WE NEED HELP WE HAVE HAD 3 80S 360 MOTORS THAT HAVE SPUN #3 ROD BEARING ON ALL 3 MOTORS HAS ANY ONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND HOW DO YOU FIX IT 3 DIFFERENT MOTOR SAME ROD OR IS THERE A OILING PROBLEM WITH 360 BLOCKS THANKS CAN REPLY HERE OR JTGTSS56@GMAIL.COM

More info needed:

What oil pump you using (standard, high volume, high pressure)
How high are engines being reved?
Stock cranks and rods?

HIGH VOLUME 6000 RPM'S AND SCAT RODS - 2 MOTORS WERE STOCK EVERYTHING AND 3RD MOTOR BRAND NEW WITH THE NEW RODS PISTONS AND ALL AND ALL 3 ROD BEARINGS WERE BLACK

AND ALL OTHER BEARINGS WERE GREAT SHAPE

It just might be your running the bearings way too tight.


If your using the same crankshaft, have you given it a good look?

Junkyard 360s see 6k and dont hurt themselves.

So id look at the parts your re using.

3 TOTALY DIFFERENT MOTORS NEVER USED ANYTHING FROM OTHER MOTORS AND CANT BELIEVE ALL 3 RODS WERE TO TIGHT ON 3 DIFF MOTORS

go to www.moparchat.com & scroll down to & click on "circle track chat" then read thru Sanborns' "oiling" thread that is in a sticky at the top of the page. It'll take you a good hour.

Too much oil being bypassed to your CAPS LOCK.

I MAY HAVE ACCIDENTALLY HIT THE CAP BUTTON BUT AT LEAST IM NOT AN ASS LIKE YOU AND THE OTHER ASS THAT HAD TO CRY ABOUT NOT LIKE YOU CAN HEAR THEM

thanks rapid robert

only used the stock parts in motor never used them after it broke and 3rd motor was all brand new part inside it

Ok, try this.... What is the usage of these, drag race, prolonged high rpm runs, ect?

Mellow driving or beating the living heck out of them?

The more info you give the better the answers will be to help you out. Check sizes carefully and get them .002 plus, clean, clean, and clean again. Stock parts will easy run in the 11's with zero issues and into the 9's with more care and better parts. How fast do you want to go and on what budget?

You're welcome bro. there's been a problem with very high RPM's with SB's that the oil rushed by the #4 main (which is close to the filter boss) to fast to make that 90 deg turn so that rod journals on either side/fed by that main get starved.

Would that do the same for the number 3 rod like he mentioned? Maybe all need "work" to make the turn.
I'm thinkng once there's a pressure head the turn could be made, but if no backup, open up front, it would be hard to make that turn into each, front one being the worst. Oil is driven back to front on a small block right? Unlike a BB going front to back, where 5-6-7-8 are the unlucky ones. Just thinking.

drag strip only turning 6000 rpm's

thanks we had 0015 to 2.0 on last motor that was all brand new but block and heads running 11.86 112 mph

I ran a large line from the external remote filter back to/thru the rear china wall & up all the way to the front of the pass (main) horizontle gallery to fix the velocity problem then I got sidetracked with the head gasket issues. If I can find a pic of it I will post it, EDIT not sure if the next one forward (#3) would be severely affected, from what I gather, no.

Tighter than I like to go but that's up to you. Better big than small is all I will say. My Sons .030 over 360 run 10.50's in his 3150 pound Duster with NOTHING but a high volume oil pump shifting at 6400 rpm.
My engines build are cleaner than my house. (I hate house cleaning) but spend hours cleaning a block and deburring before a build.

Very true, my street thrasher has zero oiling mods, just very good machine work and all bearings at .003, I just checked a vid and with a rolling burnout and letting it run out I was over 7k for 22 seconds straight and when I replaced the bearings that had five seasons on them I should of saved them for a beater motor.

Maybe with a high end crank and a rigid race block id tempt fate and run .002 but with our old motors .003 and good machine work has been the norm for a reason.