Hello all
Maybe a stupid question but why the arrow on my 440 distributor reluctor points clockwise direction while the rotor,shaft etc turn counterclocwise?
Could it be a reluctor from a small block dist?
I don,t have spark and i noticed about this when i was checking things.Thanks

I think if you take it out, and look on the other side, there is an arrow pointing the other way. So maybe it's been installed the wrong way.

If it's been installed the wrong way up, then it won't work as the 'points' won't align at the proper time.

Coke there are no dumb questions. the reluctor is the same for SB/BB & that is why there are 2 roll pin locations & yes it (Rotor Phasing) is the SB roll pin location but in some cases it needs to be there on a BB for better RP. For a quick check line up the magnet with a tooth & install the rotor & make a mark on the top perimeter metal rim of the dist housing to show the rotor tip clocking location at that point then install the cap & see if the bulge of the cap terminal is close to (vertical/above) your mark, how close they are to each other. when cranking, the coil positive primary terminal and the blue/yellow ECU terminal both need to be fed at that point in time. In addition, a functioning (OE) five pin ECU the red/green terminal needs to be hot. More details: recent problem? what changes? what setup?

Thanks both
Robert,what i did yesterday was to connect the wires of my multimeter to the dist.connector and turn the shaft by hand(The multimeter on the beep/continuity mode) and it made that a cricket insect sound.
However, that signal does not arrive to the orange box.What i mean is that if i connect the dist connector to the car wiring and the multimeter wires to the orange box connector pins,the cricket does not sound.
I don,t understand why, because there is continuity between the orange box connector pins and the connector that goes to the distributor.
I did a video,is horrible because i was holding my celular so i only had one free hand,but more or less you can see what i checked out.
https://youtu.be/5RKR3-KUo8w

plug the zigzag connector halves back in & see if you have a reading at the ECU connector while spinning it with the scale on low AC volts then see if you have continuity with the scale on low ohms (no spinning needed) & always a good idea to pull a batt cable before switching the scale to ohms. See if the blue/yellow terminal at the ECU connector and the coil positive primary connector both have voltage in "run" and in "crank" (pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter), see if the meter chirps.

Your picture shows the roll pin is in the BB slot. Clockwise is SB and the unmarked slot is BB counter clockwise.

Correct(ed), yes it is in the BB roll pin slot.

I tried what you said this weekend and i found that the zigzag con.didn,t make contact when the two halves were toghether.
I replaced it for another zizag conector from an european Ford wiring that i had around here.
Now i have spark but the engine does not start.

I had an small fire on the engine bay some weeks ago.It afected to the dist.connector its wires,and also burned the distributor cap.
I "fixed" the connector&wires using heat shrink and i put an old dist cap that i had.
The engine used to start until the connector gave up the ghost,but i noticed that the dist did need to be advanced a lot for starting.

bump the dampener with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the slit is at 15 BTDC. turn dist to where the magnet is dead even with the tooth that places the rotor under the #1 plug wire if you are on #1 compression or the rotor under the #6 plug wire if you are are on #6 compression (I'm assuming the intergear was not disturbed). confirm the plug wires are clocked 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 CCW around the cap & you mentioned burnt wireing so it wouldn't hurt to also confirm you have spark in "run" by turn the key "on" & crank it with a screwdriver on the starter relay & see if the coil wire sparks.

Robert,as i said in my previous post it has spark since i changed the burned dist. Connector.I use an scisor on the starter relay to check it out.

However i don,t undestand the part when you say "Turn the dist where the magnet is dead"
What i did today is to put a piece of paper in the #1 cyl.spark hole and turn the crankshaft until it has popped out.Then i have continued turning until the damper matched the 15 degress TDC.

At this point if the rotor metal rivet is just under the dist. cap hole it should to start shouldn,t it?I have not tried to cranck it up.I will try tomorrow.
About the intergear, if you refer to the gear where the dist takes movement,i put the sprocket in line with the crankshaft when the cyl#1 is at TDC.

Make sure and rotate the crankshaft backwards, counter clockwise facing the motor, to get the distributor at 15 degrees before top dead center, not afterwards
I would pull the coil wire out of the distributor and lay it so it can short to ground and turn the key on and short the starter relay under the hood so it spins the motor over to see if the coil is firing or not and then again when in the start position from the ignition switch
If no spark from the coil wire go from there, if it has spark, which I hope it does, then see if it is something else
Maybe check the ground on the orange ECU box first, especially after the under hood fire
Good luck

With the dampener at 15 BTDC #1 compression, you would turn the dist housing till the magnet is dead even with the reluctor tooth that locates the rotor above the #1 plug wire. Tho you can clock the intergear/#1 plug wire location anywhere around the cap, maintaining the OE pattern is a VG plan. Standing by the pass fender-vac can pointing across to the other side. #1 plug wire in the 5 O'clock terminal which will be just below the forward cap retaining spring clip.