Many years ago Mopar put out a warning about putting Fram filters on the Cummins it would void the warranty. Must be a reason. I only use Wix or Napa gold's or Fleet Guard on my vehicles

Just change the filter,disable the ignition,crank the engine until you see oil pressure on the gauge,reconnect ignition,and then cross your fingers and take it for a cruise.
You don't have a Milodon external system do you? I have seen more than one dual line system lose its prime after an oil change

Gus

Add me to the list of having experienced first hand no oil pressure on a mopar BB following a oil+filter change with a FRAM filter. This was at least 10 years ago. Have never purchased any FRAM product of any type since.

I'll get another filter and pull the distributor and see if it will build pressure. Sure hope I didn't spin a bearing on the startup!

Last time I used a Fram PH8A for my DD, I was in a pinch, all the store had, so I figured what the hell, I know it was against my better judgement, lasted 1 day, the filter case ruptured just enough to cause a slow/moderate leak, luckily I got it home in time before losing all my oil/pressure...LAST time for a FRAM filter

As fourgearsavoy said, do you run an external oil system ?

After seeing a cut open fram filter with the paperboard ends glued on crooked, I will never use one again. Cheaply made. My brother said it looked like a kindergartner made it!!

So did the new oil filter fix it?

Had this happen on my 360 one time. Changed oil put a fram filter on it, fired up, no oil pressure. Loosen the filter and there was oil there, so put on a MOPAR filter and fired up and had oil pressure. No more FRAM filters for me....

I haven't had a chance to work at it yet. Will try to get this figured out later this week.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!

I wouldn't pull the distributor yet.
just swap filters and pull the coil plug and crank for a little bit to see if it moves the gauge.
if it doesn't then do it. but if it does, it saves you the trouble of marking everything to line up again.

Doubt you spun a bearing on that short a run.I had oil pump go bad on BBs and drove a few miles home with no pressure.Put thousands of miles on after I fixed it.Rocky

Si Senor

Dang! You're luckier than me, I only ran mine at idle for maybe two minutes total after the oil light (okay, never went out after a cold start at work) came on and developed a light knocking. I drove it that way until I got the 440 assembled.

Robert

Crap filter quality really stinks now days. I had someone in my garage mocking my K-mart oil filters. I bought a case of filters back in high school 30 years ago and misplaced about half dozen filters. Finally found them in a box of old parts. I don't know who made them, but said made in the USA and look to be as good as a WIX when I cut last one apart. I hope 500ciBee finds the problem.

Got a new Mobil 1 filter. I pulled the distributor and used a 5/16 hex rod to prime the pump. Not getting any pressure on the gauge. How much resistance should the pump have? I'm using a cordless drill and it has no problem turning the pump. I ran the drill for probably a few minutes.

You are running the drill in reverse aren't you?

If the pump builds prime, it should try to rip the drill out of your hand. Not sure a cordless drill will do it...not for long anyway.

You should be spinning it counter-clockwise like Stumpy said.

The question about what type of oil system is being used still hasn't been answered.

When the pump builds pressure the drill should about stop.

I lost an engine because I failed to recognize trouble when I primed the pump with my drill and the drill just kept on spinning even after the oil light went out. The engine lasted about 4000 miles before #1 rod bearing and #1 main bearing were worn enough it sounded like a Diesel.

So if the drill doesn't bog down you have a real problem.

R.