Most of the stuff to relocate the battery to the trunk in my Dart will arrive tomorrow and I'm curious to see where exactly you guys mounted yours. IIRC the NHRA rules state that it has to be bolted down through the frame, if that's the case it's going to move the battery way out in the trunk. I'd prefer to mount it as close to the fender as I can get it.

Anyone have any photo's they would share?

Thanks

1-ga positive all the way forward. 1-ga negative through the floor & bolted to the frame. Then 4-ga from that same point forward to the block, with a strap from that bolt back to the firewall stock location.
Charge wire from the alternator is IIRC 10 ga routed to the switched side of the battery cutoff. Switch is a summit 250 amp.

Not the best,,but

I've mounted a bunch of battery the same way as hemitis is, if your using a older lead acid type battery make sure and mount is sideways so the G forces don't break the plates off inside

I have 2. Frame is fabbed fro 1" steel angle. Inner and front bolts go through the outer frame flange. Outer bolts are plated under the floor. 6 bolts hold the battery frame work. Bottom is spaced up with 1/2" tubing for the mounting bolts to keep it level. Fuel pump mount is integral as well.
Doug

Thanks for the photo's guys, I'll mount it as close to the quarter as I can. DVW your car is insanely clean, show off! lol

Move it close to the quarter and then pretend you have to change it just to make sure its not to hard. I have a fastback barracuda with a small trunk. I have to take the battery and box out together to change the battery, its a real PITA! I wish I would have run that scenario through before I made it permanent.

My '66 Charger is the same way. I used some 1" angle like Doug and a lap belt from a 68 Plymouth. The aluminum box '67 has is nice and looks to be three pieces.

On the subject of batteries internally collapsing - has anyone had to heard of this happening in the last 10 years?

This is something I hadn't considered, my box will be here this afternoon so I'll check it out. Thanks.

I had a friend have one act up on him due to this. It worked intermittently, sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldn't. I don't think its a common problem but its worth consideration when you set the car up. This only applies to a conventional lead acid battery. It doesn't matter for any kind of AGM product like Optima or Odyssey etc.

Not much room in an E-body for all of this.

I put mine in a marine case because since its a street car I put many things in my trunk. Including my jacket and clothes sometimes so I don't want any acid to get on anything in my trunk. Ron

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/008a74_720378def1a641ed80e73bf0450982d9.jpg/v1/fill/w_750,h_563,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/008a74_720378def1a641ed80e73bf0450982d9.webp

A lot of guys have some type of mount attached to the frame and the battery attaches to the mount. Needs to be 3/8 hardware.

A couple of other things I might suggest are

A) Use Quality crimp terminals, a lot of the kits have cheap small lugs that don't have much surface area for a good connection. Industial wiring lugs are available with 2 bolt holes that can make a much better ground connection

B) Use good cable that is oil/high temp rated (some welding cable is not) type SGT (PVC) or better SGX (cross linked poly) Or spec cable. If it strips easy it nicks easy

C) A little high heat insulation sleeve can really save grief when routing cable by headers or hot sharp stuff

EPDM jacketed welding cable is oil resistant and has the same heat rating as SGT wire. SGX has a higher rating at 125C compared to 105C for the sgt and most welding. I have seen one EPDM jacketed cable that was rated at 140C

There is cable that is sae J1127 rated 105C that is welding cable with an EPDM jacket. My guess, it's the same stuff as the non SAE rated wire, just with the SAE number on it. Same specs throughout. Wouldn't surprise me if the jacket between the two had no molecular composition changes. The 140C cable must have something different for jacketing.

Yes on something like TechFlex jacket when it passes near headers. Heat hurt load carrying capability of wire. That goes for any of the wires headed to a starter that is essentially captured by headers.

Sorry Crackedback. I should have said some welding cable not most.

I have seen cheap welding cable with soft rubber insulation used many times. Then the insulation can expand to 2 or 3 times it's original size when soaked with oil and becomes a soft gooey mess that is a delite to work with.

Agreed. All good.

The EPDM is the one to use. Nitrile rubber jacketed stuff doesn't play nice with oils, fuel, etc.

That's an easy fix. No leaks, done.
Doug

I'm going to route the rod for the master kill switch through the tail light lens/housing. Can I drill the lens or will need to use a rotary file in a die grinder? Some plastics don't drill well and I don't want to ruin my lens.

.....

Is that on the drivers side?

Is it true that a acid/lead plate battery should be mounted horizontal?

I don't know, but I did mount my battery so the plates go front to back.

That is the best way to avoid problems with a wet cell lead acid battery in mounting them
But that only applies to hard leaving cars, not tire spinners

I hope moving the battery and the Viking DA shocks will help hook on marginal tracks. The best 60' for the 434 so far is 1.40, the 408 went 1.38 a bunch. It doesn't leave real hard, but not to bad for a street car.

Yes it is. I know the deal about how it should be on the pass side but my cable was given to me and it was just a bit to short to put it on the right rear. So since its just a street car I put it in the left rear where I had enough cable to reach. And its worked fine there as for a mild street car it hooks fine and I just tweaked the torsion bars to keep the ride height level. Ron