Quote:

---

As far as the Brightside marine paint goes...I found this guy on eBay selling red and blue quarts for $9.99 a quart on eBay. Is this the same stuff that Marq used?

http://search.stores.ebay.com/TheySoldIt...1781922QQsofpZ0

---

Quote:

---

Marq,

And lastly, when you first started talking about the Brightside paint you mentioned it susposed to last for up to 10 years. I'm wondering where you got this information. (The interlux website does not seem to have any technical data sheets with ASTM ratings for any of their paints)

---

I picked up that average number from discussions going on the boat message boards. Folks were discussing the merits of the AWLGrip paint versus the Brightside and folks were piping in how long their finishes had held up in 'real world' usage.

Now the problem with boat guys... is that a speed boat in some warmer climate ( where it is summer all year round ) and some boat guy up in Canada where they might only have their boat in the water for 3 months of the year tends to distort their 'real world' experiences.

But the overall drift that you would have picked up from their discussions is that this paint job 'should' have 'at the minimum' the same life expectancy as a professionally applied paint job.

The other key factors for the long life expectancy of the Brightside is :

a ) it contains a UV protectant - to lessen fading over the years..

b ) it contains Teflon - to reduce or eliminate staining - or at the least make the clean up easier while protecting the paint by providing a Teflon surface that crap like bird poop and road tar can get a solid grip on etc.

I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to be bold enough to post any claims about the life expectancy of their product because there are just so many variables that could impact the long term viableness of a paint job. So all we can rely on are these 'old salts' who have applied the paint and had some long term experience with it on their boats.

About the lowest life expectancy that I saw quoted by some of these boaters was 'that they had to repaint after three years'. But as you read on in their message, they would mention that they had been banging the boat against the wharf, beaching the boat on to the sandy beaches and other such things that would help cut short the life expectancy of the best of paints

.

Quote:

---

Wow Farfire that's a strange looking setup you have there.



But it looks good to me. I have the problem myself on the first coat of putting it on too thick, but that looks very thin and like it will dry flat. Is that hunter green?

That Krylon test piece I shot, it dried very un glossy. Back to a six pack of Rustoleum..

---

Yea, I haven't collected any extra parts for my car so I'm using the fender off my buddy's 47 Jeep Willy. He's got it all apart and is going to repaint anyway. I noticed that I put it on a little uneven in a few spot but I'm getting there with the procedure.

When applying a coat I'm soaking up the paint pretty well into the roller in the paint tray but then working most of it off on the bumps in the tray till there is very little left. then I just apply a good amount of pressure and am getting a good thin coat. No bubbles from what I saw!!

That is the hunter green, much darker then my original color but I think it'll turn out pretty well. I'll keep you all post. Another coat goes on later tonight.

Quote:

---

69 Charger,

A long time ago you mentioned spraying automotive paint over the Tremclad. I'm wondering about spraying an automotive clear coat with hardener over the Rustoluem. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations on doing this?

Thanks again for taking the time to answer all these questions! I've used this technique on some non-automotive applications and it WORKS!!

---

i've painted oh.....lets see, about 5 cars this way, and 2 of them later recieved a traditional paint job, mostly single stage, and the prep was just like any other paint job, and the paint went on great, and had no reactions with the tremclad, durability was the same as if done to bare metal, meaning the underlying tremclad was fine, that was on a 86 mustang GT, i owned that for about 5yrs, after my crx died. i painted it with tremclad, and drove it for about 3 yrs tremclad red, and then came into some extra $ and had it painted charcol silver metalic.

as for the clear coat, really the only one i would spray over would be the tremclad clear, thinned with laquir thinner, and that was my mistake when i tried the clear coat, and used mineral spirits, the same as the paint, and that kills the shine. i could see going from lets say 5-6 coats of tremclad, to final wetsand only (no polish), and go straight to clear coat either rollered or sprayed on, then just buff no wetsanding at all, since the stuff is really easy to put on with no peel. the clear coat paint in a liquid by tremclad is allready very thin, just about thin enough to roller on straight, just needs a splash of thinner, if i were to spray it, i would cut it down alot more with the laquir thinner, just so it goes like glass, and it would, i did a small test peice with laquir thinner, rollered it on, and it's just as good as any automotive clear for shine, and is made to be used over the tremclad.

Exit, i like the color your going with, that will look great when done.


also just a note, i see everyone saying to polish the paint 3 weeks after it's done minimum to polish the final, and really, with auto paints that's true, but i found with the tremclad/rustoleum stuff that it just needs 1 day in the sun, if that and a over night dry time, and using only the turtle wax polishing coumpound, because it's so non-aggressive, it's actually eaiser to cut/polish when it's still "soft", but this applies only to this paint, and not automotive single stage acrylic enamels/laquirs, ect.....don't ask me why, it just works. the turtle wax polishing coumpound i think is purposly geared to the consumer who does'nt have any polishing expirence and tries to polish, the equivelant grit of this polish appears to me to be about a 3000+grit polish, meaning it's a very gental polish that can't burn thru the paint, and that's what you want to use on still "soft" paint.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

As far as the Brightside marine paint goes...I found this guy on eBay selling red and blue quarts for $9.99 a quart on eBay. Is this the same stuff that Marq used?

http://search.stores.ebay.com/TheySoldIt...1781922QQsofpZ0

---

I am still trying to figure out how the guy on eBay is able to sell the Brightside soooooo cheap.

I can't believe there is like a 400% mark up on the paint at the stores... AND YET the guy has a very good track record with satisfied customers...

And his price on a six pack of cans is close to what I am paying for one can at our local marine supply store... go figure.

At less than $10 bucks a can for that eBay Brightside that would make the Brightside paint job more economical than the Tremclad paint job ( which go for $11 to $14 per can ).

Then again... when you add in the shipping and handling cost for the eBay Brightside that would bring it almost at par with the Tremclad / Rustoleum...

---

Quote:

---

also just a note, i see everyone saying to polish the paint 3 weeks after it's done minimum to polish the final, and really, with auto paints that's true, but i found with the tremclad/rustoleum stuff that it just needs 1 day in the sun, if that and a over night dry time, and using only the turtle wax polishing coumpound, because it's so non-aggressive, it's actually eaiser to cut/polish when it's still "soft", but this applies only to this paint, and not automotive single stage acrylic enamels/laquirs, ect.....don't ask me why, it just works. the turtle wax polishing coumpound i think is purposly geared to the consumer who does'nt have any polishing expirence and tries to polish, the equivelant grit of this polish appears to me to be about a 3000+grit polish, meaning it's a very gental polish that can't burn thru the paint, and that's what you want to use on still "soft" paint.

---

Quote:

---

Well, did my second coat and everything seems to be going well. I've posted my pictures in my webshots:

Webshots

I like how the paint is sitting down on the bare metal, seems to be going well. There seems to be some orange peel going on but I'm hoping the wetsanding tomorrow night will take care of most of that. I read earlier on that people we looking at other car's factory paint and seeming orange peel so I decided to look around. It's amazing how badly the orange peel is on brand new cars. I'd really like to get it to sit down flat but a little here and there will be nothing compared to those cars. I wonder how much sanding those cars go through... my money's on little to none.

---