07/11/06 12:55 PM
07/11/06 12:55 PM

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I've been following this post for awhile and it is great. About 5 years ago I applied black semi gloss rustoleum to the top of my 68 Charger with a very textured roller. Looks just like a real textured vinyl top. Looks as good today as when I put it on and I don't worry about moisture and rust under a real vinyl top.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25021
07/11/06 03:15 PM
07/11/06 03:15 PM

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Okay back to sanding again tonight. I want to make sure it's all taken care of. I have about 5-6 sheets of 320 left. I guess I have to go out and get more. I went through it pretty fast on the spoiler, tonnau cover, mirrors and ground fx.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25022
07/11/06 07:46 PM
07/11/06 07:46 PM

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I plan on priming before my first coat of brightside to guarentee a consistant coat/ finish since we are looking at less coats the first to me would be the most important.
just my 2 cents
Bryan
My test will tell me later

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25023
07/11/06 08:30 PM
07/11/06 08:30 PM

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Well I added more pictures of my wetsanding with 1000 grit and 7th coat. My new section on the back of my test piece had a lot of orange peel so I had to sand down very far to almost 1 coat left of my 4 but I added more paint to my mixture to make it thicker than before because of runs and my horizontal sections had little to no orange peel and my vertical section had much less orange peel than before. I think I'm going to be sanding inbetween each coat from now on if orange peel appears at all. Check my signature link for the new pictures.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25024
07/11/06 09:37 PM
07/11/06 09:37 PM
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Quote:

I plan on priming before my first coat of brightside to guarentee a consistant coat/ finish since we are looking at less coats the first to me would be the most important.
just my 2 cents
Bryan
My test will tell me later




As I mentioned earlier... if you are going to use just one layer of primer... make a mixture of 50% primer and 50% paint. That will give you the coverage to hide any color variations on your substrates.. while giving you a head start on a color that can be built upon to give you a deeper and richer color. ( That tip comes from the Interlux booklet ).

If you are going to lay 2 layers of primer... do the first one normal and the second one as described above.

.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25025
07/12/06 09:34 AM
07/12/06 09:34 AM

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I sanded with 320 then last night but the scratches were still deep. I could see them but not feel them. once I rolled on a coat of paint they really showed through up close..

I have some primer thats spray on. I used it over my bondo work and those area's look good. But they weren't sanded down.

Is this how I should go about fixing the scratching? I was thinking of going over the scratchy area's hood, rear fenders and trunk lid then going and sanding it flat again and painting. But will the primer do the same thing and settle into the cracks? Am I completely screwed?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25026
07/12/06 12:14 PM
07/12/06 12:14 PM
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If it's on bondo, you can fill scratches quickly using a skim coat of bondo and fiberglass resin. Then you'll have to sand again with 80 then 180 then 240 and you'll be done.

For scratches not on bondo, I would just mix up some skim coat and go around putting it on the scratches, then start the sanding with 180 then finish with 240.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25027
07/12/06 12:57 PM
07/12/06 12:57 PM

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Quote:

I have some primer thats spray on. I used it over my bondo work and those area's look good. But they weren't sanded down.

Is this how I should go about fixing the scratching? I was thinking of going over the scratchy area's hood, rear fenders and trunk lid then going and sanding it flat again and painting. But will the primer do the same thing and settle into the cracks? Am I completely screwed?




You were probably applied too much pressure with the rough grits, I did the same thing my first time around. I found that 220 worked best if I was trying to strip paint, anything lower gouged the hell out of it.

I used some spray on sandable primer to fill in the scratches I made on the hood. I put down two thin coats, sanded with 400, and that left a fairly smooth surface for the rusto to bind to. There's probably a better way to do this, but that worked for me.

As for my own paintjob, I'm switching over to rattlecanning the stuff. I need to finish this paintjob by next week, and it takes too long for rolled on paint to dry with St. Louis weather. I rattle canned the bumpers and they came out beautiful, but I need to figure out how to properly spray onto horizontal surfaces.

EDIT: I need to know if this will work:

I have a single coat of paint that I rolled on Saturday. I worked Sunday and it's been raining since Monday, so I haven't been able to put another one down. Would wetsanding with 600 be good prep for rattlecanning?

Last edited by Morwan; 07/12/06 03:55 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25028
07/12/06 05:11 PM
07/12/06 05:11 PM

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hey guys, awesome topic here
im from honda-tech, and have read all 40+ pages of it. my civic is coming along really nicely.

But, i am having an adhesion problem on one part. On my brand new bumper (polyurethane), i used the rustoleum auto primer spray, wetsand that then rattle-canned it. did 1 light coat, and left it alone for a week while i worked on the rest of the car. today, while i was hosing down the driveway, i decided to hose off the car, and the pressure from the hose completely stripped the paint off the bumper, and i can peel the paint off like a banana peel.

so the rustoleum primer doesnt stick to polyurethane. what should i do now?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25029
07/12/06 05:23 PM
07/12/06 05:23 PM

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Quote:

hey guys, awesome topic here
im from honda-tech, and have read all 40+ pages of it. my civic is coming along really nicely.

