Tim, here are some shots of the modifications needed to clear the Holly float bowl. You also need to know that the air cleaner element has half the seating room as you are "all up in it" with the Modification. It will still seal, just be careful and go slow.

So now I have a template made from cardboard, (4 hours). Now I will use it to gauge the metal. I have an 8' long 18 gauge piece of steel with a 90 degree bend to the outside for the rubber seal to clip onto. I will use a manual shrinker/stretcher to form the radius at all four corners. Then body work, paint and last but not least, cut a hole in a PERFECT hood!

Well, back to work, not as much time to spend on the air cleaner project, here are a few photo's of the "wall" being created out of metal. Notice the "1" lip at 90 degrees already bent. A manual shrinker, spreader does an amazing job of creating the radius with the lip already on the metal!

Awesome! Keep those pics coming!

👍👍👍

Looks like you have done that kind of work before. Looks too easy - I'm sure it's not.

Ok, why did you trim the lip by where it meets the carb flange? I need to do this mod on mine but I have been hesitant to just cut on a $600 air cleaner base..

To transman, thanks fort he compliment, but no I haven't done this before. And no it is NOT easy, it will try your patients.
The notch cut in the rear carb opening is an example, my mistake.
I thought it was hitting there, it was not, now I have to replace that piece. Part of doing something for the first time!

Are you going to do A-B-A testing at the track to see if there is a difference?

I'd be suprised if your under hood temps are 200* while you're moving...you're still getting airflow. I can't see an outside air supply adding 65hp+ just based on air temps.

Somewhat unrelated...my Coronet was on a string of 10.50 passes one night at QC when the W023 scoop came off in the shutdown. Next pass, no scoop, just a carb and a big hole in the flat hood, car picks up .08 and 1-2 MPH. Only thing I can think is the carb pan sealing to the hood, and the size of the scoop, were creating a pocket of positive pressure and causing a ton of negative areo drag. No more air pan on the carb for me.

Well I have shrinkers/stretchers for 2 different models, that hand one is a lot harder to use than one with a foot pedal. The foot pedal one allows for 2 hands, and if you are on a stool, you don't loose too much balance.

It looks like you are really getting a handle on it.

Do your carbs have vacuum secondaries or are they double pumpers? Keep up the good work. Tim

A39coronet, that is interesting stuff. It is hard to argue with back to back time slips!
No I'm not going to test the car at the track. If I had wanted a fast et, I would have chosen a car lighter than 4175lb.!
I just hate having something on my car for the looks with out it serving a purpose. I also need to always have a project to work on, especially during this time of year. So, just thought you guys might be interested.

astjb2, Your right, I would LOVE a peddle shrinker. I am balancing the long ends on cardboard boxes and trying to work with one hand on the metal!
I have vacume carbs.

I hear you on that...plus no excuse to rush making things during the winter and you can take your time to make it right.

Looking forward to the finished product.

Tonight's progress. When I went to bed last night, I had the radius off. Quite a bit. I was frustrated so went to bed. Tonight after work, with a fresh look, I had every thing "right to the world" in about an hour.
Here you can begin to see why I bought the Shaker base from Tommy, I can just trim away what I don't need and have an excellent "floor to attach the "wall" to.

Leave an edge on the base that is 1/4-3/8, then roll it up, you will get a good lap weld. Even if you only leave the straight sides, it gives you some sort of edge to weld to. Tim

Tim, That is a good idea, it would also serve as a reference to hold the wall in place while welding. But first, I two more radius to build. The one on drivers side rear will have to clear wiper motor, very little room back there!

Well, with the front done, all that remains is to match the radius's in the rear, and hit the overall length. A cardboard template does the trick!

The last bends are critical, they must meet up EXACTLY.

Here it is with the lid. There is a lot of trimming excess of of the Shaker base, welding, body work and paint, but the hard part is done. Two weeks of evenings and weekends! Another week at the very least!

It looks awesome, if you are good with a torch, you may want to try silver brazing. Its low heat and is 60k psi tensile strength. I am not a fan of mig for real precise work.

What are you going to use for a seal to the hood? I have some rubber product that is 3" wide and come is a roll that you could fasten...or look for a P seal

http://www.brownaircraft.com/product-p/t-6400.htm
Tim