Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: lilred]
#2322763
06/17/17 09:06 PM
06/17/17 09:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272 Northern Calyfornua
Sxrxrnr
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272
Northern Calyfornua
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Still to hear what happens with clutch in, going straight from neutral to reverse with engine running at idle and perhaps say 1,200 rpm.
Additional test. Place in reverse clutch on floor, engine running, transmission.gears are all stopped. Move to neutral, wait a couple of seconds leaving clutch pedal on the floor, move back to reverse. Grind or no grind? If grind, either clutch drag or pilot bearing drag. 40 seconds for all of above.
The answers to these might/would eliminate much irrelevant speculation.
Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 06/17/17 10:05 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: lilred]
#2323035
06/18/17 01:19 PM
06/18/17 01:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514
So. Burlington, Vt.
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Haven't worked on one of these with a std trans in many years.......but.......why does the starter have to come out to check the air gap?
I thought you'd just pull the inspection cover off the bottom.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: Sxrxrnr]
#2323073
06/18/17 02:33 PM
06/18/17 02:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,526 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,526
Omaha Ne
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Still to hear what happens with clutch in, going straight from neutral to reverse with engine running at idle and perhaps say 1,200 rpm.
Additional test. Place in reverse clutch on floor, engine running, transmission.gears are all stopped. Move to neutral, wait a couple of seconds leaving clutch pedal on the floor, move back to reverse. Grind or no grind? If grind, either clutch drag or pilot bearing drag. 40 seconds for all of above.
The answers to these might/would eliminate much irrelevant speculation. Good ideas
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: lilred]
#2323125
06/18/17 03:44 PM
06/18/17 03:44 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272 Northern Calyfornua
Sxrxrnr
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,272
Northern Calyfornua
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Could clutch disc when released, not move freely on transmission main spline. I had always checked for this many years ago when was still replacing my clutches, did so before bolting pressure plate in place. More than once had found a problem,,,,and a couple of times with a disc not runing true when spun on a smooth bench top surface.
I will post this thought on the other thread of the day suggesting another clutch problem.
Z bar bushings OK?
Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 06/18/17 04:05 PM.
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: Sxrxrnr]
#2323554
06/19/17 12:26 PM
06/19/17 12:26 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 172 katakan
lilred
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 172
katakan
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Yep, starter another issue, drive/bendix did not kicking in once in a while.
Last edited by lilred; 06/19/17 12:27 PM.
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: Stroker]
#2328682
06/29/17 04:10 PM
06/29/17 04:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246 Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
rumblefish72
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246
Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
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What causes the bent clutch fork bracket? I have a bent one on a Tremec 5 speed w/QuickTime bellhousing. I'm working my way through a bent clutch fork bracket in the new QuickTime Bellhousing I recently installed. I had just put everything back together for the first time and went out for a cruise. The clutch was operating properly and I was happy. But then I depressed the clutch and I could feel something give way. Fortunately, I wasn't too far from home and I limped back in 2nd gear. I'm running a Centerforce Dual Friction setup with a diaphragm pressure plate that has pretty light release pressure. I got the car up on jack stands and looked in the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing and could see that the pivot bracket had folded over (see picture). All I could think of was that I had installed the wrong offset pivot bracket and every time I hit the clutch, the pivot bracket wasn't lined up with the detent in the fork and the pressure was trying to bend the bracket out so it would fall back into the detent. So I took it all apart and double checked my spacing ... it was good. After careful examination of my throwout bearing, I came to the conclusion that when I inserted the clutch fork, it only snapped into one side of the retaining clip on the throwout bearing. The other side never clipped in. This caused the whole assy to be misaligned and after just a little use, the pivot bracket folded over. It was always a frustrating experience trying to get that clutch fork properly inserted and the access hole in the QuickTime is smaller than the one in the Lakewood making proper fork insertion even more difficult. I bent the bracket back to normal and tried to insert the clutch fork with everything on the bench. After several attempts, I was never able to get both clips on the throwout bearing to properly clip in. I had a spare new throwout bearing so I looked at that one side to side with the one that I took out of the car. The retaining clips didn't really line up very well with the fingers on the clutch fork with either throwout bearing which would make it hard to get both to clip in when installing the fork. I tweaked the clips a bit for better alignment and then tried installing the fork with everything out of the car. I was successful on 3 out of 4 attempts to insert the clutch fork. The pivot brackets that were supplied by QuickTime were pretty flimsy (see pic #2) in comparison to the one that was on the Lakewood that I was replacing. I'm going to fab up a new pivot bracket out of some heavy angle iron that I have and then when I get it clipped in, I'll use my video camera borescope thingie to make sure both clips on the throwout bearing are actually engaged. I think that all this aggravation is trying to get me to dump my z-bar and linkage for a hydraulic throwout bearing but I just don't have the cash right now to do that upgrade.
