anyone whos interested in spraying this stuff who dont have a compressor check out this thread http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133&page=23 and go to like page 25 or soemthing ...and see the results =)

yea, they did...not only that the guy who did his roof gloss black with the rattle can :thumbsup:

Interesting results. I imagine you end up with less orange peel with the spraygun than with the roller, but kick up more dust and debris, so it would only be "better" (i.e. less wetsanding) if the increase in dust problems offsets the amount of orange peel you get with a roller. I think that with enough practice and the correct ratio you could keep the roller-peel to a minimum.

I see using the Wagner HLVP with Rustoleum as an intermediate step between the roller (very low cost, lots of labor/technique) and a full-on BC/CC spray job (very high cost). The next intermediate step would be to spray with the Wagner HLVP a BC/CC job in your garage. That would be more expensive than Rustoleum, but not as costly as either buying a compressor and gun or having someone spray for you.

I like the fact that the roller doesn't kick up any dust to get into the paint, so you can really do it in your average home garage (or even outside as many here have done).

I am amazed at all the people who tried this

My work is done...........

Not soooooo fast. I saw a link to this thread from Jeeps Unlimited.com. I just need a quick update. From what I have read the paint I need is oil based enamel from rustoleum and mix it with mineral spirits and use a dense foam roller to apply up to 10 coats on a sanded surface, metal or primed.

Wet sanding each or every other coat will rid the orange peel and remove impurities. ( I detail, so wet sanding and buffing and my specialty)

Does this sound correct? If so, I have a few questions. I found some of the rustoleum at lowes, the same stuff others on here have used, and it says do not use on surfaces that reach 200 deg. F. It also says do not use for surfaces submerged in water. A car spends its time outside and is always wet, and hoods will go over 200 easily.

Have any of you had any negative effects from using this paint in the outdoors exposed to snow, rain, salt, etc for several years? Or does this stuff hold up well?

Also, how much do I thin the paint with mineral spirits?

Not fortunite enough to be a MOPAR owner, but this thread has gone all over the world, I got the link from a few other sites and at first i was laughing it reading that people were actually doing this. It seemed so "White-trash"! Well, thanks to all the details from others and mainly 69chargeryeehaa, I gladly carried the torch and went with the "Royal Blue"


This is after 4 really light coats and still need to wetsand, buff and wax. I just wanted to say "Thank you"!
And just to throw in my $.02, What I learned is "thin coats" means thin coats in order to avoid orangepeel, consistancy needs to be REALLY thin, like water... I used about 1 quart for four coats on entire car... and VERY happy with the results thus far.

If the Rustoleum / Tremclad marketing people were REALLY SMART they would seize on this and put together some 'gathering' where all the Rusto cars and Tremclad cars could gather for a 'car show'....

Tee hee... a gathering of cheap but well motivated car enthusiast...

But then again... since we are all so 'budget' minded we probably wouldn't want to drive to far to get to this Concours... ahahhhhah....

Anyhow... on the update with my car... I just sanded down the paint and I can assure anyone who wonders about the 'hardness' of the Tremclad when applied this way that the sanding only produced DUST... dry as desert dirt dust... There was absolutely NO gumming up or clogging of my sandpaper. And this was from a 3 day old application of paint.

On other topics... I have been following that other thread where the guys are using cheap Wagner electric spray guns to apply their paint.

So I took a trip over to the Home Depot to scout out the units that they have there. It turns out that the guy in the hardware section had experimented with the range of Wagner sprayers AND RUSTOLEUM.

From what I gather from his experiences, the cheap bottom end Wagner sprayers 'might be able to do the job'... but he does not recommend them.

You can spot the weaker and less likely to succeed Wagner electric sprayers by the fact that THEY DON'T GIVE THE PSI ( pounds per square inch ) pressure rating on their boxes. These units are usually in the $50 to $70 range ( CDN$)

In fact these Wagners are the ones you tend to find at Walmart etc. Instead of telling you the PSI their boxes they usually make some idle claim about " you can paint 15 feet of fence in 10 minutes' or some crap like that.

For some odd reason Walmart was charging about $20 to $30 per unit more than Home Depot for these lower end Wagners. I was a bit surprised that Walmarts price was so 'uncompetitive' compared to Home Depot.

The Depot guy says to avoid those ones that don't tell you right on the box what their PSI is. Wagner is embarassed to say it.. so you should avoid it. They only have about 1200 PSI and you would have to cut your Rusto/Tremclad with about 35% to 50% mineral spirit for them to function properly.

The ideal or dream Wagner electric sprayer is rated at 2200 PSI and proudly proclains that on their box. You pay a bit more for this puppy - but it has the ability to atomize even straight Rustoleum or Tremclad - and it has the valve to handle that density of paint. However, the Depot guy says that you should cut the paint with mineral spirits ANYHOW.

