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Looking good. You have an amazing shine going there. I really need to work on my technique. I'm getting orange peel really bad. Take a look at my pictures from my 5th coat:

5th coat Orange Peel

I'm confused on where the solutions lies for this. I'm using the same exact roller pan as you are shown above and when I fill up the roller, i move it to the bumpy section and roll with a lot of pressure and watch the paint seap out. I think put the paint over the edge into the flatter part and do this a few times. So I know my layers are thin. Also, I have no bubbles to speak of so I think that my mixtures it pretty good. I mixed it up initially for the first coat then add a little mineral spirits for each coat. Any suggestions would be great cause I'm getting a little iffy about starting on the car since I'm having this trouble now.

Also, look at my wetsanding shot, I'm really only focusing on the initially bare metal sections since the other painted areas were poorly prepped. When I wetsand, I work the area then wash it off, wipe with a cloth then let it draw and see out the color is. If the color is a solid hazy green then I continue. If there are dark and light spots, I continue. Is this a good practice? Hope you all can help me because I'm excited about this paint and would love to see it working smoothly for me.

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Hmm well I know if you have orange peel on from previous coats, a new coat with a little orange peel will make it look worse. When wetsanding, and spraying, you should be able to see the water sitting level on the surface after running wet sandpaper over it. If not, then keep wetsanding until it does that. 400 grit will get you there fast but I've been using 800 grit at this point since the orange peel isn't that bad.

I have noticed to that the coats tend to flatten out when initially I'm worried about orange peel. I usually have the worse orange peel on the hood, decklid and roof (flat sections) so they take more wetsanding. But the good thing is, even now you have added more paint. If it dries with orange peel, just wetsand it down FLAT and do your next coat. It looks like the last coat was on there pretty thick, try thinning the mixture more next time, as it sounds like you are OK in how you're putting little of it on, but I think it just needs to be thinner to sit down flat.

I would not go by how the surface looks (solid hazy green) but more on how the water lays on it once you move the sandpaper over it. You might try also sanding with deliberate strokes, and push down so you get some traction, then you'll see the flatness come about quicker I think.

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MARQ
How is the next {or}last coat of the brightside paint job coming?
Would love to see the finshed product.
Has anyone else tryed the brightside way yet ?
I have a spare door for my 36 chev coupe I may try it on.
Thanx
Bryan

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First two coats, I thinned 25 percent with Penetrol. The white came out fine, but the orange showed the peel more...as colors are likely to do.

That'll put us at 65 paint, 25 penetrol and 10 mineral spirits. Sort of like finding the perfect barbecue sauce.

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Hi Rev! Great job with the truck by the way! That's about the same proportions I used. White worked fine with Penetrol alone but black dried too quickly. Adding mineral spirits until I got a milky consistency made the mixture easier to work with.

It also seems that the trick to using the Penetrol variation is to just immediately tip the rolled on paint with a brush. Bubbles become a non-issue...just brush them away. I used a brush similar to what Coach painters use- one with flags (i.e., split ends.) I found one at Dixieline Lumber. After rollering a horizontal cover coat, I brushed in a downward motion, then again using light pressure. This gave me super-fine brush marks. In some areas there were no marks at all. I found the brush marks easier to sand away then orange peel.

Letting the paint sun bake also helped (at least in my experience.) When I first tried polishing after a day, I got the haze Exit had mentioned before...probably because the paint was too soft. For my Black Mustang I let the paint dry in the shade a day and then it sat out in the sun for the rest of the week. This gave me a harder surface to polish. After using Turtlewax polish I also finished off with a Scratch and Haze remover then wax. (See before and after pics on attachment.)

The polish surface was not only mirror smooth, it also revealed a problem others came across...transparency. But then again I was only up to 4 coats. In addition, this combo does tend to dilute the pigment more than normal. Also, I'm only using the Rustoleum/Penetrol combo as a base coat. It allows me to see low spots and other imperfections (sometimes more than I care for) that I still need to work on.

After I get the imperfections out (the question is when? ) I'll apply a final gloss coat of Dutchlac marine paint, let that dry a month then polish it.