Last edited by rumblefish72; 06/29/17 04:13 PM.
1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: TJP]
#2328924
06/30/17 12:07 AM
06/30/17 12:07 AM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 298 mt. pleasant, PA
Diplomat440
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 298
mt. pleasant, PA
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I have the same issue with my Diplomat. Sometimes hard to shift into first from neutral. I've blocked the pedal to the floor, it had plenty of air gap and the disc spun very freely when i crawled underneath. I really thought i was having a clutch dragging or even pilot bearing issue, but it doesnt seem to be the case.
I've got bell housing runout down to .003 or .004. Trans only has a few thousand miles on rebuild, Centerforce DF clutc, Sta-lube GL4 75w90, shifter is only a few years old.
The weird thing is that it usually only does it when the car is pointed down hill. Is it possible that the disc is just laying against the fly wheel and grabbing enough to spin the input shaft a little sometimes?
Have you tried 2nd or 3rd under those conditions ?? I really doubt the disc would be dragging when pointed downhill. Usually when I've pulled it into second when it didn't want to go into first, it was a little stubborn but not nearly as stiff as first. Third, im not sure, never took note of it giving me any trouble. If i let off the brakes and let it roll forward a tiny bit as i put it in gear it'll go right in. Its just weird, because it seems like it only really does it at a few certain stop lights around town that are down hill. Can't say it does it at the uphill ones.
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: rumblefish72]
#2338630
07/17/17 09:26 PM
07/17/17 09:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,271 central IL reg Nov 18, 1999
Stroker
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,271
central IL reg Nov 18, 1999
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What causes the bent clutch fork bracket? I have a bent one on a Tremec 5 speed w/QuickTime bellhousing. I'm working my way through a bent clutch fork bracket in the new QuickTime Bellhousing I recently installed. I had just put everything back together for the first time and went out for a cruise. The clutch was operating properly and I was happy. But then I depressed the clutch and I could feel something give way. Fortunately, I wasn't too far from home and I limped back in 2nd gear. I'm running a Centerforce Dual Friction setup with a diaphragm pressure plate that has pretty light release pressure. I got the car up on jack stands and looked in the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing and could see that the pivot bracket had folded over (see picture). All I could think of was that I had installed the wrong offset pivot bracket and every time I hit the clutch, the pivot bracket wasn't lined up with the detent in the fork and the pressure was trying to bend the bracket out so it would fall back into the detent. So I took it all apart and double checked my spacing ... it was good. After careful examination of my throwout bearing, I came to the conclusion that when I inserted the clutch fork, it only snapped into one side of the retaining clip on the throwout bearing. The other side never clipped in. This caused the whole assy to be misaligned and after just a little use, the pivot bracket folded over. It was always a frustrating experience trying to get that clutch fork properly inserted and the access hole in the QuickTime is smaller than the one in the Lakewood making proper fork insertion even more difficult. I bent the bracket back to normal and tried to insert the clutch fork with everything on the bench. After several attempts, I was never able to get both clips on the throwout bearing to properly clip in. I had a spare new throwout bearing so I looked at that one side to side with the one that I took out of the car. The retaining clips didn't really line up very well with the fingers on the clutch fork with either throwout bearing which would make it hard to get both to clip in when installing the fork. I tweaked the clips a bit for better alignment and then tried installing the fork with everything out of the car. I was successful on 3 out of 4 attempts to insert the clutch fork. The pivot brackets that were supplied by QuickTime were pretty flimsy (see pic #2) in comparison to the one that was on the Lakewood that I was replacing. I'm going to fab up a new pivot bracket out of some heavy angle iron that I have and then when I get it clipped in, I'll use my video camera borescope thingie to make sure both clips on the throwout bearing are actually engaged. I think that all this aggravation is trying to get me to dump my z-bar and linkage for a hydraulic throwout bearing but I just don't have the cash right now to do that upgrade. Bloody 'ell, I just saw this. Which type fork pivot bracket was in your QuickTime? The butcher shop that put my trans in used the A body bracket. In a B body. In your pic, the B/E body bracket is on the right. Were there spacers under your bracket?
