Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454936
02/21/18 03:29 AM
02/21/18 03:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,653 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Cut and Shoot, TX
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Natural finish on springs:
Spring leaves are a hot rolled steel product usually with intact mill scale when relatively new. After being produced at a steel mill as a flat bar, leaf springs are further hot worked to taper the thickness and heat treated to obtain desired properties. The end result is mill scale on the surfaces, an oxide of iron, usually almost black or very dark blue.
At any Home Depot, Lowe's or other building materials emporium, look at the hot rolled steel concrete reinforcing bar, square tubing, flat bars, angles, etc. All these hot rolled steel items have a very dark range of colors, such as dark gray or very dark blue. Not silver, not anything like Seymour's Stainless Steel paint.
What you are looking at is intact mill scale. Natural finish steel springs should be the same color as front suspension forgings, another hot worked steel part with mill scale.
The best way I know to duplicate the look of black or dark blue mill scale on spring leaves is gun bluing after rust removal with Evapo-Rust. As said above, wash off the Evapo-rust with mineral spirits, then apply gun bluing according to the bluing directions.
Notice the blue color of hot rolled steel in the bottom photos.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2454941
02/21/18 03:37 AM
02/21/18 03:37 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,653 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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As said in the link below, mill scale, a combination of FeO, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4, is "bluish black in color". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mill_scaleThis photo from the link is loose mill scale pieces from hammering on red hot steel on an anvil. Mill scale on a relatively new and un-weathered spring leaf will be intact and tightly adhering.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2540627
08/23/18 10:03 PM
08/23/18 10:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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Akron, ohio
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I thought I would post a finished example of my restored leaf springs, after much deliberation and trial and errors with my powder coater I went with a natural finish. After I soaked them in Evaporust We decided to glass bead them and coat them in a Matte Clear powder for durability. I'm happy with the finished results and I reapplied the paint Daubs I found after the Evaporust did it's job.
Last edited by 76orangewagon; 08/23/18 10:04 PM.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: a12rag]
#2540643
08/23/18 10:58 PM
08/23/18 10:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,252 New York
rarefish
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New York
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Shouldn't the part numbers be one even and one odd at the end (44) . . . left & right ?? That was the case with 440 and Hemi cars...
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: rarefish]
#2540660
08/23/18 11:32 PM
08/23/18 11:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 140 Akron, ohio
76orangewagon
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Shouldn't the part numbers be one even and one odd at the end (44) . . . left & right ?? That was the case with 440 and Hemi cars... My broadcast sheet shows "044" for both left and right leaf springs for my 71' 340 Cuda but you are correct that most leaf springs seem to be different numbers.
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Re: Correct finish for leaf springs
[Re: 76orangewagon]
#2540669
08/23/18 11:51 PM
08/23/18 11:51 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 784 Florida
cbusters
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Florida
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I thought I would post a finished example of my restored leaf springs, after much deliberation and trial and errors with my powder coater I went with a natural finish. After I soaked them in Evaporust We decided to glass bead them and coat them in a Matte Clear powder for durability. I'm happy with the finished results and I reapplied the paint Daubs I found after the Evaporust did it's job. Unfortunately the entire spring would have been dipped in the black paint. I left my leaf separators and spring clamps Zinc colored as well. Couldn't make myself scuff and paint them.
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