Anybody have any real-world experience with these? Used either together or separately?

I'm really looking for more road feel/feedback from the steering system. and am wondering if with a beefed up steering box mount the sector support does much. On the idler brg setup, the reduced slop there would seem to offer a marked improvement, if not to feel, to maintaining geometry.

I'm currently removing the engine and disassembling the front end.

My application currently:
73 Barracuda
SFC's, Torque Boxes, 1.12" TB's RCD Bilstien shocks (all else stock)

Post Assembly:
Seam welded/reinforced K-frame, re manufactured cop steering box, Mopar Action P/S pump pressure reduction modification, 7/8 sway bar (for now), 1.12" TB's, boxed LCA's, offset UCA bushings, new ball joints, new LCA & strut rod bushings, adj strut rods, 11/16 tie rods with AL sleeves.


Thanks
Chris

I have the sector support on my car but I didn't really notice a marked improvement? It doesn't hurt to have one though.

I've never run one, but I'm convinced that the Red Brick needs one. I had it out on Skyline Blvd one day a couple of years ago, which is very twisty. There was a distinct lag as you turn the wheel back and forth. It has a Stage 3 FF box in it, so I doubt it is the Mopar on-center dead spot. I think the box was flexing on the K member, but I have no proof, just a hunch based on the fact that everything else had been thoroughly dialed in on that car. It was on my list of things to do if I had kept it.

Have you reinforced the box mount on the K frame?

Also, I'm sure we've all noticed the box, linkage movement when watching with the car running and someone turning the wheel. I noticed less dramatic movement with new idler inards. It seems like the FF roller brg wall but eliminate that bit of slop.

Pretty pricy on both parts, so some real world experience is helpful in decision making.

I'm also rebuilding/assembling my full front end. I've just now modified the idler arm with FF's ball bearing kit... had the kframe on a bench so it was easy to shim as required.... turns very smoothly and tight w/o any play... I'm hoping it will compliment the FF-3 T/A box (also just rebuilt by FF) that I use... along with the 11/16 tr ends, etc.

I didn't go for the PS box sector shaft... maybe in the future.

Regarding your UCAs, now is the time you should upgrade... anything is better than factory; using the Moog offset UCA bushings is OK, but, you really should go for a complete swap while you're there, now. FF, QA1, Hotchkis, SPC... do it now... its a hassle to go back and do it all over again... you will sooner or later.

What engine do you have SB or BB?

Also, are you going with the longer (fast-ratio) pitman arm, as well as the longer idler arm... (the longer fast ratio idler arm is simply a c-body idler arm ~1970 up)? IF you use the std ps box, with these arms you'll get slightly tighter turning radius than not using the longer arms.

And... be CERTAIN that you're only using a SAGINAW ps pump... the Federal type cannot keep up with fast action high-rpm steering manuevers. USE SAGINAW ONLY!

Yes, I had my K-frame fully welded by Firm Feel when I swapped to Gen 3.

Hey Mitch, I've been following your antics for a while, probably since the mopax days if I'm not mistaken.

I'm going to continue to run small block, I'm currently running a hot 318, but one form of a stroker or another with a TBI of some sort is in the future, as is a lockup A999 and a Gear Vendors.

Thanks for the tip on the fast ratio idler, I was just going to use a stock one, and yes, will be using the FF large sector fast ratio arm. Instead of stops in the box, I think I'm going to go with the "weld a nut" trick to keep me from rubbing the tires on the inner fender. I've also got a shiny rebuilt Saginaw pump to install.

Regarding the UCA's, if I am able to get the alignment specs I want with the offset bushings, what other advantages do the tubular UCA's bring?

Yes... MOPAX for many past years (the "original"!).

Although I don't know the max caster/camber from QA1 or FF tubular UCAs (they are "fixed" at a pre-made spec... better caster/camber than OE UCAs, then you play with the cam eccentrics for the final alignment), I do know of someone who's installed the offset uca bushings (made his own in poly based upon the Moog rubber offsets).. and he was able to get 7 degrees positive caster with the FF ucas and offset bushings... THAT's awesome!!!! along with about up to 3 degrees neg camber.

From what I see and have read, the adjustable Hotchkis and SPC ucas have very good adjustability for caster and camber.

The Magnum uca are offered both ways, if I'm correct... fixed and heim adjustables... but again, I'm uncertain of their range.

Just using the Moog offset bushings with factory stock ucas will get you into a range of about 3-4 positive caster and about 2 negative camber... that's much better than stock only.

I'm certain that there are variances with the results of just using the offset bushings... maybe greater/lesser.

Also, matter of how much you want to spend overall.

I like the very wide range of adjustability/design of the SPCs, although some concern of strength in harsh/rough off-road long-term travel/life, and, they are available with DELRIN uca bushings (best!).

The Hothckis and Magnum Force adjustables have, if I'm correct, heim joint ends at the body mount points... also some question of life, but, lots of true "racers" use setups with heim joints.

All above are my opinions...