But, i am having an adhesion problem on one part. On my brand new bumper (polyurethane), i used the rustoleum auto primer spray, wetsand that then rattle-canned it. did 1 light coat, and left it alone for a week while i worked on the rest of the car. today, while i was hosing down the driveway, i decided to hose off the car, and the pressure from the hose completely stripped the paint off the bumper, and i can peel the paint off like a banana peel.

so the rustoleum primer doesnt stick to polyurethane. what should i do now?




No, it very well may, you didn't try it. The primer you used doesn't stick to your bumper. Why doesn't the primer stick? Well, I don't know...but if you didn't scuff up the bumper before you painted it that sounds like a pretty good reason.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25030
07/12/06 05:25 PM
07/12/06 05:25 PM
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69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

hey guys, awesome topic here
im from honda-tech, and have read all 40+ pages of it. my civic is coming along really nicely.

But, i am having an adhesion problem on one part. On my brand new bumper (polyurethane), i used the rustoleum auto primer spray, wetsand that then rattle-canned it. did 1 light coat, and left it alone for a week while i worked on the rest of the car. today, while i was hosing down the driveway, i decided to hose off the car, and the pressure from the hose completely stripped the paint off the bumper, and i can peel the paint off like a banana peel.

so the rustoleum primer doesnt stick to polyurethane. what should i do now?




quite often the new bumpers still have the release agent from the mold, no paint would stick to it, you should clean any new plastic parts with mineral spirits, or some solvent, acetone might eat it, but you really should clean it first. i played that game too once, but only once, good thing is that the paint comes off easy

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #25031
07/12/06 05:59 PM
07/12/06 05:59 PM

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so should i sand it with 600, then wipe it clean with mineral spirits?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25032
07/12/06 06:00 PM
07/12/06 06:00 PM
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Quote:



and the pressure from the hose completely stripped the paint off the bumper, and i can peel the paint off like a banana peel.

so the rustoleum primer doesnt stick to polyurethane. what should i do now?






I am somewhat agreement with the cleansing of the new bumper or other new moldings with the mineral spirit or acetone or ketone etc.

I would only use an SOS pad ( or steel wool ) and one of the above fluid cleansers to get whatever is on that surface that is blocking the adhesion process.

The nice thing about the steel wool is that is will have sufficient scouring capabilities to make sure you get the cleansing fluid to wherever the problem is.

The nose chin on my Mustang was brand new from the shops and I did that procedure on it just as a matter of making sure I got all the greasy fingers and hands off the material. You would be surprised by how many hands may have touched that bumper before you fingers even got on it.

And in a worst case scenario... your unit may have been on display at the shop where you bought it and they might have put Armoral or some other liquid shine fluid on it to attract the buyers eyes...

Fortunately I think the problem you are facing is going to be easily overcome...
.

Last edited by Marq; 07/12/06 08:42 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: Marq] #25033
07/12/06 06:30 PM
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heres some pix i took real quick. its really cloudy out, not an ounce of sunlight. its actually thunderstorming right now.

the adhesion problem:


peels easily:



now some pix of the finished parts, polished by hand. the shine is actually much better, just that theres no sun out right now.

Last edited by jamesjstar; 07/12/06 06:34 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25034
07/12/06 06:52 PM
07/12/06 06:52 PM

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Jamestar, what Charger and Marq have told you, and after seeing your pics, I have to wholeheartedly agree. I had a subaru legacy that was in a fender bender, and my paint did the same exact thing... except it was factory match paint that was shot on.

Moral of my story.. listen to the gents, scour, clean, try again. You will be pleased.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25035
07/12/06 07:02 PM
07/12/06 07:02 PM

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another pic just to show how nice and glossy it is
using menzerna intensive polish by hand

Last edited by jamesjstar; 07/12/06 07:03 PM.
Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25036
07/12/06 07:41 PM
07/12/06 07:41 PM
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toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa Offline OP
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Quote:

another pic just to show how nice and glossy it is
using menzerna intensive polish by hand





that looks great, you definetly have a issue with some residue on that bumper, the only time that will happen if there is something like a release agent that they use so that the bumper does'nt stick to the mold when it's molded, they injection mould those bumpers, and you need to get all traces of that stuff off, like by sanding with 600, then washing with soap and water, then mineral spirits. like i said i had that EXACT thing happen to me with a new skirt for my old mustang, using single stage paint, at least i figured it out before i put it back on, plus i just sanded it and repainted it, no issues.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #25037
07/12/06 08:10 PM
07/12/06 08:10 PM
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jamesjstar - Your paint is looking great. You do need to sand new urethane parts though. Red Scotch-Brite pads work well for that application, and you can use them wet or dry. Also, to remove silicone mold release agents, there is a product called Polycracker that works better than anything else I've used. Autobody supply stores should stock it.

The good news is that a high pressure washing should remove the paint that's still on there. Then you're not far from a great end result.

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