Not to sound stupid but why other than some gazillion horsepower deal that needs towed back after a run is it now a "thing" to hit neutral at end of a run? I bracket raced a 9 second car for 20 years and never had to do this. Building a new car now and its getting a th400, I already have Ried case and bell mocked up in chassis and looking at shifters, and valve bodies, and wondering if I need this? Car is getting Gen3 hemi with small whipple or procharger blower and will be street/strip drag week type car. 1000 hp max looking to hit mid to high 8's. I'm thinking all I need is good reverse manual valve body with transbreak and a good a PPP shifter. Am I missing something? Are there applications at this level that need to click it off and hit Neutral after a pass?

I wouldnt waste my time on one.. it isnt worth
the cost to just get your rpms down at the
end of a pass... I let the rpm slow the car

Used mostly in aluminum rod motors to limit the motor down on the rods.

And for spark plug readings i.e. shift to Neutral at the end of the run and shut down the engine.

My Last hemi car had a significant drop in oil pressure after a full pass while hard on the brakes until some of the oil ran down and wasn't slammed to the front of the pan. I know there are ways to correct this with baffling, but why correct an issue just to run a motor during deceleration. There isn't much gain by running your motor during hard deceleration, and it can be hard on parts. Sure people have survived for years without shutting off the motor and using a clean neutral, but it is a better way to go. Personally if I was starting from scratch on a new build I would go clean neutral, if you already have the parts its probably not worth the expense to go the other way.

In this video you can hear my engine come down from 9100 RPM instantly.. if I don't go to neutral it keeps the RPMs way up there for quite a while....
https://youtu.be/4PccB7ujcPA

Closing the throttle from trap speed is the absolute worst tension load the rods ever see. Passing over TDC at 29" of vacuum tries to pull the caps off, bend the pins, etc.
Luckily your stall speed catches some of it.

forgive my ignorance here, but, if the engine isn't turning the pump, how is the transmission getting it's lubrication while the vehicle is moving?

on the trans thing there's enough lube for shutdown.... heck even in Vegas we often make the turn and coast a good 1/8th mile or more before we fire up. I've never seen one bit of accelerated wear on the rear support.

I've had a clean N trans brake since the W8 mill would show an oil psi drop on some of the shorter tracks I visit. Guess I could have installed and plumbed an accumulator, but I chose just to shut her down.

That thing sounds beautiful

This. Your engine will thank you.

thank you.. it has been a fun project...