I got my engine out (383) to change the cam. Had a lobe go bad and wanted to take a look at everything. The numbers on the cam are: 891497. I have no idea what cam this is and a google search doesn't come up with anything. Does anyone know what cam this is?

One of my heads has a crack on an exhaust port where the heat cross over is. Can this be fixed easily?

The only cams I recall seeing that didn't have Parkerized lobes are the MP cams, so that's probably what it is.

If you look at that crack just right, you can see it spells out the words, "buy some E Street heads".

Made me chuckle yes truth !!! dont waist money on those old iron cracked heads.

Thanks! I was hoping to find some specs on the cam so I know what not to get to replace it. I'm hoping to milk this engine one maybe two more summers. I plan to start collecting parts next fall for a 512 low deck build. That engine will have TF240's on it.

It turns out the pistons in this engine are TRW 11.5:1. I'll need a cam that can lower the dynamic compression enough to still run pump gas and use stock type springs. Any recommendations?

"11.5:1 pistons" are only that with the correct deck clearance, chamber volume, and gasket thickness.

Do some measuring/CC-ing so you know what you actually have.

It may or may not really be 11.5:1.

Ok. I'll measure the chambers up this weekend. What do you think about the crack?

How are you with an oxyacetylene torch and bronze rod?

Kevin

Is the crack all the way through? You could braze it, but you would want to preheat the whole head imo to be safe. But iron heads are a dime a dozen , if your not ready for aluminum heads yet, braze her up or get a cheap replacement steel head.

I find it pretty odd for the head to be cracked in that area........and not cracked “a little” either.
Of course, the crack doesn’t really go anywhere.
If you were worried about oil leaking through to the heat crossover cavity, you could just slather some JB weld on it and call it good.

Before I tried welding/pinning/brazing it........I’d just do up another head.

Die grind / v out the crack and use some liquid metal, think the JB weld mentioned above is the shot.

I was pretty sure I'd have a use for these pics at some point......

This is what can happen when that crack gets really big......

I was pretty surprised at how thin the material around the stand is.

And if you read it backwards, it spells: "Iron is dead."

What's scrap iron sell for by the pound these days?

Actually, you need 3-D glasses and a black light to see the "iron is dead" inscription.

I wouldn't put that head on anything except a scrap pile...

No sense of adventure. lol

Fire up the gas BBQ, set to cremate and put the head in it (after prepping the crack of course) and close the lid.

After the temp gauge goes off the end for a while, open the lid, fire up the torch and the bronze rod and have at it. Close the lid when done and turn the fire down gradually until it's out and leave the lid closed until cool.

If you have witnesses and it doesn't crack, everyone in the area with FUBAR cast iron will be knocking on your door to have you perform this "magic".

Kevin

Having had a cracked iron head "repaired", the R&R labor, gaskets, fluids etc. were far more than replacing the head.

w/r/t I'll need a cam that can lower the dynamic compression
Not the way to select a cam, that's backward. It also isn't nearly as effective as it sounds.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll get a better look at the crack this weekend. I'm trying not to spend any extra money on this engine. Would rather invest in the other engine. I can't find any info on the piston dome size. Any educated guesses on how many cc's the dome is? I'll cc the heads and try cc the piston to get a better idea of what the CR is.

Wouldn't that crack also leak exhaust into the engine creating pressure?

I have a very nice ported set of 906 heads in my house garage that ran 9.80’s many years ago but started leaking again water. I ran some block sealer and they never leaked again but I can’t bring myself to use them again. I also can’t bring myself to throw them on the scrap pile. Lol. After I’m dead and gone my kids can scrap them.

All the rich guys tell you buy aluminum> Where will they be when they crack strip or better yet warp> The question is if your going to race it go ahead with aluminum. If not try JB weld after a drill on the ends of the crack. Frankly if it were me I would probably braze it or just JB weld it but I'm old and don't know nothing I have seen too much BS with cheaper aftermarket aluminum heads yes they work but leaks leaks and more leaks especially on a non decked block Said before too many non racers using race only parts and seeing the piss poor results