Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: Just-a-dart]
#2371898
09/16/17 10:20 PM
09/16/17 10:20 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,587 Great Neck,LI,new york
hemi-itis
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,587
Great Neck,LI,new york
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With the dash and all the interior out of the car I would suggest you put a cage in the car, not just a roll bar. Then you could have more options.
Looks like a good excuse to buy a bender. I am sure you can find other parts to make with it. I agree that a CM cage should be installed from the start."J" bars and a mid plate too.That way it's DONE and the next caretaker can go right to 8.5 with it. I saw a car with the truck directional switch and I didn't like it.Might consider a stock column gutted like Doug.
HEMI-ITIS has no cure. My condition is fully BLOWN!!
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2371972
09/16/17 11:58 PM
09/16/17 11:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,995 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,995
Oregon
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I think I have the transmission all sorted out too. Turbo Action built a torque converter for me and I picked up a SFI flex plate from B&M. Everything seems to fit together once I pawed thru my bolt drawer and found the correct bolts. I don't usually do run an automatic so I had to dig around a bit to find flex plate bolts.
Last edited by AndyF; 09/16/17 11:59 PM.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2377603
09/27/17 10:47 AM
09/27/17 10:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 667 IL
Dart451
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 667
IL
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I need to figure out a steering column for this thing. I looked around and Jegs has a simple tube with bearings and a steering shaft. The shaft is set up for a quick release steering wheel on the driver side, can't really tell what is going on on the other end.
Anyone have a race type steering column that they used and liked? I'm guessing that I'll need to weld a Mopar spline adapter on to the box end then shorten the shaft to length and weld the quick release on the driver end?
I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes. Check out American Autowire 500148 Turn Signal Toggle Switch Thats what I used for my car. Didn't want the old turn signal box switch on side of the column
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2383769
10/08/17 10:45 AM
10/08/17 10:45 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021
Tulsa OK
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The intake is back from Wilson so now I can start installing the EFI system. Do you have manifold vacuum(KPA) vs barometer KPA readings from your dyno pulls? My 416 pulls some vacuum on that same throttle body. Its about 4-6 KPA and some people say its worth nothing and some people say they picked up 30HP swapping to a larger throttle body when seeing vacuum. Looks like Wilson did a nice job on the manifold.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2387934
10/15/17 11:42 PM
10/15/17 11:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,995 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,995
Oregon
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I've been trying to figure out the rear shock mounts since I got the car. The car came with Rancho shocks but they were about 6 inches too long to fit. I bought the shorter shocks from Calvert but they were still too long. Finally decided to build my own shock plates to make it work. While I was designing the plate I decided to change the lower shock mount to a double shear rather than the cantilever pin. The double shear is stronger and easier to put together. Just push the bolt thru the bracket rather than trying to twist the shock on over the upper and lower pins. Here are a couple of pictures of the first prototype. I think this design will work so now I just need to refine it and make some more.
Last edited by AndyF; 10/15/17 11:42 PM.
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