Has anyone used methanol injection on na engine. Does it make any difference in hp or et? i'm running 408 stroker with tunnel ram.

I haven't used it, but a lot of guys around me do. There is about a .1 gain, and you can run more timing. All the guys running it are using vacuum pumps with it as well. It also requires a different cam I am told for the injection, but that may be for stacks.

Tuning window is bigger......BUT, for the money, and the hassle, I would never do it....I watch those guys struggle some days. Fuel goes bad, can't get it started, floods out, have to dump bad fuel and find fresh fuel...No thanks. Seems like a real PITA most weekends.

Now if I were to go E85 or Meth, it would be with a carb and a small vacuum pump. A lot less changes needed.

I ran an old school Hilborn 2 1/16" butterflies 8" stacks on a 451" low deck. I made spacers so it would put the stacks vertical. Did very well with set up, was very consistent. Tried to sell the car (70 Challenger) and no one wanted it with the injection. Put the carb. back on it and slowed it down 2 tenths. That was on methanol with the injection and race gas with the carb. Am sure not every set up responds that well. But am running methanol in new car and probably won't ever go back to race gas.

I think the smart way to run methanol is with a EFI system. You can set up a Holley EFI system to run two fuels so you can flush the engine out with gas after running it on methanol. Or you can start it on gas and then switch to methanol.

EFI gets rid of all the black magic of pills and fuel pump size and pulley ratio and high speed bleeds and all of that. Just dial in what AFR you want and make it happen.

Talk to Rich at FAST Man EFI about running methanol with EFI. He has a lot of experience with that combo. Once you see how easy it is you'll be impressed.

Ron's makes a primer plus for cold starting and driving in the pits and return road with gas to heat the engine up and evaporate any moisture out of the engine. But I agree with Andy. Holley Dominator EFI is probably the way to go.

It's worth .2. And your car runs very cool and the tuning range is much wider.

I would run a primer plus system with a hat on a tunnelram . Max power, quick warmup on gas and the ability to clear out the alky at the end of each pass so it saves on fuel costs and preserves the cylinder bores during storage and races. I have a single terminater now, and not having the primer plus eats up a lot of alky plus like i said earlier causes problems with bore corosion if you don't do a perfect job of clearing the motor of alky.
A well setup car is absolutely deadly consistant, right up till about 96 percent humidity. Then there is a serious dip in power because of the high humidity. I think it amounts to about .04 in the 1/4 on my car, been many years since i had to deal with that.
On timing, methanol runs best with about 2 degrees less timing than gas.
Throttle response with alky injection is killer. Idle is very fat on an injection system, and fuel is waiting at the intake valve! The first pass i ever ran with an injecter it went right on the bumper launching off idle. What a surprise that was.

I think all the prior posts are about use of methanol as fuel. Maybe the OP is asking about this:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-boost-engine-power-with-water-methanol-injection/

Only the biggest stacks are big enough.
The CFM capacity isn't the total of 8 for 8 cylinders, but of 1 for each cylinder, the demand is much greater.

sorry i meant water methanol injection.

Very true. the 2 1/16" butterflies were all torque and done by 6000 rpm. It was shifted at 6000 and would have been good for over 500 passes I'm sure.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...0488/methanol-injection.html#Post1540488