So I was finishing up a roll bar installation and dropped the Tig torch in the bed of the Bronco I was working on, and then I heard a hiss. Evidently, the torch coiled itself and the tungsten landed against the plastic gas hose and put a burn hole in it. Does anyone have any short cuts for patching a Tig gas hose?

Being it’s late Saturday night and you want to work tomorrow I would check the welding supplies at Tractor Supply since they would be open tomorrow morning and see if the have a hose repair kit. We repaired our hoses all the time in the steel mill.

Put a piece of fuel line over it.. it will get
you by.. if needed tape off the hose ends that
you put on.. its low pressure if your talking
the argon line

The pressure is so low a couple of turns of electrical tape should do the trick, until you do more damage next time. I always keep a complete tig cable/hose set-up in the shelf for my late night must do bashes when the unexpected happens, which seems a lot.

Did you have a hose cover installed?

Everything this guy says. Just plastic tubing with a wire clamp at the fittings. Now when you poke a hole in the conductor line with a water cooled torch, then it gets messy.

Shrink wrap tubing with a little RTV right at the burned hole.

I melted about a 3" hole in my tube and all I
had at the time was fuel line to fix it.. with
some elec tape and the hose it was great... its
still there after 3 years.. protective cover
does wonders

I guess my 33 years of Millwright work and especially the last 10 years with our inspections that we had to pass make me overly cautious. If putting a couple layers of electrical tape works for you, go for it. LOL.

How much do you lose if you just shorten it?

You're lucky. Last time I dropped the torch it went through my leather glove and into my hand.

My handle has a control knob at the torch head, not foot peddle controlled, so the pressure gets up to bottle pressure in the line. I took pittsburghracer's advise, did some research and found out that repair kits aren't much more than a barbed splice. I cut the line where I burned it. Surprised to find how thick the line was. It's like a soft plastic or hard rubber line. 3/16" id. Ran down to Lowes, got a splice, pushed it on the line, holds pressure fine. Thanks, guys.

"so the pressure gets up to bottle pressure in the line."

Never seen that, and have no idea what the advantage is by that design. Is this an air cooled torched?

I think the regulator is bad.. shouldnt be that
way and its just wasting gas

Maybe not bottle pressure, but regulator controls flow, not pressure. Knob at torch handle turns on gas, along with power trigger. Snap On MM-140. Mig and Tig machine.

My reg sets the pressure but I have a flow
meter also... I set the pressure a little
above what I will be flowing then fine tune
the flow with the flow meter.. I have 2 gauges
on my tank.. one shows tank pressure the other
sets the flow(low pressure in CCM)

Mine has just 1 gauge for bottle pressure, and the regulator with a flow meter. That's all I've ever used for welding, so I guess that's just what I'm used to using.

"Flow meter"Do you mean the plastic tube with the ball that floats up and down on a graduated scale?
If I can remember rite my tank pressure is up in the thousands of pounds of pressure, that touch line would pop quickly if the pressure "got up to bottle pressure" . I had the same thing you have, the handle valve was an on off type thing, never much pressure.

The flow regulator is after the pressure regulator. Most regulators are fixed at about 25psi, then flow is controlled by a pin orfice. With a torch that has a flow control, you open the regulator mounted flow control. You will never have straight bottle pressure in the torch lines.