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I too am joining the legions of roll on car painters. I got here from the samba.com where I learned of this technique. I have a 68 bay window bus I will be painting soon.

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Hi Bowerbird. I'm a Samba.com defector too. This thread is awesome, but what's even better are the moderators here and Moparts.com. You guys are the BEST for being so welcoming and open minded to new ideas! THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!

Samba.com has basically shut down the thread on roller painting. Here's one of the (cleaned up) responses from the "moderators" on that site:

"allright,...last "advice" i will give in this thread.

doing all this work only to use Rustoleum is doing a job half***! ...waste of time. Rustoleum is NOT auto paint.learning how to spray is a good thing to learn... cutting corners claiming it's because cost is a sh****y excuse as auto paint is 90 bucks and cheaper for everything you'll need sans paint gun and compresser...if your that cheap you can't get up 90 bucks for auto paint then collecting cars isn't what you need to do!
putting Rustoleum on a car is a horrable idea

thank you
the moderator!"

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oh don't even get me started on that one. But i so agree, the moderators on MOPARTS ROCK

i thought the whole point of boards like this is for fellow enthusists to share how they've done stuff to help out other members. not everyone will agree with this method and that's ok, everyones entitled to their own opinion, but i find the mopar community far more welcoming of "out of the box" thinking and methods, and the moderators leave things be. like i've said a million times, i'm not trying to compete with professionals, just offering a alternative low cost solution to get alot of rides on the road that otherwise would sit in a garage until $ can be afforded to paint. after all, it's only paint, you can strip it off and repaint, if anything your preserving your car for the future. the fact that there's overwhelming responces and a huge interest in this thread proves that there are people that really could benifit from this info. i'm glad it's helped so many people out. My opinion of the VW community, espically the samba has totally changed, what i thought was a tight-nit community is just wrong, i'd rather be a "mopar" guy now. what happened in the samba thread was there was a few idiots that came in and ranted about how crappy the method is, and they got ugly, then the moderators shut down the thread, so because of a few idiots, everyone that was reading the thread and very interested in it suffers because of the idiots and moderators, the samba is a substandard board run by a$$O's (pardon my french).

sorry for the vent, i just hope all the people from the samba that have defected here should really be happy they belong to a "real" community, get a mopar, don't get me wrong, i love my vw, just not the community.!!!

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Exit,
I remember you saying to use a 3m sanding sponge for wet sanding, am i correct? i only saw sponges that already have a grit on them. Do i just wrap the new grit paper around that sponge so i have something soft and flat? I was just concerned that if it ripped through the paper, the rougher grit underneath would ruin my work. Thanks.

Rufus

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exit1965 - progress update? i'm dying to see the finished product what do you have to do to get it running otherwise?

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No progress update yet. I took last night off but tonight I'll wetsand the 1/4 panels and do another coat.

I have to do a lot to get it running. It's just a rolling chassis now but it's got a nice 8 3/4 with a 3.55 suregrip. I have a 383/727 to put in it after I do some work to the 383. Maybe it will be running in a few months if I can afford it..

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Another question about the process...

I was wondering about how much paint quantity I should count on getting. I imagine I will use more than the average as I will be painting a bay window bus. Perhaps someone here can give me a ballpark. Thanks.

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1 gal should do it. just over maybe so u could get a quart too.

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Just did another coat.

I'm back to wondering if red was the right color choice. Seems the more I paint and the more time I put into it, the more it bugs me to see little imperfections in the paint like the hair, the dust speck. I think even the roller gives off some of it's foam sometimes. The concern is I haven't been able to get a haze free finish after wetsanding (which removes those imperfections), and Jagdstealth, who did a nice paint job of his Z and used red for a stripe, also said he first got a haze, then after a lot of work, ended up with a finish much more dull than the white paint...

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Would normal hardened primer and car paint not work with rustoleum under it?

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No...that's the tricky part. As the enamel slowly cures under your new primer and/or paint, the enamel can move and can also cause all sorts of adhesion problems with the layer on top of it. This is what causes the 'turtle shell'/cracking look you see on some cars...you have to get the enamel off before adding layers...

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Moose...hey looks great. I just did my 9th coat of yellow last night on my cowl. Are you thinning so much that it drips a lot off the side? How often do you change rollers? I've been trying to preserve mine in plastic bags, but I think maybe that might be a bad idea.

I really gotta finish the rest of this body work so I can start painting everything else. Stupid school!

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