I'm in the process of an engine change on my 65 D100 (slant 6 to Poly 318) and decided to also change the OEM points distributor on the Poly as well.

Just curious what is recommended as the easiest red wire connection location (switched 12v source in the "ON" and "Start" positions but not in the "Accessory" position). I'm also going to remove the OEM ballast resistor so would like to know what fuse box terminal to tie into (or other location).

Thanks,

- EM

OK. I found a couple of options on the ballast resistor by-pass. Both are very straight forward. Not having done it before I thought there was going to be more to it than there is.

- EM

Why not leave the dist, and install a Pertronix unit, that is if they make one.

???? This is a brand new Accel distributor and is very similar to Pertronix in that it does not require an ECM. I'm not sure why you suggest replacing it. I'm simply wiring what I have and by-passing the ballast resistor per Accel.

- EM

I would make up a male jumper wire so you can remove the stock ballast resistor with the jumper and not have to mess with changing any other wiring
I do that al the time when replacing a stock ECU or adding a electronic ignition to a old Mopar that doesn't require the stock ballast resistor anymore
You can splice and solder the two ends together at the resistor and use heat shrink to hide it also
More than one choice

Cab, Yes that's what I am planning to do with the by-pass of the ballast resistor.

With regard to a "switched" 12 Volt source, I see everything from putting a "piggy-back" connector with a 3rd wire off of the new jumper to going through the firewall and tapping into the ignition switch or fuse block. Your opinion?

- EM

What appears to be the easiest is to remove the section of ballast resistor wire and replace it with a section of 14ga wire. Doing this allows the stock coil + wire as the switched source for the distributor. Anyone done it this way? - EM

Yep, that's the way I do it too. Easy and leaves the wiring harness untouched.

How do you remove the ballast wire, mine is sealed in the ceramic

I think someone is thinking GM

Nope. I saw a picture on another site where the Mopar resistor was pocketed on the back side which is where the wire was placed. Maybe HemiSportFury can explain how he did his. It would seem there are a few ways as "removing" doesn't have to mean physical removal it can also be a by-pass that removes it from the system.

- EM

All the early (pre 1971) Mopars I've seen the factory wiring schematic on have one side of the ballast resistor to the 12V side of the ignition switch in the run position and another lead from the start position to the other side of the ballast resistor so the coil sees 12V in the start position and once the key is return to the run position the ballast resistor is in series and reduces the voltage downwards as it warms up from 12.5 down to around 8.0 volts on the other side is what I remember seeing now with a decent VOM, maybe a little higher or lower voltage depending the resistor and connections conditions.
My message is unless you want a additional switch 12V lead for some thing else I would use the stock factory wiring to the ECU 12 V switched lead or to the 12 V lead to power the distributor off of the jumper you build to replace the ballast resistor

I think were saying the same thing. A bridge of the 2 sides of the resistor or just disconnecting the 2 wires from the resistor and connecting them together (and using a piggy-back connector) provides the 12v source for the distributor. - EM