Replaced the fuel pump on my 95 ram and the plastic fuel line broke where it goes into the pump. Is there a way to fix this or does anybody sell a factory replacement line. Any help with this mess would be appreciated.

I bought a new line from the dodge dealer but that was a few years ago.

Me too. Also the tool to release the fittings from AZ. At the time, cost for the line was reasonable ('98 Neon).

They do make some replacments that you dont replace the entire line.Comes with a brass sleeve that goes in the OE line and the replacment piece.Repaired lines at work and never had a problem.You just need to see if they make one for your app.Rocky

For 99% of the problems like this, Dorman sells repair parts/kits available at any auto parts store or dealer. Check them out.
Link

I have this problem on my 2wd 1995 Ram
5.9V8/46RH/Clubcab/shortbed/26 gal tank.

I thought I would have to replace the whole fuel line from pump connection to fuel injector rail.

After reading the above posts I stopped at O'Reily's Auto Parts
and for $20 they had

800-059 Dorman Quick Disconnect
Chrysler/GM
Nylon Fuel Line Repair Kit
UPC 0 19495 02597 9

This is the kit with the right angle connector like my factory fuel line connector.

There is a barbed metal connector, but no pair of hose clamps to secure it?

Is it better to drop the fuel tank to do this repair,
because the nylon line seems to go down in the tight space between
plastic tank and steel frame
and change somewhere
to a long length of steel line going toward the engine compartment.

When I changed out the pump assembly about twelve years ago
I took advice to remove the cargo box bolts on the driver's side,
loosen the cargo box bolts on the passenger side,
then jack up the cargo box 45 degrees above the fuel tank top and pump,
taking care to free the wiring around the license plate.

I would like to do this relatively easy cargo box jack up again
but I am not sure I could get to where the new section of fuel line needs to be connected.

You dont need clamps.You heat the line and install the barbed fitting.We used boiling water at the shop.Once the line goes over it wont come out.Used it many time and never a problem.Rocky

The Dorman line of repair kits are a sloppy mess,
at least as far as 1994-1995 Rams are concerned.

The kit mentioned in my post above, 800-059,
shows the correct right angle fuel pump connector ON THE PACKAGE DRAWING,
but the actual part inside is not as pictured.
The nylon fuel line in the kit is 3/8
but the 94-95 Ram uses a 5/16 nylon line.
No matter how much you warm the original factory line,
with boiling water or even hot olive at 300 degrees,
the supplied steel barb ( maybe 3/8 in auto spec)
will not slip inside the factory 5/16 nylon line.

Dorma's straight connector kit 800-058,
has the correct fuel pump quick connector mechanism,
both on the drawing and inside the package,
but no helpful right angle turn and also the wrong 3/8 nylon line.

Dorman makes a 5/16 nylon line repair kit, 800-057,
but the quick connector to the fuel pump is too small to fit the Ram's outlet.
The steel barb on this kit will slide into the factory line.

A 3/8 barb to 5/16 barb adapter would fix this.

Dorman could have easily provided one in their kits for $1-$2 more.

Apparently the brass hose barb adapters to threaded fittings
sold in hardware stores are made to different specs
than those steel barbs for nylon fuel line.

I tried to make an adapter from
two different size barb to male pipe fittings
and a brass double female pipe coupling.

Ace Hardware 757001-0404 made of brass for water hose to pipe
Is close to the diameter of the Dorman steel 5/16 barb for nylon fuel line.

757001-0504 made of brass for water hose to pipe
Is close to the diameter of the Dorman steel 3/8 barb for fuel line.

The pipe coupling is
738103-04
LF RB Coupling 1/4

I do not know whether this make-do adapter will work yet.

The most maddening thing is
now that I have the bad part that suddenly began leaking,
the failure was not a manufacturing defect,
It was not that the part was 22 years old,
It was that a SQUIRREL gnawed a hole in it.

My makeshift adapter worked.

I used the Dorman 800-058 kit with the straight fuel pump disconnect because it locked in place like the factory original connector. Since it did not have the right angle elbow I looped the 18 inches of 3/8 ths nylon line around in a wide 180 degree turn.

I finally got everything together with no leaks.

Why do dropped things end up in the worse possible resting places?

I was going to use the heated 7/16 ths deepwell socket to heat the outside of the original 5/16 fuel line but I dropped the socket while squirming into place and it fell....... into the crevice between truck frame rail and plastic gasoline tank. A telescoping 36 inch magnet finally got it.

I used two tapered center punches alternately submerged in boiling water to heat the nylon lines from their inside diameter.

The brass barbs would not push completely into the nylon lines, lacking about 1/8 th inch to flange, probably because in my cramped position I could not apply enough muscle. I added screw type hose clamps over the line and barbs for added grip but would have prefered the right size of constant tension clamp.

I now intend to eventually drive the truck to a shop with lift where the entire fuel line can be replaced.

Since my 26 gallon tank will have to be dropped,
I am going to look in salvage yards for one of the
34 gallon tanks that V10 engine equipped Clubcab shortbed Rams got around year 1998. These have a different shape than the 36 gallon tanks of regular cab long bed Rams in those years.

The barbs usually dont go all the way in.Once the barbs go in and the line tightens they dont come out.Rocky