Last edited by Stroker; 07/17/17 09:33 PM.
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Re: A833 18spline, hard to put into 1st after being in neutral
[Re: Stroker]
#2343562
07/26/17 10:27 AM
07/26/17 10:27 AM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246 Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
rumblefish72
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246
Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
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What causes the bent clutch fork bracket? I have a bent one on a Tremec 5 speed w/QuickTime bellhousing. I'm working my way through a bent clutch fork bracket in the new QuickTime Bellhousing I recently installed. I had just put everything back together for the first time and went out for a cruise. The clutch was operating properly and I was happy. But then I depressed the clutch and I could feel something give way. Fortunately, I wasn't too far from home and I limped back in 2nd gear. I'm running a Centerforce Dual Friction setup with a diaphragm pressure plate that has pretty light release pressure. I got the car up on jack stands and looked in the clutch fork hole in the bellhousing and could see that the pivot bracket had folded over (see picture). All I could think of was that I had installed the wrong offset pivot bracket and every time I hit the clutch, the pivot bracket wasn't lined up with the detent in the fork and the pressure was trying to bend the bracket out so it would fall back into the detent. So I took it all apart and double checked my spacing ... it was good. After careful examination of my throwout bearing, I came to the conclusion that when I inserted the clutch fork, it only snapped into one side of the retaining clip on the throwout bearing. The other side never clipped in. This caused the whole assy to be misaligned and after just a little use, the pivot bracket folded over. It was always a frustrating experience trying to get that clutch fork properly inserted and the access hole in the QuickTime is smaller than the one in the Lakewood making proper fork insertion even more difficult. I bent the bracket back to normal and tried to insert the clutch fork with everything on the bench. After several attempts, I was never able to get both clips on the throwout bearing to properly clip in. I had a spare new throwout bearing so I looked at that one side to side with the one that I took out of the car. The retaining clips didn't really line up very well with the fingers on the clutch fork with either throwout bearing which would make it hard to get both to clip in when installing the fork. I tweaked the clips a bit for better alignment and then tried installing the fork with everything out of the car. I was successful on 3 out of 4 attempts to insert the clutch fork. The pivot brackets that were supplied by QuickTime were pretty flimsy (see pic #2) in comparison to the one that was on the Lakewood that I was replacing. I'm going to fab up a new pivot bracket out of some heavy angle iron that I have and then when I get it clipped in, I'll use my video camera borescope thingie to make sure both clips on the throwout bearing are actually engaged. I think that all this aggravation is trying to get me to dump my z-bar and linkage for a hydraulic throwout bearing but I just don't have the cash right now to do that upgrade. Bloody 'ell, I just saw this. Which type fork pivot bracket was in your QuickTime? The butcher shop that put my trans in used the A body bracket. In a B body. In your pic, the B/E body bracket is on the right. Were there spacers under your bracket? I'm continuing this discussion with "Stroker" in PMs so as not to hijack the thread. If anyone is interested, PM me and I'll add you to the conversation. -rumblefish72
1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ
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