Anyone running 16x33 slicks on their A body race car? If so what width are your frame rails, what width is your rear axle housing and what diameter are your wheel wells?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

My First thoughts are why would you even want to do this. No need IMO. Way to much slick for a A body, not needed. Unless its just for a Big meaty tire look.

I like the look and I might want to use them in the future. I'll probably use 14x32. but I want that capability down the road just in case.

Yes....They are narrow. I would have to measure them....Along with the rest of what you ask.

As for why....Why not? Its consistent as hell...Marginal track, no problem, cold track, no problem, change in air pressure, doesn't care.....

The wheels and tires are the first things you gather up. Used, new, worn out tires, whatever. Just make sure the wheel and tire size and backspace is what you want to use. Set the car up. Cut the stock sheetmetal out, locate the wheels/tires where you want, and build the car to the them.

I have 17X33 on mine frame rails are around 19" outside to outside the rear I think is 40

I've ran 10.5x33x15 mounted on 12 inch wide wheels on my old pump gas Duster with full inner wheel tubs to the stock rear frame rails with no problems front or the rear side of the five inch stretch wheels wells, three inch stretched to the front and two to the rear I also moved the rear end forward one inch for better weight distribution along with moving the motor back one inch to the rear
What year and brand A body are you working on? Have you bought the rear wheels yet? If not do that first after you figure out which rear offset you want before ordering them, the more inset to the rear end, deep offset to the outer wheel wells, the easier they will be to put on the car Once you get the wheels you can mock them up by measuring from the inside of the outer wheel well to the other side to get the total width of the outer lip and subtrack between 1/2 inch to one full inch depending on how much clearance you want to the wheel and the tires. If you buy a 15 inch wide wheel for the 15x33x15 drag tires add about a 1.5 to 2.0 inch for the total section width on bias ply tires and right at 1.0 inch on radials, example the 15x33x15 bias plys mounted on 15 inch wide wheels I would figure right at 17.0 to 18.0 total section width Set the wheels on the ground with the width you want the axle mounting surfaces at and the figure the total axle flange to axle flange width for figuring out the rear end width and rear sub frame width for the rear sub frames, I would buy a complete rear sub frame set up for either ladder bars with coil overs or a drag race four link suspension with a good set of double adjustable rear coil overs and have it installed by a good chassis shop unless you can do that yourself
Like many things in life the first time figuring this out is the hardest
Take your time measuring and figuring this out and maybe even mock it up on the garage floor with chalk with the inner and outer wheel well widths and inner wheel flange width mocked up also
Good luck

One of these days, I would love to try a 10.5Wx33, but I think the offset I would need on the wheels pretty much kills it for me.

If your in the build stages, maybe set it up for two sizes right of the start if your worried or need to class race it.

Everyone like above says the same thing, why do you need so much tire? But I go at least two seasons on a set, and my 60ft doesn't change by more than .05 over the two seasons...I am always right around 1.37...I can tell you next season, off the trailer, it will be right there....1.37

The way I look at it, my car would handle a lot more power, if the budget ever allowed, no problem. Room to grow.

I do have an over sized Hemi sitting here that would be interesting to see in the lighter car.....All I would need are headers. It went 9.90 in my 400lb heavier street car without even tuning it. My guestimate would put that around a 9.3-9.4 in this car...ON PUMP GAS

I have two cars available. 75' Dart Sport and a 69' Valiant 2 door. I'm partial to the Valiant. My Brother and son like the Dart Sport. So we can go either way. But it'll probably be the Valiant.

I like the big tire look and I want it to hook in a mud hole if necessary . We've never built one from ground up. This will be a family project.

I do plan on moving the rear wheels forward 1" and if it's not too much trouble I'll move the engine back 1".

Me...I would not move the wheels forward. They are short enough as it is...There is not much quarter panel between the door and the wheel well, and I had to open mine up a tinge.

Also, if your not going to race it a ton, a 14x32 is the most common size available. There are always a good amount of used tires and slicks for sale in that size.

If your plan is a 4-link, use a sway bar. Or as someone else mentioned, get a back half kit with all the goodies. The sway bar I learned was a must on mine. Preloads would not keep me from going to the right.

12 x 32 is the most common bigger size that most use. But any size bigger then 29",s tall is going to require body work on the front fender to make room.

Well unless tubbing and moving the springs inboard negates all that.

14x32's are what I will probably use. But I want to be able to go bigger if I want too.

I plan on buying a welded up S&W rear 4 link clip.

I could have fit a tire that size on my ole Cuda. I choose to use a 33x15 instead on it. The why is easy, it was a bracket/index car and more tire don't hurt at all. Especially on hot days on greasy tracks. It was a 2x3 tube car though.