Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: T/A CARe]
#2349720
08/06/17 09:18 PM
08/06/17 09:18 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,664 On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
amxautox
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
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Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,664
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
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A short. Fusible link blew? what car???
Tom
"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."
-Henry David Thoreau
Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths
author unknown
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: T/A CARe]
#2349834
08/07/17 12:24 AM
08/07/17 12:24 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,306 Laveen, Arizona
GTSDart340
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,306
Laveen, Arizona
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Could be the ammeter wiring at the bulkhead connector.
Last edited by GTSDart340; 08/07/17 12:24 AM.
1949 International KB-2 "Mater" - 302/T5
1968 Dodge Dart GTS "The Drat" - 340/727
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T - Hemi
2016 Dodge Durango Limited - 3.6
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: amxautox]
#2349862
08/07/17 01:25 AM
08/07/17 01:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046
Colorado Springs
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A short. Fusible link blew? what car??? 70 T/A Challenger 340 with electronic ignition conversion pkg.
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: elmor353]
#2349864
08/07/17 01:26 AM
08/07/17 01:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
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OP
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Colorado Springs
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You say the battery is fully charged? Did you open the hood and check it after you heard the pop? I had a battery explode while trying to start my van years ago. Did the very same thing that you are describing. Thanks, but no. Battery is fine. I actually charged the battery after the lights didn't come on. It's charged and still no power.
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: GTSDart340]
#2349867
08/07/17 01:27 AM
08/07/17 01:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Colorado Springs
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Could be the ammeter wiring at the bulkhead connector. I'll be giving it look! Thanks!
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: amxautox]
#2349874
08/07/17 01:37 AM
08/07/17 01:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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A short. Fusible link blew? what car??? Sounds like that to me. You may have heard the fusible link burn out which they are made to do so the wiring wont burn up if there is a short. And it can kill all power depending on which one burns out. Ron
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: T/A CARe]
#2349875
08/07/17 01:39 AM
08/07/17 01:39 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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If you happen to have any 12V bulb/socket with a pair of wires coming out of it (pigtails) laying around, just bare the insulation off of each of the two ends & ground one end to bare metal on the firewall and wrap the other bare wire around a thin metal probe & stick it in the bulkhead terminal where the main power lead goes in (trace the power from the batt positive lead to the starter relay & it continues on to the bulkhead to that particular terminal). if no light then the FL has popped, if it lights then the open is under the dash (the 2 bulkhead halves coulda lost continuity in that particular male/female brass terminal connection between the two bulkhead halves there on the eng side of the firewall but not likely). if it is the FL then NAPA has a replacement for cheap & I would have someone crimp/solder it in being carefull to wick away the heat from the soldering iron in the process. If the open is under the dash then start with the ammeter terminals as mentioned. keep us updated. EDIT batt neg cable connection to block coulda lost its connection/continuity which would render the system dead like it is but I would not expect a "pop" from that potential.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/07/17 01:53 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: 383man]
#2349884
08/07/17 02:06 AM
08/07/17 02:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
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OP
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Colorado Springs
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A short. Fusible link blew? what car??? Sounds like that to me. You may have heard the fusible link burn out which they are made to do so the wiring wont burn up if there is a short. And it can kill all power depending on which one burns out. Ron Thanks Ron!
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: T/A CARe]
#2349885
08/07/17 02:06 AM
08/07/17 02:06 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
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top fuel
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Phila. Pa.
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Time for a voltmeter / test light. Yeah... I'm kind of afraid of that. I'm no kind of electrical guy and don't really know where to start. I do have buddies that can help. Thanks! You will definately need a multi-meter, with or without your buddies. For simplicities sake, there's basically one wire to follow from the battery to the ignition switch. Its not physically all one wire, there are connections along the way, but that's all you have to trace to see where it burned. There is a simplified diagram from my '67 at the bottom of this page http://www.heritech.org/cuda/Charge.htmlOpen your hood and see if you can follow it to the firewall connector. If the fusible link failed, it will literally be melted away. That's its job. If it didn't then almost certainly something else was the weakest link and failed. Look between the firewall connector and the ignition switch. Thats a little harder for the switches in the steering column. But if you need the wire color, it will be in the '70 shop manual. Most likely black or red at least to the main junction. Next you need your buddies with the multimeter. Because something drew too much power from the battery. Most likely a bare wire touched ground, and most likely one that is not protected by the fusebox.
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#2349886
08/07/17 02:07 AM
08/07/17 02:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046
Colorado Springs
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If you happen to have any 12V bulb/socket with a pair of wires coming out of it (pigtails) laying around, just bare the insulation off of each of the two ends & ground one end to bare metal on the firewall and wrap the other bare wire around a thin metal probe & stick it in the bulkhead terminal where the main power lead goes in (trace the power from the batt positive lead to the starter relay & it continues on to the bulkhead to that particular terminal). if no light then the FL has popped, if it lights then the open is under the dash (the 2 bulkhead halves coulda lost continuity in that particular male/female brass terminal connection between the two bulkhead halves there on the eng side of the firewall but not likely). if it is the FL then NAPA has a replacement for cheap & I would have someone crimp/solder it in being carefull to wick away the heat from the soldering iron in the process. If the open is under the dash then start with the ammeter terminals as mentioned. keep us updated. EDIT batt neg cable connection to block coulda lost its connection/continuity which would render the system dead like it is but I would not expect a "pop" from that potential. This will help me a lot and get started! Thanks Robert!!
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Re: Loud engine bay "pop" now all electrical's dead. Ideas?
[Re: Mattax]
#2349887
08/07/17 02:09 AM
08/07/17 02:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046 Colorado Springs
T/A CARe
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,046
Colorado Springs
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Time for a voltmeter / test light. Yeah... I'm kind of afraid of that. I'm no kind of electrical guy and don't really know where to start. I do have buddies that can help. Thanks! You will definately need a multi-meter, with or without your buddies. For simplicities sake, there's basically one wire to follow from the battery to the ignition switch. Its not physically all one wire, there are connections along the way, but that's all you have to trace to see where it burned. There is a simplified diagram from my '67 at the bottom of this page http://www.heritech.org/cuda/Charge.htmlOpen your hood and see if you can follow it to the firewall connector. If the fusible link failed, it will literally be melted away. That's its job. If it didn't then almost certainly something else was the weakest link and failed. Look between the firewall connector and the ignition switch. Thats a little harder for the switches in the steering column. But if you need the wire color, it will be in the '70 shop manual. Most likely black or red at least to the main junction. Next you need your buddies with the multimeter. Because something drew too much power from the battery. Most likely a bare wire touched ground, and most likely one that is not protected by the fusebox. Thanks Mattax! I'll be getting on it!
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