There was also a 1500 PSI model and an 1800 PSI model Wagner. Again note that Wagner clearly indicates the PSI on the boxes of both of these products. Both are up to the task of atomizing Rustoleum and Tremclad. The Depot guy gave his personal thumbs up to the 1800 PSI model. But again he suggest that the results will be better if you cut the Tremclad / Rustoleum with about 10% to 20% mineral spirits.

The 1800 PSI unit was going for about $89 bucks CDN and the 2200 PSI unit was going for about $109 CDN$.

Strangely enough the Walmart no PSI Wagner was also going for about $109 CDN ( and since we know it is only a 1300 PSI model that price difference is what made the Walmart unit seem so overpriced ).

The end user is supposed to test out their sprayer / paint and mineral spirit mix by fiing against a 4 x 8 sheet to fine tune the spray being delivered and the runability of their paint and mineral spirit combination.

The only caveat that I was given about the Wagner that is shown in the earlier message ( the ultimate control and minimize overspray model ) is that they don't show on the box what the PSI is for that unit. As such he thinks it may be a 1200 or 1300 psi model. Therefore you would probably have to cut your paint to mineral spirit something like 40% mineral spirit in order to not clog the valves and for the spray gun to
onsistently atomize the paint it is spraying.

So the conclusion to this tale is that :

a ) if the Wagner spray gun doesn't tell you the PSI on the box... it is probably best to avoid it.

b ) the one labeled with its PSI rating on the box ( and especially the one rated at 1800 PSI is probably the best bang for your buck and can perform a thousand other duties when it isn't being used to Rusoleum or Tremclad a car body.

Hope this info helps someone out who might be considering the electric spray method of applying their paint.

.

I am seriously thinking about this option because it sounds like an ideal way to deliver a consistent and thin black layer and then overcoat it with a red layer ( getting that deep black cherry look that I want - instead of just settling on the standard issue Fire Red color on its own ).

Hi Scott, It looks more like Sail Blue or fresh blue to me... when I looked at the can of rustoleum royal blue it was very dark... I am looking for the same color you car is but I dont was a dark blue...

Lemme know, thanks. Btw, it looks awesome... =)

It is "Rust-Oleum, Gloss Royal Blue #7727, Protective Enamel, Superior Durabilty Premium Quality, Oil-Based" (I'm looking at a can) I never saw on the posts how much it would take to cover, that is why I posted the amount. I also used the "Odorless Mineral Spirits" and don't see any issues with it.

The color on the camaro seems to be the same as on my Scirocco which is a Tremclad Medium Blue. Its almost to "bright" but its way nicer than the fade I had on the origional paint.

On a side note for anyone else here is an interesting read on "runs" and "peel"
http://www.auburn.edu/~byrdmic/orangepeel.htm
this guy got rid of some serious runs the hood of his car.

This attaced pic is still 6th coat "rough"

He dry sanded that hood. If you wet sand it you will get a better result most times. Also, use an orbital (like the ones u get from sears with different pads)and use some swirl remover to remove the buffer swirls. You know, that look a black car gets in the sun after a fresh detail from someone who didnt use swirl remover...the spiraly type lines in the paint.

marq - no matter wat paint gun ur using ur still going to have to mix mineral spirt with the paint because if u dont the paint is to thick when u apply it...and u dont get that "glossy shine" even when u wet sand and wax...cuz i tried it. so even if ur sparaying do about 30% mineral sprit

Hi guys i have been following this forum since day one but never got a chance to post over here. I have experimented with the roller and a cheap paint gun(hlvp control spray) I have been using rustoleum professional gloss black. exit is right that the professional does have some good features. Also crazygoat is right you still going to have to add mineral spirits to get the right amount.
here is a picture where i rolled on with a gloss balck see the orange peel but still made its shine

Here it is with the cheap paint gun i got from home depot. I sprayed about 2 inches away adding thin coats. I add one thin caot and let it dry for 15 minute to be on the safe side and added more coats. once the lights coats covered the area the next day i sanded and did the same process until the third and polished. see the results.

Wow. I guess the can is way off. It's a lot brighter than the can represents I guess. I will get a quart to test it. I was going to buy Sail Blue cause the color on the can looked like the color I wanted and the color you have and the guy who used medium blye had.

How come the color is so much brighter? I wonder if sail blue is too bright...

thanks Scott. =)

Stuff--
I can't tell b/c your spray picture isn't a close-up like the roller pic, but are you saying that you got a much smoother application with the spray gun, ie less orange peel? It looks really good from that distance, does it look as good up close?

its good at a distance, up close is ok you still can see minor orange peel here is a pick up close from the third coat.

I worked my butt off trying to get all the orange peel once i get to the sixth coat it started to look better. Be warned when working with black its very hard to shine.

I used a technique wheni paint my rims or whatever. I kept applying thincoats around the area of my trunk lid going back and forward, i also made very sure i have no drips using the paint gun. I basically kept applying thin coats one after another. The thin coats dry quickly Ill make a video later today if i get a chance. I did get smoother application using the gun, i also got smoother application using the roller. Ill probably put both together to see what it would look like. wetsanding is key though.