i have a later 727 i believe out of an 89 power ram? since i got it its had a slow 2-3 shift when moved manually it has been completely rebuilt, clutches bands springs etc, received a tf-2 kit and some valve body modifications. b and m shifter, b and m hole-shot 2100 stall torque convert, b and m extended pan.
all clutches, belts. valves, springs, are all new and hopefully adjusted properly. park, reverse, neutral, drive, 2 and 1 all work beautifully.
1-2 is rock solid and grabs perfectly. 2-3 at part or mid throttle is fine. WOT revs up as if in neutral then grabs 3rd. (kickdown/overlap/pressure? issue?) putting it in drive/3rd goes through up and down gears perfectly fine even WOT.
i do not have a kick down or throttle leavers. they are just at a stationary spot. possibly one of my issues.
i do believe the torque converter is full and level is ok as dips in neutral show fine.
it is however intercooled, and i routed it to keep fluid in it at all times but didnt bleed it (thinking pressure will push it through) and may have air in system/torque converter.
is band out of adjust? do i have to adjust the pressure? need guru help!
pictures of what my the trans and leavers look like.
can i externally adjust the overlap from the external kickdown adjuster stud to 72 ft-lbs then back it off 2.5 turns?, or perhaps this requires adjustment of the throttle shaft? or whatever lingo is proper for either of these.
and yes. it was rebuilt in 2005. put into vehicle in 2008 and first drove a month ago.
me breaking in the trans and trying to burp it.
it has about 100 miles on the rebuild. had 700 miles on it when it was pulled.
total life 800 miles. i dont remember all the kit names for the rebuild since it was well over 12 years ago. i do remember everything inside was brand new but i redid everything and added better and additional clutches.
(for obvious torque reasons)
Last edited by ForcedInductions; 08/18/1711:20 PM.
You need either the throttle pressure lever hooked up correctly or a manual valve body before anything else. Transmissions don't need to bled. Any air in the servos or clutch pistons will work out after a few applications.
However running it without the proper throttle pressure will burn the front clutches.
"Follow me the wise man said, but he walked behind"
'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion. '74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Rear disc and hydroboost conversion. 2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
will it cause any issue running it at full pressure? i hardly ever put it in drive/3 and put around i manual shift down and up. next time i have the pan open i will upgrade it to a full manual valve body. anyone have suggestions?
also i remember the rebuild kit company i used was TCI. so i guess im partial to picking their valve body kit unless someone suggests otherwise.
Last edited by ForcedInductions; 08/19/1710:38 AM.
For what your doing you would be better off just pulling the pan right now and changing the valve body otherwise your gona have issues with the trans... the one thing that might cause you a problem is the front vent.. in a M/V trans you need to move the vent to the tail shaft and plug the stock vent.. or it tends to spit fluid out.. on whos to use... there are plenty to pick from.. I have a turbo action in my junk.... OR just set up a throttle arm with the proper ratio on the arm to give you the pressure you need.. its simple
Do you want manual only or do you want auto shifts? Either way can be done, but as suggested above, you do need to change the way you have the throttle lever set up now.
On my last blower car which was primarily a street car, I started with a cable kick down which worked okay. But changed to a forward manual valve body. I usually like to shift the car manually anyway and the tranny just reacts quicker and more consistently with the manual valve body.
I even had A&A build a manual valve body for the 518 in my current Cuda street car. They softened the 1-2 shift and the reverse engagement so that they weren't banging all the time. It makes for a good combination on a street car.
Plenty of choices for you once you make the decision on which way you want to go.
i am perfectly fine running manual shifts only. looks like revised throttle bodies arent too expensive about $300. i may look into it for the new season. for now i just want it driveable. it hasnt moved in a decade and half. like i said everything works just annoying to have to back off throttle to have 2-3 shift nicer.
ill try running it at max pressure always. unless that will hurt things? the extended pan and cooler shouldn't let the system overheat. and technically shouldn't be any issue running full pressure?
i might get lucky and have money for a trans-brake version.
If you don't have proportionate shift strength, the car will be a PITA on wet pavement. I have full throttle pressure all the time (not 727) even though I have auto upshift, and the car will loop if the steering wheel is turned when it shifts.
Tieing the lever back will solve your full throttle upshift flare but as soon as you slow down below governor speed the trans will downshift to second automatically.
A manual valve body is your only option if you don't want the hassle of a kickdown cable setup. Doing neither is a guaranteed transmission rebuild in the fairly immediate future.
Kevin.
Re: 727 slow 2-3 shift, Guru help please!!!
[Re: Twostick]
#2356697 08/19/1706:36 PM08/19/1706:36 PM
You can't just tie the throttle lever back because it won't shift until the RPM hits the governor shift point and then (as mentioned) will down shift way soon, too, In other words, you won't have much control over when the thing shifts.
Only 3 choices; a properly adjusted kick down, a manual valve body, or risk hurting the tranny.
Master, again and still
Re: 727 slow 2-3 shift, Guru help please!!!
[Re: Twostick]
#2356715 08/19/1707:10 PM08/19/1707:10 PM
Just put a KD on it.. you can get a Locar cable and the rest of the stuff from them.. then it might take a little time to get it right for you.. then you can shift it or let it do its job for you.. took me a little time to get mine adjusted where I like it... that way you wont tear up your trans.. all those soft shifts are cooking the trans
Be prepared for some fabrication to make it all work right. If you don't find any levers close by, I think I have 1 or 2 lying around. There are different length levers which will affect how the ratios interact between the carb and tranny. I drilled extra holes in the lever till I got the correct action between the carb and tranny.
im trying to procure a lokar cable kit. i do need a lower lever arm one really cool guy offered to send me one. if it cant be done ill take you up on your offer.
sadly im in the igloo country of canadah. i am in no rush as the engine is down due to lifter retainer wire failure.