Which heads, aluminum or iron and what is the suggested hot valve lash for your cam?
Looser than stock is not the way I would break in a new cam or motor

Should be zero lash with maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 turn more for lifter preloading. Hydraulic cams were made to be quiet. There should be no tappet noise coming from the engine.

Here's what I found on the web. Is it correct?

Most auto repair manuals will list procedures for adjusting two valves at a time while following the firing order. And while adjustments can be made that way, for performance cams COMP Cams advises a more precise method.

When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the number 1 cylinder, adjust the number 1 intake valve. Loosen the adjusting nut slightly until lash can be felt in the rocker arm. While spinning the pushrod with your fingers tighten the adjusting nut—when a slight resistance is felt the valve is at zero lash, or the point where all the slack is removed. Turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn past this point (depending on the cam manufacturer’s specs) to achieve optimal preload on the lifter. Follow this procedure to adjust each intake valve according to the firing order.


To adjust the exhaust valves a similar procedure is used. Turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Do not go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle—where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open. Then follow the same steps of spinning the pushrods and tightening the adjustment nuts.

This is correct! Remove the valve covers, bump the engine over and do just like the procedure says. It's easy and will be a good learning experience for you.

Here's what I found on the web. Is it correct?



When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the number 1 cylinder, adjust the number 1 intake valve. Loosen the adjusting nut slightly until lash can be felt in the rocker arm. While spinning the pushrod with your fingers tighten the adjusting nut—when a slight resistance is felt the valve is at zero lash, or the point where all the slack is removed. Turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn past this point (depending on the cam manufacturer’s specs) to achieve optimal preload on the lifter. Follow this procedure to adjust each intake valve according to the firing order.


To adjust the exhaust valves a similar procedure is used. Turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Do not go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle—where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open. Then follow the same steps of spinning the pushrods and tightening the adjustment nuts.

You are very close, only thing I would add is spin the pushrod with your finger tips (thumb and finger) until you feel it starting to tugg then give the adjuster a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

I always use the following:

Exhaust starts to open adjust the intake.

Intake opens all the way and starts to close adjust the exhaust.

I do one cylinder at a time that way I don't forget to do one or the other.

A remote start button is a great tool for this.

GOOD LUCK!

I call BS on that second part. After the end of the intake cycle comes the compression and power cycles. Overlap is after the exhaust cycle. I take the intake to near closed and adjust the exhaust. This produces repeatable results. If you don't adjust at the same crank position every time the loading of the valve springs will cause the numbers to change making for more work as they'll all seem off a little.
The hard part about hydraulics is that lifters can bleed down varying amounts, totally screwing with your 'feel' when you try to find zero lash. I've never had an adjustable hydraulic but have seen some near catastrophic results from others who didn't get it right.